Polystyrene insulation - specifications. Advantages of using expanded polystyrene as a heater - What is better for expanded clay or expanded polystyrene under a screed

September 2, 2016
Specialization: Capital construction works (laying the foundation, erecting walls, constructing the roof, etc.). Internal construction works (laying of internal communications, rough and fine finishing). Hobbies: mobile communications, high tech, computer technology, programming.

One of the most inexpensive and sufficient effective ways thermal insulation is the insulation of walls with polystyrene from the outside. I often do this kind of work for my clients and have never been dissatisfied. The installation technology is so simple that you can do everything you need with your own hands, saving a certain amount of money.

In today's material, I, taking this opportunity, want to consider in detail the pros and cons of polystyrene as a heater, as well as describe the sequence of actions for warming a home using this material.

Polystyrene as insulation

The term "polystyrene" refers to a popular insulation - polystyrene foam, or, as it is more correctly called, polystyrene foam. It is obtained from the polymer mass by foaming it in a foaming agent. For this, a steam generator is used, under the influence of which polystyrene granules increase 50 times and are filled with air.

Material Features

As I already mentioned, polystyrene consists of a large number of closed cells filled with air. The latter has a low coefficient of thermal conductivity and, being in a stationary state (in the absence of convection), just plays the role of an insulator that stores thermal energy in the room.

Depending on the brand of raw materials used, foaming technology and some other production features, polystyrene plates of various density and strength are obtained. Moreover, these parameters, as you understand, are inversely related. The denser the foam, the harder it is, but the worse it retains heat.

Insulation of the house with polystyrene can be carried out with plates of various strengths (depending on which structural elements are thermally insulated). In some cases, you can use (and I have done this more than once) foam of low strength, which is then protected from external influences with a decorative material or cement screed.

But there are times when this is not possible. For example, if you perform floor insulation with polystyrene, you should expect that the insulation will be subjected to increased dynamic load. Therefore, either you need to use dense material, or mount it wireframe(between pre-set lags).

To figure out when and what kind of polystyrene foam should be used, I propose to consider the most important characteristics material that are important for the master performing the insulation.

Specifications

I placed the main parameters of polystyrene in the illustration below. Check them out, and then I will talk about them in more detail.

Now in more detail:

1. Thermal conductivity. One of the most important parameters, on which it directly depends on how effectively polystyrene will perform the tasks assigned to it for the thermal insulation of buildings.
   For insulation, the most commonly used material is PSB-S-25, the density of which is 25 kg per cubic meter. The thermal conductivity coefficient of this material is 0.038 W/(m*K). To illustrate this number, I will give a diagram that indicates how thick the enclosing structures should be from various materials to securely keep the heat inside the room.

1. Soundproof and windproof. I'll start with the latter, no matter how fragile polystyrene foam is, it does not need additional wind protection. Therefore, it is often used as part of a hinged insulating facade system.

As for soundproofing, everything is not so simple. Foam cells have a closed structure, so they absorb sound waves very poorly. It is inefficient to use polystyrene as an independent soundproofing.

1. Water absorption. Here again I return to the closed cell structure. Due to this, the material practically does not absorb water. In direct contact with liquid, the PSB-S-25 insulation board will absorb about 1% of water from its own volume.

Almost the same is the case with the diffusion of water vapor, that is, vapor permeability. The walls insulated with polystyrene foam will not "breathe", so it will accumulate inside the premises a large number of water vapor generated by human activity.

In order for the microclimate inside the rooms to be comfortable, it is necessary to design powerful (preferably forced) ventilation.

1. The effect of temperature. It all depends on the duration of exposure to the insulation. For example, expanded polystyrene can withstand heating up to 110 degrees Celsius, but for a very short time. Therefore, it can be covered with hot bituminous mastics.

But if long-term operation is expected in conditions high temperature, then the latter should not rise above the mark of 85 degrees Celsius. That is why the foam, when installed on the outer surfaces of the walls, protects decorative materials or cement screed.

As for negative temperatures, expanded polystyrene retains its integrity when cooled down to -180 degrees.

1. natural factors. Expanded polystyrene does not tolerate prolonged exposure to X-ray and ultraviolet radiation. But if you are unlikely to encounter the first, then the second affects the insulation almost all year round in clear weather.

The sun's rays destroy the foam. Moreover, they heat the surface of the material to a high temperature, as a result of which it begins to release chemical compounds harmful to humans.

Therefore, open outdoor installation this heater. It must be protected with a cement screed or external cladding.

1. Fire resistance. Polystyrene belongs to the flammability class G3 and G4. That is, it is a very flammable material. Yes, you yourself could see this more than once if you watched TV reports about completely burned-out high-rise buildings insulated with polystyrene foam.

In addition to high combustibility, the material contributes to the further spread of the flame and, during a fire, releases combustion products hazardous to humans into the surrounding air.

Therefore, for private construction (insulation), it is necessary to use a heater, to which fire retardant is added during production. Such material is marked with the letter "C". The presence of a flame retardant does not mean that the foam will not burn, but in this case, the chemical will stop the spread of the flame, making it possible to evacuate or eliminate the source of ignition.

1. Life time. I can say this briefly. If you choose the right material and follow the technology of its production, then the foam will last as long as the house itself, which is insulated with it.

Home insulation technology using polystyrene

I hope that the above is enough to decide on the possibility (or impossibility) of using polystyrene to insulate your own home. Now - step-by-step instruction, which will help you independently perform all the necessary actions.

I operate in the following way:

1. Preparing surfaces for insulation. This is one of the important stages of work, which in no case should be neglected.

First you need to dismantle decorative trim outer wall surfaces. Especially if they are painted with airtight oil paint, which will help to accumulate moisture inside the insulation layer.

Also at this stage I repair the surface of the walls. Cracks and cracks close up mounting foam or mortar, knock down potholes and architectural decorations with a perforator. If the wall has too significant differences in height, then I plaster it along the lighthouses.

As a result, I get a flat (perhaps imperfectly) wall, cleaned of all debris and primed with two layers of a penetrating primer. The latter is needed to improve the adhesive properties of the mineral surface to the foam adhesive used.

1. I install ebbs and window sills, insulate the slopes of window openings. Here special difficulties No, except for a few small things.

First, the ebb or window sill that is attached to the window frame must be so long that it protrudes beyond the insulation layer (it will be installed later). It turns out that the length of the window sill should be equal to the distance from the window to the wall border plus 10 cm (insulation) + 1 cm (glue) + 4 cm (overhang outside the wall).

Secondly, when insulating the slopes, you need to glue the foam sheets so that they protrude over the edge at a distance of 1 cm. Trust my experience, then it will be easier to join the main layer of insulation with the thermal insulation of the slopes. I forgot to say that for slopes you can use foam with a thickness of 2-3 cm.

1. I glue the foam to the wall. I move on to this stage after I have finished with all the slopes without exception.

As a material, I use foam with a density of 25 kg per cubic meter with fire-fighting additives. It is marked PSB-S-25. In addition, you need a starting galvanized profile that will hold the first row of insulation during installation.

First, at the bottom of the wall (near the foundation), I fix the profile with screws and dowels. It must be installed strictly horizontally. If using several parts, leave a gap of 2 mm between them to compensate for thermal expansion.

Then I spread glue on the wall. I do it like this:

• first, using a wide spatula, I apply the solution to a surface area that corresponds in size to one sheet of insulation (usually a meter per meter);
• then, using a spatula with teeth, I evenly distribute the composition along the wall.

If the wall has drops, then you need to put the glue not in a continuous layer, but in “blots”. And not on the wall, but on the foam. This will allow, after mounting the polystyrene on the wall, to level the insulation sheet using a water level.

Be sure to see that there are gaps between the “blots” through which excess air will come out from under the plate. But the solution should be enough so that at least 40% of the sheet area is covered with it.

Having spread the glue, I lean the styrofoam slab tightly against the wall and level it with a level. The adjacent sheet is installed in the same way.

In this case, it is necessary to ensure that the gaps between them are as small as possible. And the upper rows are glued with offset seams. That is, the sheets of insulation will be located in you, as it were, in a checkerboard pattern.

After gluing the polystyrene to the wall, I stop working for 1-2 days so that the adhesive is completely dry.

1. I fix the insulation with the help of "fungi". We are talking about plastic dowels with a metal core and wide caps, with which the insulation layer is fixed to the wall.

First, using a puncher, right through the foam, I drill a hole with a diameter of 10 mm in the wall, where I then insert the “fungus”. Then I hammer a metal core into it, which firmly fixes the fittings in the recess. Moreover, it is necessary to make sure that the “fungus” hat is slightly recessed into the insulation layer.

On one sheet of insulation you need to use 6-7 fungi. In this case, the fastening should be 5-10 cm from the edge of the sheet.

Sometimes it happens that it is not possible to completely hammer the core. Nothing wrong with that. You can simply cut off the excess part with wire cutters, this will not affect the strength of the insulating layer in any way.

1. I seal the joints between the sheets of insulation. For this, mounting foam is used. Choose a variety that is neutral to the Styrofoam you are using.

All joints should be foamed, especially if their thickness exceeds 2-3 mm. Very large gaps (more than a centimeter) I recommend first sealing with narrow strips of foam, and only then sealing with foam.

The sealing composition hardens within 5 hours. After that, all excess foam must be cut off with a clerical knife. I also recommend simultaneously correcting all the joints and irregularities of the insulating layer with a polystyrene grater.

It is important to take care of the mushroom caps. They need to be puttied with an adhesive solution that was used to mount the foam on the walls. After drying, these areas should also be sanded with a grater to get a smooth surface.

1. I reinforce the corners with perforated mesh corners. If you didn’t have any at hand, I will tell you how you can reinforce the corners of the foam using a regular fiberglass reinforcing mesh for outdoor use.

So, I take a mesh with a density of 160 grams per square meter and cut from it strips 30 cm wide. The length will be equal to the height of the corners or window openings. Then I fold the mesh in half.

Then, using a spatula, I apply an adhesive solution 3 mm thick to the corner being processed at a distance of 7 cm from the corner in each direction. Then I put a reinforcing mesh on this glue and smooth it with a special device - a spatula bent at a right angle. This must be done until the mesh is immersed in glue.

1. Glue reinforcing mesh. To do this, I apply a layer of a 3-mm layer of glue on the surface of the foam, into which I sink a fiberglass mesh.

After that, an additional layer of mortar is applied on top and leveled with a spatula until the reinforcing layer is completely hidden. As soon as the composition hardens, you can grout. It is done using a plastic grater, on which sandpaper is put on.

1. I apply and rub a leveling layer. At this stage, I already act with a large spatula and apply thin layer solution, which is needed to level small surface defects.

Grouting is carried out after drying according to the scheme described above.

1. Ground mineral surface. To do this, I use a penetrating primer Ceresit. I apply the composition in two layers with intermediate drying.

Then it remains only to complete the finish. I personally prefer to plaster the facade with decorative plaster.

Summary

As you can see, polystyrene is a good insulation, but not without some drawbacks. However, they are fully offset by the fact that the price of this heat insulator is one of the lowest on the market. But if you are still interested in alternatives, you can check out the video in this article, which describes some of them.

And I would like to ask you if you have met with such a phenomenon as cracks on the facade - insulated with polystyrene or XPS - under cement screed? And if so, how did you get rid of these defects? Post your answers in the comments to the article.

September 2, 2016

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Styrofoam- this is a modern insulation, which consists of many bubbles placed in thin shells of polystyrene in a ratio of 2% polystyrene to 98% air.

The result is material like foam, due to which it was called polystyrene foam.

The air is hermetically sealed inside the bubbles, so the material retains heat well and is one of the most popular heaters. It is used for thermal insulation of roofs, floors, ceilings and walls of buildings and various structures.

Depending on the production technology of PPS (expanded polystyrene) subdivided into 4 types:

• Non-pressed or regular expanded polystyrene - PSB. Most often used for wall insulation. The modified version is designated PSB-S. This material is less flammable. It is produced with different densities - from 15 to 50 kg/m³. In the common people, non-pressed polystyrene foam is often called, but in fact, these are materials of different properties and characteristics obtained from the same raw material.

• Extruded or extruded polystyrene foam - XPS. It is much stronger than PSB and surpasses it in all respects, although it costs more. At correct installation its term of use is up to 50 years. Has high compressive strength. It is placed under concrete floors or cement-sand screeds.

• Press - PS-1 or PS-4.
• autoclaved.

Options 3 and 4 were not widely used.

Thanks to its strength and practical zero water absorption EPPS is best used for warming the basement of buildings, as well as roofs, walls, facades and floors of the first floors.

He possesses the best thermal insulation properties compared to conventional PPP due to its greater density.

Regular PPP It is used for warming the foundations of buildings, apartments, balconies, wagons, as well as for thermal and waterproofing of underground communication lines.

Indicator values thermal conductivity, vapor permeability, deformation under compressive load and others for extruded and conventional PPS are specified in GOST 56148-2014 and GOST 32310-2012.

As for the manufacturers of PPS, then the most popular the European companies "Polimeri Europa", "Nova Chemicals", "Styrochem", "BASF", as well as the Russian companies "Penoplex" and "TechnoNIKOL" are considered.

Sheet dimensions non-pressed polystyrene foam - BSP with a density of 15, 25, 35 kg / m³ are prescribed in GOST 15588-86. The value of the sheet length varies in the range from 900 to 5000 mm, width - 500-1300 mm with an interval of 50 mm. Thickness - from 20 to 500 mm in increments of 10 units.

Most often companies offer sheets standard sizes:

• 100cm×100cm;
• 100cm×50cm;
• 200cm×100cm.

Sheet thickness can be: 10, 20, 30, 40, 50 and 100 mm.

dew point for insulation

Dew point- This is an indicator of the temperature at which condensation begins to fall on the surface. This point can be in various places - inside, outside or closer to any surface.

When installing expanded polystyrene plates outside the house with a properly selected thickness, the dew point will be in the insulation. In this case, the wall will always remain dry. And if the PPS was taken with a smaller thickness than it should be according to the heat engineering calculation, then dew point may be:

• Between the central part of the wall and the outer. In this case, the wall will almost always be dry.
• Closer to the inner surface. With the onset of cold weather, dew will fall.
• Right on the inside. AT winter period the wall will be regularly wet.

Insulation of the walls of the PPS from the inside can not always be carried out, as it requires many conditions:

• Ventilation installations in accordance with all norms for a particular room.
• Proper operation of the heating system.
• The presence of insulation for all structures of the house.
• The wall must always remain dry.
• And others.

Advantages and disadvantages of the material

Styrofoam has several advantages such as low thermal conductivity and vapor permeability, does not absorb moisture, durable, light weight, easy to process and install, inexpensive.

Consider the main indicators that make the material very popular and in demand for warming houses and cottages.

Low thermal conductivity- this is the most important indicator when choosing a heater. Conventional polystyrene foam has a value of 0.032 to 0.044 watts per meter per Kelvin, and the greater the density of the material, the lower the thermal conductivity. The extruded version has a density of 45 kg / m³ and has the lowest thermal conductivity of all PPS (according to GOST 31924-2011).

Does not absorb moisture. Extruded PPS absorbs only 0.4% upon contact with moisture, as it is made by extrusion. Conventional polystyrene foam has a rate of 4%.

Low vapor permeability. For conventional PPS, the vapor permeability is zero, and for extruded PPS, it is 0.01 kg per meter-hour-Pascal. This can be explained by the fact that the formation of XPS occurs by cutting, and steam penetrates into the cells through these cuts. And ordinary polystyrene foam is most often not cut.

Strength. PPS withstands significant loads, and extruded PPS is more durable due to a stronger bond between molecules. The static bending strength index for XPS is 0.4-1 kg per cm², and for a conventional one it is 0.02-0.2 kg per cm².

Styrofoam withstands strong compression and significant tearing force.

Ease of processing and ease of installation. Expanded polystyrene is perfectly cut with a paint knife, so the installation of plates is not difficult.

There are few cons of the material, but still they are:

• Harm to health. At first glance, the material is considered environmentally friendly, so freon, which destroys ozone layer Earth. But PPS in air begins to oxidize, while releasing harmful substances- benzene, formaldehyde and ethyl alcohol.
• combustibility. Many manufacturers claim that the material is not subject to combustion due to the flame retardants included in its composition. But this contradicts GOST 30244-94, in which PPP is classified as the most dangerous substance with 3 and 4 flammability classes. Experiments show that PPS with a flame retardant burns no worse than polystyrene foam without them. Plus, the flame retardant properties become worse over time.
• Destruction under the influence of UV rays and precipitation. Expanded polystyrene does not tolerate direct sunlight, they make PPS less elastic and durable. It is also necessary to cover it with plaster or other material from snow and rain. In this case, it will last at least 30 years.

Cutting at home

Cut PPS in an apartment setting does not present much difficulty. The use of a conventional knife for these purposes is ineffective, since the material crumbles easily.

Better apply painting knife. It is necessary to draw a line with a ruler on 2 sides of the sheet, and make an incision with a knife. Then it remains to take the sheet and break it along the incision.

Can use a string- heated nichrome wire. It cuts material very well. But you will need to assemble a small machine with a transformer, a stretched thread and a spring.

Advice: for cutting polystyrene foam at home, you can use a grinder with a thin disc for metal. And with foam plastic with a width of more than 80 cm, you can use a hacksaw for wood with fine teeth.

Many collect at home homemade machine for cutting PPS, which allows you to make shapes of various shapes.

Styrofoam Adhesive

To date, the adhesives market is represented by such manufacturers as Ceresit, Knauf, TechnoNIKOL and others. Glue must have these properties how:

• water resistance;
• resistance to temperature changes;
• high adhesion force;
• lack of runoff from the surface;
• lack of toxicity.

A hallmark of the PPS is a weak resistance to some chemicals, so the composition of the adhesive should not include:

• petrol;
• kerosene;
• formaldehydes;
• acetone;
• epoxy resins.

Fixing plates to walls can be done with:

• polyurethane adhesive;
• dry mixes.

Polyurethane adhesive has high grip insulation with a base and convenient to use.

Glue prepared from a dry polymer-cement mixture plasticity and hardens quickly. He has high level adhesion to the surface. The mixture is diluted with water in the ratio of 1 kg of the mixture to 0.24 liters of water.

Fasten polystyrene sheets only on dowels less efficient than fastening first to the glue, and then fixing the already glued sheets of polystyrene foam with dowels.

Using glue for PPS, during insulation, you can achieve greater efficiency than at mechanical way plate fixation.

Advice: The substrate to be glued under Styrofoam must be cleaned of dirt with a solvent or pressurized water. Priming is recommended for highly absorbent surfaces.

Warming technology « wet facade» with polystyrene foam is identical to the insulation using the "wet facade" method with foam plastic. You can read more about this in the article “Insulation of facades with foam plastic technology”.

In conclusion, we can say that polystyrene foam is best option building insulation material. It is not affected by precipitation and aging, it lasts up to 50 years.

For instructions on the use of TechnoNIKOL foam adhesive for expanded polystyrene boards, see the video:

The main stage of construction is the insulation of the house. If you make mistakes in technology or in the choice of material, you can deprive your home of the necessary heat. Expanded polystyrene plates will help to keep the comfort in the house even when it is cold outside. They are famous for their low price and good thermal insulation.

Characteristics and properties

Expanded polystyrene is designed to retain heat. This happens due to compressed small balls containing air. They form a solid air cushion, similar to foam, which is why the material has a similar name.

The density of the material is between 0.028 and 0.034 watt meters per Kelvin. It depends on the weather conditions. Scientists in 2014 proved that mold fungi are not able to live on this insulation.

Each type has its own permeability. For example, extruded does not pass steam at all, and foamed - from 0.019 to 0.015 kg per m / h / Pascal. The difference appears due to the fact that the second variety is obtained by cutting from a whole block into plates of the desired thickness. Therefore, air penetrates through the broken structure of the balls.

Moisture absorption works on the same principle as vapor barrier. Solid polystyrene foam will absorb a maximum of 0.4 percent of water, thinner can absorb ten times more - 4%. Due to the dense structure, extruded is considered strong, from about 0.4 to 1 kg per square cm.

Due to the presence of antiperenes in the composition, expanded polystyrene will last for many years without losing its advantages. Based on all these properties, solid polystyrene foam is much better than foamed one. He almost ousted his competitor from the market and became the most sought after.

Main disadvantages

Now consider the problems encountered when using this heater. It is easily exposed to direct sunlight., under their pressure, its density weakens and becomes unstable to weather conditions.

Selection rules

Polystyrene insulation - popular and modern construction material. Therefore, manufacturers do not miss the moment to make money on it. There are dozens of types of insulation on the market. . How to choose the best insulation styrofoam?

Despite all the shortcomings and the difficult choice of insulation, polystyrene foam is used in the construction of four out of five houses. Most people trust him construction companies . If you take into account all the precautions and follow the technology, your house will be provided with heat for 30 years or more.

Expanded polystyrene (aka expanded polystyrene, aka polystyrene) is a heater that has become widespread in construction work associated with the thermal insulation device.

Expanded polystyrene and its types

The material is obtained by foaming synthetic polystyrene with water vapor and natural gas. Cured foam balls are 98% air and only 2% polystyrene. The finished material is cut into sheets of standard sizes.

Extruded polystyrene foam has increased strength. Its other names are technonicol expanded polystyrene (from the name of the manufacturer), and. It is made by foaming under pressure, increased strength allows the use of extruded insulation in load-bearing structures. In the manufacture of balls of material that are not fastened together in a flat sheet, granulated polystyrene foam is obtained - a mound of foam balls with a diameter of up to 8 mm.

The high popularity of the material is associated with its low cost, combined with excellent thermal insulation properties and ease of handling (delivery, installation). According to statistics, 80% of insulation work is carried out using two types of synthetic insulation - ordinary and extruded polystyrene foam.

How great are the characteristics of expanded polystyrene and what effect can be achieved with insulation with this material?

How does heat loss occur?

The fact that houses radiate heat has been known for a long time. In the spring, the paths along the walls are freed from snow earlier, the attic space of the house is always warmer than the outside air. However, it became possible to see the size of heat losses only in the middle of the 20th century. Appeared devices for measuring heat fluxes - - began to determine and show the dimensions of the thermal. The increase in prices for, the rise in the cost of heating were complemented by stunning pictures in which the houses were photographed in infrared radiation, where the contours of the warm background around the buildings were clearly visible.

The American thermal survey of the territory of the USSR from space showed a general thermal glow of residential buildings, which, against the background of isolated houses in Europe, gave the impression of heating the air.

According to thermal imagers, about 40-50% comes through window openings and 20-30% is lost through walls and construction joints. The remaining losses fall on the roof and ventilation.

Building insulation

The reduction of heat loss through the walls of the house is achieved by their insulation. It is better to install a layer of insulation on the outside of the heated room, so that the zero point shifts from the supporting wall to the heat insulator.

The list of used contains natural and synthetic materials. Felt, batting and tow (natural), glass wool and polystyrene (artificial). Among the materials available on the market, polystyrene foam wall insulation is the most popular. What are the advantages of insulation with this material?

Insulation benefits

Thermal conductivity of expanded polystyrene(0.037-0.043 W / m * C °) provides higher thermal insulation than mineral wool(0.046 W / m * C °), 4 times better than wood (0.18 W / m * C °), 8 times higher than dry foam concrete and 20 times better than a brick wall.

Availability. Styrofoam, at a price available to almost every homeowner. The cost of sheets depends on the thickness, the best characteristics of extruded polystyrene foam belong to sheets of large thickness (8 - 10 cm).

Manufacturability. Heat insulator plates weigh so little that they can be blown away by the wind. Therefore, the installation of insulation can be done by one person. When working at height, the low weight of the heat-insulating material makes it possible to insulate at the height of the 7th, 9th or 14th floor. The plate is easily cut with a saw, figured sawing is possible desired shape. To strengthen the insulation on the wall, glue for polystyrene foam and additional “umbrella” clamps are used. All of the above operations are technologically simple, do not require expensive equipment or highly skilled workers and, if necessary, can be performed independently.

Applications

Construction

Walling. Fixed formwork made of expanded polystyrene speeds up construction. Forms for pouring concrete (blocks) are made of insulation material. The resulting design is characterized by good thermal insulation, technologically advanced and easy to use, which allows the use of expanded polystyrene blocks as an insulated non-removable form. Fixed formwork is warmer than wood, stronger brick wall and cheaper than aerated concrete.

Thermal insulation of foundations- allows you to avoid freezing of the base, this prevents the appearance of microcracks and increases the durability of the building.

Floor insulation. Often used on "warm" floors, where the surface of the flooring serves as a radiator that radiates heat and heats the room. Expanded polystyrene for underfloor heating makes it possible to reduce heat loss to the ground or to the basement. Insulation of the floor with expanded polystyrene additionally works as a vibration and sound insulation work heating system floor, for this, plates with recesses are used for laying heating elements.

Thermal insulation of walls and facades. Produced both outside and inside the building. Insulation of walls from the outside (facade) is preferable than from the inside. As a result, a multilayer structure is obtained, consisting of a load-bearing wall (brick, shell rock, concrete, adobe), a layer of insulation and protective coating(plaster or cladding). Insulation of the facade with polystyrene foam will require additional costs. Mandatory protection of the insulation is made by siding, facing brick or "fur coat". Roof insulation. Ceiling tiles made of expanded polystyrene due to its low weight it is easy to install on the rafters under the roofing sheets, does not give an additional load on the walls.

- water supply, sewerage, communication cable - allows you to reduce the depth of their laying, thereby reducing the cost of plumbing or cable laying works.

Car roads, railways, runways - expanded polystyrene plates are installed under the coating, separating it from the freezing soil, which increases the durability of the laid tracks.

The most versatile, suitable for any insulation is "psb s 25".

Industry and economic sector

Beekeeping. Styrofoam hives have a number of advantages: heat capacity (protection from winter cold and summer heat), lightweight construction (important for mobile apiaries), acceptable cost (they are cheaper than wooden ones). At some enterprises, the production of foam hives is organized. An interesting combined solution would be a wooden hive with foam insulation, which is located between the outer and inner layers. wooden planks. Such evidence has a natural surface of a tree and at the same time protects the bee colony from frosts of -30 -40˚C.

Package. Almost any modern packaging contains foam parts. Glass and ceramic dishes, medicinal ampoules, boxes with equipment (laptop, washing machine, television). Styrofoam for packaging is made with recesses that repeat the shape of the object. The sealant does not allow the product to move along the packaging container, protects it from a possible impact. Styrofoam is also used to isolate perishable products during transportation.

Depreciation. The foam is placed in inner surface construction helmets, bicycle, ski helmets, etc.

Filler. Insulation granules are used as fillers for soft toys and furniture.

The effectiveness of using foam for insulation is confirmed by many positive reviews. When using extruded foam, according to reviews, more reliable and durable thermal insulation is formed, which generally pays for its overpriced price. The presence of disputes about the usefulness and breathability of synthetic foam only confirms the fact that foams are widely used. They insulate everything that requires insulation, the location of the insulation is in almost any accessible place.

Filipino natives can easily do without polystyrene foam insulation of their homes, given the stable heat on the islands all year round, but in our case, refuse good insulation walls in winter is like going out into the cold without a hat - you can, but it's stupid and unpleasant.

Together with the experts of the publication, we figure out how to insulate a house inside and out, what is extruded polystyrene foam and what is the best way to insulate - with polystyrene foam or expanded polystyrene?

Insulation with expanded polystyrene

Pros of Styrofoam

1. high strength with light weight;
2. low vapor permeability and noise absorption;
3. high resistance to chemicals;
4. environmentally friendly;
5. fireproof;
6. moisture resistant;
7. retains its original shape throughout the entire period of operation;
8. low cost.

Cons of Styrofoam

1. fragility.

Styrofoam insulation technology

Usually, expanded polystyrene is used for thermal insulation of a room from the outside, but it is also suitable for internal insulation of residential premises, albeit with reservations: PPS "steals" space, is not "breathable" and, when insulated from the inside, spreads a characteristic smell. It is better to pay attention to other material.

For gluing PPS to the wall, a special adhesive is used (glue or foam for polystyrene foam). As a rule, this is a dry mixture, which is diluted in warm water before use. room temperature and knead to a uniform, lump-free consistency.

IMPORTANT! When working with extruded polystyrene foam, glue or foam is applied in advance, approximately one hour before the PPS is attached, in a uniform layer on the wall and on the sheet itself.

Use special dowels, plastic nails with "umbrella" hats. It is advisable to combine both glue and dowels.

Surface preparation and sheeting technology

Work progress:

Step 1 - Before insulating, clean and prime the surface, mark it with “beacons” Step 5 - With a flat wall, use a notched trowel, thanks to which an even and rather economical layer is obtained Photo 7 - When the glue sets, holes are drilled in the wall through the plates according to the diameter of the dowels Step 11 - The reinforced layer is additionally leveled with a mortar, dried again, primed and then subjected to finishing plaster, on which the wall decoration is applied

IMPORTANT! All work on wall insulation must be carried out on a dry day at a temperature not lower than +5 °C.

Insulation of the house with polystyrene foam

Both wooden and frame, and brick house can be insulated with PPS. Owners of private houses are increasingly using expanded polystyrene for outdoor insulation. insulate frame house- a relatively new achievement, not all cottage owners trust him.

The sequence of warming a frame house:

Wall insulation with polystyrene foam

The above technology is also relevant for self-insulation of walls with polystyrene foam. But which is better to choose a heater, what types are offered? Maybe better liquid material? How to correctly calculate the thickness?

The main stages of external insulation:

1. prepare surfaces: cleaning, puttying cracks and cracks;
2. prepare an adhesive mixture or use polyurethane foam-glue;
3. apply glue to the expanded polystyrene plates: first lay out the edging, in the middle - dotted;
4. fix the plates with dowels with mushroom-shaped plastic caps;
5. coat the plates with glue, apply a reinforcing mesh;
6. putty the seams;
7. plaster, prime walls, apply decorative plaster or paint.

Ceiling insulation

Few people think about insulating the ceiling from the inside, but if the ceiling is not insulated, then all the heat goes up to the ceiling and out into the street. If desired, even a non-professional can insulate the ceiling, the installation technology is so simple:

1. count the number required material- multiply the length of the room by the width;
2. clean the ceiling from whitewash or wallpaper;
3. complete all electrical work;
4. eliminate all roughness on the ceiling before starting work, since the surface of the ceiling must be even;
5. to carry out work preferably in the warm season;
6. after cleaning, treat the ceiling surface with a primer solution;
7. prepare sheets, if necessary, cut them, adjusting to the dimensions of the ceiling;
8. fix in a checkerboard pattern using dowels;
9. fix the paint grid on the surface and putty;

For their insulation, a shell of expanded polystyrene is used. Today, thanks to its reliability and durability, it is the most the best option. The expanded polystyrene shell is offered in different diameters, which is very convenient, since you can choose the insulation for any pipe Ø from 17 mm to 1220 mm.

In the event of an accident, it is possible to quickly gain access to a certain place through special grooves, which will allow you to easily and quickly dismantle the insulation and then return everything to its place.

IMPORTANT! It has been confirmed that such insulation will be able to protect the pipe for up to 50 years at temperatures up to -70°C.

• window slopes

This method of window insulation is used in wooden buildings lined with bricks. Brick is colder than wood, and the temperature difference leads to condensation, freezing of windows, which deforms the window structure.

Stages of work:

1. cut polystyrene foam into strips 5-8 cm thick;
2. paste over the outer slopes around the window with them, which forms a spade in relation to the inner slope;
3. after the glue has dried, install the window by mounting the fasteners to the wall and filling the gaps with mounting foam;
4. from the outside, the slopes must be plastered after the glue and foam have dried, which, after settling, will not let cold air through.

• armored belt

The implementation of the insulation of the armored belt should be carried out from the outside of the building. It is better to insulate directly during construction. For this, a colored polystyrene foam plate measuring 60x120cm is suitable:

1. cut the plate in half lengthwise and fix it on the wall;
2. putty joints with sealant and paint.

• doors

The main heat loss occurs through entrance doors. You can insulate PPS as wooden doors, and metal.

• Insulation of wooden doors:

1. cut a single piece from a sheet of expanded polystyrene to the size of a wooden sheet;
2. stick it on the door;
3. cover with sheathing material;
4. around the perimeter door leaf fill the slats (thickness over a sheet of polystyrene foam);
5. between the slats lay insulation on the glue;
6. on top of the rails, fill the finish in the form of laminated MDF, chipboard or plywood.

• Insulation of metal doors:

IMPORTANT! Usually, in the manufacture of metal doors, sheet material is used, welded on the sides with corners, i.e. inside there are voids that should be filled from the inside for additional insulation.

1. take the dimensions (width and length) of the canvas along which the fiberboard panel will be cut in order to close the expanded polystyrene layer;
2. dimensions of the door leaf for transfer to fiberboard plywood, note the location and dimensions of the handle and peephole, cut openings for them;
3. to check the correctness of all marks, it is necessary to attach the panel directly to the door;
4. cut sheets of polystyrene foam with a sharp knife and glue them to the inside of the door leaf with silicone, which is applied in a uniform dense layer over the entire surface;
5. keep in mind that the thickness of the expanded polystyrene is determined by the size of the corner shelf;
6. close the insulation with a panel of fiberboard, put a bit on a screwdriver and screw it with self-tapping screws to the door leaf;

IMPORTANT! Stiffening rib metal door made of a hollow tube, in winter it freezes and the effect of a "refrigerator" is observed. It should be filled from the inside with mounting foam by drilling holes in the pipe with a drill, where the foam is poured.

• basement

If the basement on the first floors is not properly designed, condensation is possible at low surface temperatures. Consequences - mold, fungus. The foundation needs to be insulated, even if the exploited basement is not provided for in the house.

Features of basement or cellar insulation with polystyrene foam

Advantages of extruded polystyrene foam

1. not subject to attacks by rodents;
2. not very fragile;
3. waterproof;
4. easy to process;
5. low weight, which eliminates the additional load on the load-bearing structures.

Cons of extruded polystyrene foam

1. will cost more;
2. combustible and toxic.

It is necessary to carry out all work on waterproofing and insulation of the foundation or basement even at the construction stage. If they are not done, during operation you should:

• create a drainage system;
• perform waterproofing of the protruding parts of the foundation and plinth;
• insulate the basement inside and out.

Installation with polystyrene foam

1. seal cracks and voids in the walls with mounting foam or sealant;
2. irregularities that interfere with the fastening of the plates, plaster;
3. treat the walls with waterproofing material - liquid rubber, bituminous mastic, roll material;
4. glue foam polystyrene plates on the surface from bottom to top end-to-end, the next row is mounted on the previous one with a run-out of seams;
5. fix additionally with dowels (5 pcs per workpiece);
6. foam the seams;
7. outside to process the plates with plaster. The use of fiberglass reinforcing mesh in the process is recommended;
8. apply penetrating waterproofing to the cellar ceiling;
9. stick the plates and fix the dowel-nails;
10. stick fiberglass mesh and plaster.

• With a base of reinforced concrete slabs:

1. waterproofing with a double layer of roofing material with a coating between the layers with bituminous mastic;
2. lay high-density polystyrene foam or extruded PPS;
3. produce a screed.

• With an earthen basement or cellar:

1. remove the sod and level the surface;
2. place waterproofing material;
3. pour a gravel-sand pillow, tamp;
4. an alternative to a pillow would be expanded clay or sawdust-clay mixture
5. lay insulation;
6. produce a screed.

Basement ready for finishing, for this they use paint, plaster, porcelain tiles.

Facade insulation

Work progress:

1. prepare the walls and prime;
2. the waterproofing of the basement is carried out after it dries; for this, compositions based on epoxy resins are perfect;
3. glue and fix the plates with plastic dowels (both dry mixes and glue in cylinders, for example, ST-84, are suitable for fixing polystyrene foam);
4. finish with a facade mesh using a reinforcing composition;
5. over the protective layer, any type of finish is possible: decorative rock, siding, decorative plaster compositions.

IMPORTANT! To insulate the basement, it is better to use extruded polystyrene foam - it is tougher.

Insulation of the foundation of the house from the outside

Before starting work, it should be determined what thickness of the PPS will be sufficient to insulate the foundation.

Technology:

1. apply glue on the plate pointwise (in each corner and in the center from 6-8 points, diameter from 10-15 cm, thickness 1 cm);
2. after application, wait 1 min, press the polystyrene foam to the base of the foundation;
3. insulation to start from the corner of the foundation from the bottom;
4. the second row is fixed so that the center of the plate is located above the joint of the plates of the 1st row;
5. fill the trench with sand to the middle of the slab;
6. compact the sand;
7. create an additional layer of thermal insulation at the corners of the foundation;
8. laying polystyrene foam on the base with glue;
9. fill up the trench;
10. make a blind area around the house: fill the area around the perimeter of the building with sand and crushed stone (gravel) and pour cement mortar.

Blind area insulation

As a rule, the blind area is made around the entire perimeter of the building from concrete. It adjoins close to the foundation and protects it from adverse atmospheric influences.

Advantages of insulating the blind area with polystyrene foam

1. frost resistance;
2. minimum water absorption;
3. resistance to mold and mildew;
4. excellent thermal insulation;
5. resistance to high temperatures;
6. light weight;
7. ease of installation.

Cons of insulating the blind area with polystyrene foam

1. creates a favorable environment for the reproduction of fungi and mold;
2. fire hazard.

Most often, PPS is used to insulate the blind area:

• laying the material in one layer with sheets 100 mm thick or 50 mm in two layers;
• lay high-density polyethylene (plantera, isostud) on a layer of expanded polystyrene for waterproofing the joints of sheets.

• Wells

The protection of wells, especially in rural areas, is very relevant - water supply is necessary at any time of the year. insulate well cover, made of wood and fixed inside the structure itself, is a must.

The cover serves as protection against:

• temperature fluctuations;
• snow and rain ingress;
• dry leaves and other debris.

There are 3 thermal insulation technologies:

• thermal insulation of the upper ring;
• insulation of the structure cover;
• construction of a decorative house.

Work progress:

1. cut two shields along the diameter;
2. wrap one with foil and lower it into the well below ground level;
3. fix it on hangers;
4. top must be insulated with foam;
5. the second shield is insulated in the same way and placed in the well 0.8 m - 1.2 m above the first;

• Overlappings

In a residential building, floors are divided into:

1. attic;
2. basement;
3. basement;
4. interfloor.

The cheapest PPS is suitable for thermal insulation of the floor slab, and the cracks are filled with construction foam. Regarding wooden floors, then the insulating material is laid between the wooden beams.

PPS really insulate rooms for any purpose, including baths: the properties of the material are ideally preserved at 100% humidity. After insulation, a crate is usually mounted from metal profile or from a bar for siding or other facing material, such as corrugated board or panels.

A great option would be to insulate the outer walls with expanded polystyrene foam. Quite often, foam block walls are insulated with polystyrene foam, the application technology is standard.

For the thermal insulation of the bath, the technologies of the “ventilated and “wet” facade are used:

1. preparation of walls and calculation of the amount of required insulation;
2. installation of expanded polystyrene, when the sheets are glued end-to-end with a polyurethane, cement, acrylic adhesive mixture;
3. large gaps are foamed with mounting foam;
4. installation of a crate from a metal profile or from a bar for siding or other facing material, such as corrugated board or panels.

Warm plaster, which includes expanded polystyrene granules, expanded clay chips, cement, sawdust, plasticizers, is characterized by excellent thermal insulation properties. In the bath, as a rule, not only the walls outside and inside, but also the ceiling and floor are insulated.

Insulation with extruded polystyrene foam

Extruded polystyrene foam (XPS) is an eco-friendly material that does not absorb water and does not rot. They are equally good at insulating walls both outside and inside, while the thickness is calculated.

When installing it, there is no need for additional waterproofing:

1. in order to fix the material on metal gates, you need a good assembly adhesive designed specifically for such work. Liquid nails of quick solidification are quite suitable;
2. prepare sheets according to required dimensions and stick to the surface. At the same time, it is advisable to seal the joints with mounting foam;
3. create another layer from plastic panels, wooden planks or plywood.

Extruded polystyrene foam for home insulation

To date, extruded polystyrene foam is actively used for insulation of frame and wooden houses, as well as for warming the apartment from the inside, where the only obstacle may be the thickness of the insulation.

The external method of installing thermal insulation is safer and more effective than insulation from the inside. When installing insulation inside the apartment, the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe room is reduced due to the thickness of polystyrene foam. This also applies to the basement. small sizes.

The process of internal insulation is carried out strictly according to the technology of installation of a heat-insulating system. The dew point shifts and condensation is possible on the walls, which forms mold, the heat-insulating layer and the supporting structures themselves are also destroyed.

If we consider the installation of insulation inside the apartment, then there is a decrease in area due to the thickness of polystyrene foam. This problem also applies to the basement, if it is small in size, then you are unlikely to like it if it becomes even smaller.

Wall insulation from the inside with polystyrene foam

Independent thermal insulation of a house or apartment is possible. Usually, internal insulation is carried out due to the impossibility of doing it from the outside, for example, if the room is of historical value.

Floor insulation

Expanded polystyrene is also used for floor insulation without a screed, directly on the foam boards:

1. lay the vapor barrier layer on the floors,
2. top - polystyrene foam plates;
3. there is no need to lay waterproofing, you can immediately equip the floor covering.

In a garage or basement, in order to save money, a concrete floor is laid on top of the ground. And here it is important to insulate the lower part of the building with high quality, since high-quality hydro and thermal insulation in winter will help maintain a comfortable temperature.

Wooden floor insulation

When laying the thermal insulation of wooden floors, preference is given to natural materials. The flooring is mounted directly on concrete screed, then the wooden floor is insulated with polystyrene foam.

All work is carried out even during the construction process: first, sand or gravel is poured, then logs are installed, and expanded polystyrene plates are placed between them (in between). A screed is poured from above and a wooden floor is laid.

concrete floor insulation

Laying technology is in many ways reminiscent of floor insulation under a screed, only more laborious. Do not forget that when the concrete floor is insulated with polystyrene foam, as a rule, the height of the room is “eaten up”.

Sometimes such deviations are allowed:

• the thickness of the screed should be no more than 5 cm. The same value is left for the thickness of the expanded polystyrene;
• with a flat floor surface, you can install only insulation boards and win a few desired centimeters.

Balcony insulation

Styrofoam really insulate a balcony or loggia. Extruded polystyrene and polystyrene will be equally good for this.

Insulation installation:

1. Cut the PPS to the size of the balcony walls and floor on which it will be laid;
2. treat the walls with a dotted adhesive solution, retreating from the edges of 5-7 mm;
3. press polystyrene insulation boards to the wall of the loggia;
4. apply glue 2-3 mm thick to the surface of the insulation;
5. additionally strengthen the material with plastic dowels - "mushrooms" (6-7 pieces per 1 m²);
6. attach a reinforcing mesh on top with a mesh frequency of 5 mm, without sinking it into the adhesive solution;
7. let the glue dry.

Roof insulation

Roof insulation can be performed in several ways:

• flooring;
• gluing;
• investment in the crate;
• mechanical fastening.

IMPORTANT! Mounting methods can be combined.

Attic insulation

Private home owners are transforming attic space under the attic, buildings with gable roof. Naturally, cold attic should be thermally insulated, for this use polystyrene foam plates.

Master Class:

Wall insulation from the outside with polystyrene foam

Expanded polystyrene turned out to be an excellent insulation under plaster for the walls of houses, both outside and inside. But is it possible to insulate them outside the walls of aerated concrete? And will such insulation be effective?

Features of aerated concrete walls

In the production of blocks, which include sand, cement, limestone, a special technology is used, which gives them good rigidity and thermal insulation qualities.

But why insulate walls made of aerated concrete if they are already warm? Worth it if you live in a cold northern area. Insulation outside the walls of aerated concrete PPS is produced as a temporary option or "economy" due to poor permeability of materials. These warnings also apply to the insulation of the foundation, bath and basement.

• Floor insulation with polystyrene foam

How is the insulation of a wooden and concrete floor, on the ground, under a screed and without a screed, we discussed how the floors are insulated, for example, in a garage?

Watch video:

Regarding the laminate, this type of coating is becoming more and more popular every day due to the ease of installation. It is better to insulate the floor under the laminate, otherwise it will be possible to walk on it only in slippers.

Warming of the concrete floor in the bath is carried out after the construction of the building. As an insulating layer, expanded clay, polystyrene foam and even glass bottles are often used.

Installation sequence:

The floor of the first floor always needs to be insulated, and a whole range of work is needed to insulate the floor. Moreover, it is desirable to carry out floor insulation above a cold attic from above, and thermal protection above the basement - from below.

Scheme of insulation of the floor of the first floor:

1. dismantling of the old floor covering;
2. laying a vapor barrier layer;
3. insulation PPS;
4. laying a layer of polyethylene film;
5. reinforcing screed with cement mortar;
6. new finish.

The thickness of the insulation layer on the ground floor should be at least 80-100 mm.

Some features of insulation:

• Roofs

Of course, the insulation of the PPS roof of the attic increases the life of the roof. According to its characteristics, PPS is similar to polystyrene, but the technology for its use for roof insulation is different.

Attic insulation with extruded polystyrene foam consists in laying rafters on top in order to exclude the appearance of even the slightest gaps. Expanded polystyrene boards are made specifically with joints of the form of a step or a “thorn-in-groove” design.

• roofs

The technology of floor insulation is similar to roof insulation. The bottom layer in this case should be a vapor barrier film endowed with anti-condensation properties, and the top layer should be a waterproofing film. When water leaks, it is the film that will protect the insulation from waterlogging.

Expanded polystyrene plates are laid in the space between ceiling beams while filling the cracks.

• plinth

The technology for insulating the basement of a house is quite simple, which allows you to do all the work yourself.

• Foundation

Full thermal insulation of the foundation should consist of two sections - horizontal and vertical. vertical section- these are PPS slabs mounted on the outer walls of the foundation tape, while the horizontal one should form a continuous belt around the perimeter of the building being erected, as the technology provides.

The required thickness of the insulation is calculated by the formula. The technology also provides for the insulation of the soil around the foundation, which is isolated from sub-zero temperatures by an insulated blind area, no more than a meter wide.

Styrofoam insulation from the inside

If you plan to use the loggia or balcony area solely for storing things, then one layer is enough to insulate the wall.

For external thermal insulation, sheets with a thickness of at least 50 mm are used.

• What is better for insulation foam or polystyrene foam?

The difference lies in the production technology. Styrofoam is produced by dry steam treatment of polystyrene granules; during thermal expansion, they “stick” to each other, which forms micropores.

Expanded polystyrene is made by the “extrusion” method: polystyrene granules are melted, which contributes to the formation of bonds at the molecular level, so a single structure arises.

There are also differences in physical and technical characteristics.

The advantages of expanded polystyrene:

• strength;
• good permeability;
• high density.

If you need inexpensive material, then it is more profitable to use foam.