Creating a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner. Do-it-yourself vacuum cleaner with a cyclone filter for a workshop

If large and relatively large pieces of construction debris are well transferred from the floor into bags, then construction dust is the scourge of repair.

We turn our attention to the offers on the market of vacuum cleaners: from 6000 r.

Hmm, since it is not yet known if there will be more orders for repairs after this is completed, then the investment in a vacuum cleaner may not pay off. We shift our gaze to homemade products. Google. The principle of the cyclone filter has been known for a long time, we are studying the best practices of its independent production. There are very good designs, but difficult to manufacture. All the same, you need a vacuum cleaner quickly, there is no time for a long fuss with it. But the general trend is clear: standard vacuum cleaner + car filter + barrel. In the bins there is quite a worthy copy of the vacuum cleaner (priceless) The air filter from the Gazelle is bought in auto parts (180 r) The barrel is taken in a building supermarket (I had to run around different ones to find a suitable one and at an unclouded price. 500 r.)

After buying the barrel, I understand that it is essentially square. Let there be rounded corners, but a classic cyclone may not work. Okay, I'll rely on the filter from the Gazelle.

You can start. The hole in the cover has already been drilled, the nozzles of the required diameters have also been found.

First I figure out how to attach the filter to the lid. A very successful hole in it encourages the idea to use it. Firstly, a quick-release mount, and secondly, it still had to be closed with something. I cut out petals from tin (here Mercedes should fork off some money for advertising)

And I make such a central screed.

The filter is on.

First layout example.

A piece of pipe tangentially and slightly down. We see such a clean barrel for the last time.

Cover for the filter. The shape repeats the expected flow of sandblasting (by the way, the topic, we should hang some detail here, see if it will be sanded) It is necessary so that the dust does not immediately crash into the filter.

Guess what's on the filter?

Pioneers advise to put a woman's stocking on the filter to prevent large pieces of dirt from clogging the filter. The filter diameter is really big. Barely pulled, tore. In short, it works out its only partially.

The first test launches showed that the barrel is not rigid enough, the suction force is greater and therefore the barrel is distorted, especially when the mud flow is dense. You need to strengthen the sides.

I thought about it, realized that embedding the shell inside is difficult and will worsen the already not ideal aerodynamics inside. Therefore, I make a shell on the outside. 25 mm strip bent on my bending machine. Consists of two halves - for ease of installation. Fastened from the inside with screws with large washers.

There was less shrinkage.

4 swivel wheels are attached to the frame (they were lying around in the country).

And the final marriage of components.

Cunning quick-detachable system of fastening of a barrel on ropes. This is the best thing that came to mind.

And of course the ship product needs a name. As you call it, so it will float.

My DIY construction vacuum cleaner is called Veterok-M.

Handsome!

And it works like a beast. Already working hard at the facility.

The cost of the product is 680 r + several working hours. If there is no vacuum cleaner lying around, then the budget will increase by 1000 r (this is how lucky you are with buying a used one). But in any case, it is much better (by an order of magnitude) than ready-made vacuum cleaners for sale. Another blow to global corporations in the gut!

Very often when installation work with an electrician, it is impossible to do without a vacuum cleaner. First of all, this is due to the processes of wall chasing.

You can’t use home-made household models for this business, otherwise you will ruin them on the very first day of work. Their dust containers will fill up very quickly, and the vacuum cleaner itself will overheat.

Only professional craftsmen daily earning this type of activity.

But what if you are not a builder and you need such a device only to complete the repair of electricians in your apartment? In this case, there is only one optimal way out - to independently make a construction vacuum cleaner from an ordinary one.

Moreover, in time for such an alteration, it will take you only a few minutes. And the materials that are required for this can be easily found in the pantry, or purchased in addition at the nearest plumbing store.

Let's take a closer look at two very similar methods, which nevertheless have constructive differences between them.

Homemade cyclone from a household vacuum cleaner

The first method has been presented on the Internet and on YouTube for quite some time. You can easily find many videos with similar homemade cyclones.

However, they cause quite legitimate questions and skepticism among professional builders. Therefore, you should immediately make a reservation that they are mostly suitable for cleaning wood chips.

But it is better not to work with cement dust with such devices. Under it, the second option is more “imprisoned”.

The main "trick" that will allow you to calmly suck in kilograms of garbage, wood, metal filings and at the same time not worry about the frequent change of filter bags is a home-made "separator".

It will then need to be constructed from several components. For the entire assembly you will need:

A bucket of Shitrok putty is best here. It is harder to flatten it with a vacuum.

First of all, drill or carefully cut a through hole for the tube in the center of the bucket lid.

Mark the second hole closer to the edges of the cover, where the stiffener is.

If you do not have a special crown, then first pierce the intended circle with an awl and carefully cut it with a clerical knife.

The edges will be uneven, but they can be processed with a round file.

Two sewer outlets are inserted into these holes. So that they hold securely and there is no additional air leakage, it is better to glue them.

To do this, first sand the edges of the tube with sandpaper or a file to create a rough surface.

Do the same operation with the lid.

After that, insert the tube inside the cover and apply a thick layer of glue with a thermal gun.

Don't feel sorry for Clay. This will help create good tightness in these places and tightly close all the cracks.

There is really another option in which you can do without glue at all and fan pipes. To do this, purchase rubber adapters from Leroy Merlin.

They come in different diameters. Choose according to your hose size.

For example, a tube from a 35mm hose is tightly inserted into a 40/32 coupling. But in a 40mm pipe it will hang out. We'll have to wind up something and collective farm.

On the tube that is on the edge of the cover, put on sewer outlet 90 degrees.

On this, the design of the separator can be said to be almost ready. Install the lid with taps on the bucket.

The air intake hose from the vacuum cleaner is inserted into the central hole.

And the piece with which you will collect all the garbage and dust is stuck into the corner joint.

It is desirable that o-rings be present in the tubes according to the size of the corrugated hoses of the vacuum cleaner.

This completes the entire assembly. You can plug the vacuum cleaner into the network and use it.

Here is a visual video from the inside of a bucket of a similar design. It clearly shows how sawdust is sucked into the separator, but cannot escape from it and get into the vacuum cleaner.

The principle of operation here is the following. Coarse dust sucked into the container falls to the bottom of the container. At the same time, it does not fall into the zone where the air is pumped out directly.

Three factors help in this matter:

• gravity

• friction

• centrifugal force

They then make the garbage rotate inside the bucket, clinging to its walls, and then fall to the bottom. And only the fine fraction goes directly into the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner.

Typically, such a cyclone on factory designs has the shape of a cone, but cylindrical specimens also often do a good job with this task.

True, the higher the bucket, the better the installation will work. Much here depends on the correct pairing of the design of the container and the power of the vacuum cleaner. Here is a sign from Chinese cyclones correct selection diameter of hoses and power of units.

In cylindrical buckets, the tangential air flow enters not through a curved side wall, but through a flat lid. It is much easier to assemble such a device.

Also, if you have several buckets, you can use them one by one. Just take the cover off one and put it on the other. And this is even easier to do than in bulky cyclones.

If you have powerful vacuum cleaner, instead of a plastic emulsion paint bucket, it is better to use a metal tank of the same shape. Otherwise, the bucket will collapse and flatten it.

The power regulator comes to the rescue in this case. If it is of course present in your model.

Why does the vacuum cleaner still fail?

With this method, all fine dust will enter the vacuum cleaner bag, and more or less large fractions will simply settle and remain in the bucket. As homemade assure, more than 95% of construction waste settles in the separator and only 5% goes directly into the dust collector of a household vacuum cleaner.

However, the thing is that even these 5% can gradually kill the vacuum cleaner. In addition, even for industrial cyclones, the declared efficiency is rarely more than 90%, and what about do-it-yourself products in which aerodynamics are far from perfect.

For 100% collection of fines, an electrostatic precipitator or bubble column is needed.

By the way, from some types of dust, there is a very strong static voltage. Be careful while working.

The longer you work with the unit without disconnecting it from the network, the higher the charge can be. Here, read the instructive commentary of one real user of such a homemade product.

Therefore, on many cyclones, even factory assembled, the flange is grounded.

Five percent of small wood shavings is certainly not terrible for a household vacuum cleaner. And if it will be fine cement dust during gating?

Such particles, when they get inside, tightly clog the filter.

And it happens very quickly. The entire efficiency of the "cyclone" drops by at least 2/3 within a matter of minutes.

The main problem is in the dust bag. It is dense, and the filtration area is small. Therefore, it is not suitable for waste from plaster and concrete walls.

What to do? Is it really impossible to do without a real construction device? With intensive work, only an expensive and professional tool really saves.

What is the difference between a construction vacuum cleaner and a conventional vacuum cleaner

But for occasional work, this design can be slightly modified and improved. Idea belongs Shayter Andrey.

Before we consider the second design option, ask yourself the question: "What is one of the main differences between household and construction vacuum cleaners?"

In domestic models, cooling occurs due to the intake air.

That is, you vacuum the floor, the air sucks in the garbage. Next, it is filtered and the engine itself is cooled. Then the air is expelled outside.

This is where the risk of engine damage comes from. Firstly, when the filter is clogged, the cooling of the engine drops sharply.

Secondly, cement dust is not 100% retained in the dust collector, and part of it flies through the windings, along the way removing varnish insulation like emery. Such dispersed dust kills everything rubbing and spinning.

Adding water to the bottom of the tank doesn't help much. Instead of dust, you will get a lot of dirt, the weight of a bucket, and the filters will still end up clogged.

In professional devices, the engine is cooled separately, through special technological holes. Therefore, they are not so afraid of bags completely clogged with garbage.

Moreover, they also have automatic cleaning or shaking.

In order to change the mind household model, you will need a little more spare parts than in the first case.

A working version of a construction vacuum cleaner from a household

Main additional element here is the nonwoven filter bag. Copies from the company Karcher fit very well - article 2.863-006.0

Actually, this filter is disposable. Your task is to make a reusable element out of it.

To do this, cut its lower part and fold it a little, slightly reducing the width (up to 22 cm).

Next, this lower part must be closed with a special closure. You make it from two elements of a plastic cable channel and a piece of polypropylene pipe.

Cut the tube lengthwise, with a slot width of about 5 mm.

Attach them with the back side to the fabric at the bottom.

Then thread the prepared tube through the slot.

As a result, from a disposable you have a reusable filter bag. And much larger than the one installed inside the household model.

Next, you do the previously discussed steps to upgrade the bucket. Drill holes in the lid and insert rubber corrugated adapters into them.

One will be for connecting the filter bag, the other for the hose. Choose the sizes according to the diameters of your devices.

Here you can do without fan pipes and corners. Next, put on the plastic insert from the reusable filter onto the adapter.

It remains to tightly close the lid on the bucket. The structure is ready to go.

Although it is similar, it differs from the first option above. After you turn on the unit and start sucking in the garbage, it is the home-made reusable dust collector that will collect all the muck and dirt in itself.

Dust will not fly around like in the previous case. On the contrary, this bag will inflate inside the bucket from the air flow.

Gradually, it will be filled with both heavy and fine fractions, which could be missed by the cyclone.

However, do not forget about clogging the walls of the reusable filter and reducing the draft of the cooling air flow. In order not to burn the engine of a household vacuum cleaner, one more measure must be taken.

How not to burn a household vacuum cleaner

Most modern models There is a built-in safety valve. It indicates when the filters are already clogged and at this moment additional air flow opens.

Indeed, this is considered an emergency. Your task is not to wait until this valve is triggered, but to use a slightly different trick.

Some devices have a draft regulator directly on the handle in the form of a hole that opens or closes. It just the same and should be slightly opened for any type of work.

If you do not have such a factory regulator, you can drill a small additional hole with a diameter of 12mm in the bucket lid itself.

And most importantly, do not forget that any household vacuum cleaner, no matter how you upgrade it, has a certain period of continuous operation. Be sure to record the start time and do not work longer than the prescribed period.

I mean, just take breaks. At least to shake homemade filter. And he just shakes himself with a bucket.

When the dust container is substantially full, open the lid of the bucket and with a slight movement pull the tube out of the guides at the bottom of the bag.

It will open up and the debris with dust can be removed. After that, collect the entire structure back and work on.

The normal functioning of the bag is enough for about three full fillings. After that, cement dust in the fabric itself begins to strongly slow down the air flow.

You will either have to replace the filter with a new one, or not just shake it, but thoroughly clean it of any fine debris and continue working as if nothing had happened.

Recently, I have become interested in working with wood and the question of removing chips and sawdust has become very acute. So far, the issue of cleaning the workplace is being solved with a home vacuum cleaner, but it quickly clogs and stops sucking. You have to shake out the bag often. In search of a solution to the problem, I reviewed many pages on the Internet and found something. As it turned out, quite workable dust collectors can be made from improvised materials.

Mini vacuum cleaner from a plastic bottle

Here is another mini venturi vacuum cleaner idea
such a vacuum cleaner works from forced air.

Venturi effect

The Venturi effect is the drop in pressure when a liquid or gas flows through a constricted portion of a pipe. This effect is named after the Italian physicist Giovanni Venturi (1746-1822).

Rationale

The Venturi effect is a consequence of the Bernoulli law, which corresponds to the Bernoulli equation, which determines the relationship between the speed v liquid, pressure p in it and height h, on which the considered fluid element is located, above the reference level:

where is the density of the liquid, and is the free fall acceleration.

If the Bernoulli equation is written for two flow sections, then we will have:

For horizontal flow, the middle terms on the left and right parts the equations are equal to each other, and therefore cancel, and the equality takes the form:

that is, with a steady horizontal flow of an ideal incompressible fluid in each of its sections, the sum of the piezometric and dynamic pressures will be constant. To fulfill this condition in those places of the flow where average speed liquid above (that is, in narrow sections), its dynamic head increases, and the hydrostatic head decreases (and hence the pressure decreases).

Application
The Venturi effect is observed or used in the following objects:

• in hydraulic jet pumps, in particular in tankers for products of the oil and chemical industries;
• in burners that mix air and combustible gases in the grill, gas stove, Bunsen burner and airbrushes;
• in Venturi tubes - narrowing elements of Venturi flowmeters;
• in Venturi flowmeters;
• in water aspirators of the ejector type, which create small vacuums using the kinetic energy of tap water;
• atomizers (sprayers) for spraying paint, water or air aromatization.
• carburetors, where the Venturi effect is used to draw gasoline into the inlet air stream of an internal combustion engine;
• in automated swimming pool cleaners that use water pressure to pick up sediment and debris;
• in oxygen masks for oxygen therapy, etc.

And now let's look at the samples that can take their rightful place in the workshop.

Ideally, I would like to get something similar to a cyclone filter, but from improvised materials:

Homemade chip separator.

The principle is the same, but made much simpler:

But this option I liked the most, as it is a reduced analogue of an industrial cyclone:

ch1

Since I don’t have a traffic cone, I decided to stop at just such a structure, assembled from plastic pipes for sewerage. A definite plus is the availability and cheapness of the material for assembling the structure:

Homemade cyclone from plastic sewer pipes

Please pay attention to the mistake that the master made. The garbage collection pipe should be located like this:

In this case, the desired vortex will be created.
The following video shows a similar design in action:

And finally, a slightly modified version:

From the very beginning of work in the workshop, I faced the problem of removing dust after work. The only opportunity available to clean up the floor was to sweep it. But because of this, just an incredible amount of dust rose into the air, which settled in a tangible layer on furniture, on machines, on tools, in hair and lungs. The concrete floor in the workshop exacerbated the problem. Some solution was to spray water before sweeping and use a respirator. However, these are only half measures. Water freezes in winter unheated room and you have to carry it with you, in addition, the water-dust mixture on the floor is difficult to collect and it also does not contribute to the hygiene of the workplace. Firstly, the respirator does not block all 100% of dust, some part is still inhaled, and secondly, it does not protect against dust settling on environment. And not all back streets can be climbed with a broom to pick out small debris and sawdust from there.

In such a situation, the most effective solution it would be to vacuum the room.

However, using a household vacuum cleaner will not work. Firstly, it will have to be cleaned every 10-15 minutes of operation (especially if you work on milling table). Secondly, as the dust container fills up, suction efficiency decreases. Thirdly, the amount of dust, greatly exceeding the calculated values, will greatly affect the resource of the vacuum cleaner. Something more specialized is needed here.

There are many off-the-shelf solutions for workshop dust removal, however, their cost, especially in light of the 2014 Crisis, does not make them too affordable. Found on thematic forums interesting solution- use a cyclone filter in conjunction with a conventional household vacuum cleaner. All of the listed problems of household vacuum cleaners are solved if dirt and dust are removed from the air to a standard vacuum cleaner dust collector. Some collect cyclone filters from traffic cones, others from sewer pipes, others from plywood and everything that is enough for imagination. But I decided to buy a ready-made filter with fasteners.

The principle of operation is simple - the air flow is twisted in the cone-shaped filter housing and dust is removed from the air under the action of centrifugal force. In this case, the dust falls through the lower hole into the container under the filter, and the purified air exits through the upper hole into the vacuum cleaner.

One of the frequent problems in the operation of cyclones is the so-called "carousel". This is a situation where dirt and sawdust do not fall into the dust container, but swirl endlessly inside the filter. This situation arises from too high a speed of the air flow created by the turbine of the vacuum cleaner. It is necessary to reduce the speed a little and the "carousel" will disappear. In principle, it does not interfere - the next portion of garbage pushes most of the "carousel" into the container and takes its place. And in the second model of plastic cyclones, this carousel practically does not exist. To eliminate air leakage, I smeared with hot glue the junction of the filter with the cover.

I decided to take a larger dust container so that I had to take out the garbage less often. I bought a barrel of 127 liters, produced, it seems, in Samara - the size is right! I'm going to carry the barrel to the trash can like a grandmother carrying a shopping bag - on another cart, so as not to overstrain.

Next is the choice of layout. Some install the dust collector permanently and lead channels to the machines. Others simply put a vacuum cleaner and a barrel next to each other and drag them to the right place. I wanted to make a mobile unit on wheels to move everything around the workshop in one block.
I have a rather small workshop and the issue of saving space is very relevant. Therefore, I decided to choose a layout in which the barrel, filter and vacuum cleaner are located one above the other, occupying a minimum area. It was decided to cook the body of the installation from metal. frame from profile pipe determines the dimensions of the future installation.

With a vertical layout, there is a possibility of tipping over. To reduce this probability, you need to make the base as heavy as possible. For this, a 50x50x5 corner was chosen as the material for the base, which took almost 3.5 meters.

The tangible weight of the trolley is offset by the presence of swivel wheels. There were thoughts, if the structure is not stable enough, to fill the cavity of the frame with lead shot or sand. But this was not required.

In order to achieve the verticality of the rods, it was necessary to use ingenuity. The recently purchased vise came in handy. Thanks to such a simple equipment, it was possible to achieve accurate installation of angles.

It is convenient to move the trolley by holding on to the vertical bars, so I strengthened their attachment points. In addition, this is an additional, albeit not large, weighting of the base. In general, I like reliable things with a margin of safety.

The barrel will be fixed in the installation frame with the help of clamps.

At the top of the rods is a platform for a vacuum cleaner. Further, holes will be drilled in the corners in the lower part and wooden planks will be fixed with self-tapping screws.

Here is the whole frame. It seems to be nothing complicated, but for some reason it took four evenings to assemble it. On the one hand, I did not seem to be in a hurry, I worked at my own pace, trying to complete each stage with high quality. But on the other hand, low productivity is associated with the lack of heating in the workshop. Goggles and a welded mask fog up quickly, impairing visibility, bulky outerwear hinders movement. But the task is done. Besides, spring is only a couple of weeks away.

I really did not want to leave the frame in this form. I wanted to paint it. But on all the cans of paint that I found in the store it is written that they can be used at a temperature not lower than +5, and on some even not lower than +15. The thermometer in the workshop shows -3. How to be?
Esteemed thematic forums. People write that you can safely paint even in frost, as long as the paint is not on water based and there was no condensation on the part. And if the paint is with a hardener, then do not bathe at all.
I found an old, slightly thickened can of Hammerite in the stash, which I used to paint a horizontal bar at the dacha in the summer -. The paint is quite expensive, so I decided to test it in extreme conditions. Instead of the expensive original thinner, Hammereit added some regular degreaser to make it a little thinner, stirred it to the desired consistency and began to paint.
In summer, this paint dried in one hour. It is difficult to say how long it dried in the winter, but when I returned to the workshop by the evening of the next day, the paint had dried. True, without the promised hammer effect. Probably the degreaser is to blame, not the negative temperature. Otherwise, no other problems were found. The cover looks and feels secure. Perhaps it is not for nothing that this paint costs almost 2,500 rubles in the store.

The body of the cyclone is made of good plastic and has fairly thick walls. But fastening the filter to the lid of the barrel is rather flimsy - four self-tapping screws screwed into the plastic. At the same time, significant lateral loads can occur on the hose, which is attached directly to the filter. Therefore, the attachment of the filter to the barrel must be strengthened. People approach this problem in different ways. Basically, they collect an additional stiffening frame for the filter. The designs are varied, but the idea is something like this:

I approached this a little differently. A holder for pipes of a suitable diameter was welded onto one of the rods.

In this holder, I clamp the hose, which accounts for all the twists and jerks. Thus, the filter housing is protected from any stress. Now the unit can be pulled behind you right by the hose without fear of damaging anything.

I decided to fix the barrel with tie-down straps. When choosing locks in a hardware store, I made an interesting observation. A five-meter tie-down strap with a foreign-made ratchet lock cost me 180 rubles, and a naked frog-type lock lying nearby Russian production would cost me 250 rubles. That's where the triumph of domestic engineering and high technology.

Experience has shown that this method of fastening has an important advantage. The fact is that on the forums dedicated to these filters they write that barrels like mine, when connected to a powerful vacuum cleaner, can be crushed due to the vacuum that occurs when the inlet hose is clogged. Therefore, during the tests, I deliberately blocked the opening of the hose and, under the influence of vacuum, the barrel shrank. But due to the very tight grip of the clamps, the barrel did not shrink completely, but only in one place below the hoop a dent appeared. And when I turned off the vacuum cleaner, the dent straightened itself with a click.

At the top of the unit is a platform for a vacuum cleaner

As a household vacuum cleaner, I bought a bagless almost two-kilowatt monster. I was already thinking, and at home I would need such a thing.
When buying a vacuum cleaner on an ad, I encountered some inexplicable human stupidity and greed. The people sell used things without a guarantee, with a depleted part of the resource, shortcomings in appearance at prices below the store by some 15-20 percent. And okay, these would be some running things, but second-hand vacuum cleaners! Judging by the period of placement of ads, this trade sometimes drags on for years. And as soon as you start haggling and calling an adequate price, you come across rudeness and misunderstanding.
As a result, after a couple of days, I still found for myself great option for 800 rubles. Well-known brand, 1900 watts, built-in cyclone filter (already the second in my system) and another fine filter.
For its fastening, I did not come up with anything more elegant than pressing it with a tie-down strap. In principle, it holds securely.

I had to fiddle a bit with the hose connections. As a result, we have such a setting. And she works!

Usually when you read reviews from the first use of such gizmos, people choke with delight. Here is something similar and I experienced the first time I turned it on. It's no joke - vacuuming in the workshop! Where everyone walks in street shoes, where metal shavings and sawdust fly everywhere!

I have never seen this concrete floor, impossible to sweep due to dust stuck in the pores, so clean before. Persistent attempts to sweep it only lead to an increase in the density of dust in the air. And such purity was given to me in a couple of easy movements! I didn't even have to wear a respirator!

In the barrel, we managed to collect what was left after the previous cleaning with a broom. During operation of the device, due to the translucence of the filter, you can observe dust wisps swirling inside. There was also dust in the dust collector of the vacuum cleaner, but it was a small amount and these were especially light and volatile fractions.

Very pleased with the result. No more dust storms in the workshop. You can say I'm going to new era.

Advantages of my design:
1. Occupies a minimum area, due only to the diameter of the barrel.
2. The unit can be dragged and pulled by the hose without being afraid to pull out the filter.
3. The barrel is protected from crushing when the inlet pipe is clogged.

After some time of using the installation, I still ran into the problem of a lack of barrel rigidity.
Bought a more powerful vacuum cleaner. Household, but sucks like a beast - sucks stones, nuts, screws, tears off plaster and pulls bricks out of masonry))
This vacuum cleaner slammed the blue barrel even without clogging the inlet hose! Tight girth of the barrel with clamps did not help. I didn't have my camera with me, sorry. But it looks like this:

Thematic forums warn of such a possibility, but still I did not expect this. With great difficulty he straightened the barrel and sent it, fairly dented, to the dacha to store water. She is not capable of more.

There were two ways out of this situation:
1. Buy a metal barrel instead of a plastic one. But I need to find a barrel of a very specific size so that it fits exactly into my installation - diameter 480, height 800. A superficial search on the Internet did not give a result.
2. Assemble the box yourself right size from 15 mm plywood. Here it is more real.

The box was assembled on self-tapping screws. The joints were sealed with double-sided foam tape.

The trolley had to be altered a little - the rear clamp was digested for a square tank.

The new tank, in addition to strength and volume increased due to right angles, has another important advantage - a wide neck. This allows you to install a trash bag in the tank. It greatly simplifies unloading and makes it much cleaner (I tied the bag right in the tank and took it out and threw it away without dust). old barrel didn't allow it.

The lid was sealed with foam insulation for windows

The lid is held in place by four locks. They create the necessary tension to seal the cover on the foam gasket. A little higher, I wrote about the pricing policy for these frog locks. But I had to fork out.

Well done. Nice, functional, safe. How I love.

Quite often after different kind work remains a large number of fine dust and debris that can only be removed with good vacuum cleaner. A simple home apparatus is not adapted to this. It is necessary to use a high-powered industrial vacuum cleaner. You can make a filter for it yourself.

People who constantly work in the construction industry need to clean up a large amount of various small debris and dust. It can be old plaster, Styrofoam residue, drywall or wood dust. Such garbage is able to settle in a thick layer throughout the room. It is very difficult to sweep this dust with a broom or wipe it with a rag, because due to the large size of the room, such cleaning will take a long time.

The use of a vacuum cleaner in this case is optimal. A conventional product that is used at home is not suitable for these purposes. The ingress of chips or sawdust will clog the vacuum cleaner or completely disable it. And also a large amount of fine dust will quickly clog the dust collector, which will need to be cleaned every 20 minutes.

But construction vacuum cleaners are large, inconvenient to use, maintain and have a very high cost. For this reason, some home craftsmen have learned to enhance the capabilities of their household product by equipping it with a specialized cyclone filter. Such dust collectors can be purchased at a hardware store or made at home with your own hands. On the Internet you can find many drawings of dust collectors for woodworking workshops.

Experts identify the following advantages of cyclone filters:

• no need to constantly buy disposable bags and containers for collecting fine dust;
• small size;
• quiet operation of the device;
• when the filter housing is made of transparent plastic, it is possible to control its contamination;
• high efficiency.

The principle of operation of the cyclone filter

The cyclone consists of several parts:

• pipe branch;
• frame;
• dust collector;
• chamber with membrane filter;
• intake fan.

Dirty air enters the cylindrical body of the product through the nozzle. The branch pipe is located tangentially to the side walls of the body, so the air flow near the walls of the cylinder is twisted in a spiral. Due to centrifugal force, dirt particles are pressed against the body of the device, and then fall into a special dust collector. The remaining air with dust particles enters another chamber, which is equipped with several membrane filters. As a result, all the collected dust enters the intake fan.

The least polluted membrane compartment, which must be cleaned only after cleaning. The collected dust is simply removed from a special drive, and the device is again ready to perform its duties.

Vacuum cleaners with a similar principle of operation are much cheaper than water ones, but more expensive than membrane ones. For this reason, home craftsmen assemble the cyclone on their own, and then connect it to a household vacuum cleaner.

Do-it-yourself cyclone from improvised materials

It is quite easy to assemble a cyclone filter for a vacuum cleaner with your own hands. It is often needed in the processing of wood. Together with a fraser or an electric planer, a membrane-type vacuum cleaner clogs very quickly and needs to be cleaned frequently, which greatly distracts from the production process. When the master is engaged in carpentry in a small room, then small sawdust create a lot of problems. For this purpose, a cyclone was designed and manufactured from simple parts, which is not inferior to its factory counterparts.

Materials for manufacturing

To make homemade cyclone, the following materials will be needed:

Assembling a cyclone for a household vacuum cleaner

A special bracket is fixed on the lid of the plastic container for a small air filter, which can be made from a metal strip or corners. The air filter must fit very tightly to the plastic lid of the container. Otherwise, air with dust will enter the outlet pipe. Next, the outlet pipe must be hermetically fixed on top of the cover. Through it, the purified air will enter the household vacuum cleaner. Experts advise leaving the membrane filter of a household product. This will help keep the fan free from dirt and will not reduce the airflow.

Near the air filter, it is worth putting a special dust deflector, which is assembled from a thin metal sheet. This element is able to fight off small particles of dirt that do not fall under the influence of gravity, which allows you to clean the filter much less often. The same work can be done by an old women's stocking, which protects the pores of the filter from large and light parts of dust.

The self-made inlet pipe must be positioned tangentially to the walls of the case and tilted slightly towards the bottom of the device. Dirty air will immediately be sent to direction. In order for the walls of the container not to collapse from the vacuum environment, they must be well reinforced with a strip of metal. Plastic containers are not able to withstand heavy loads, because the material is quite thin. Since the fixture is large, it is worth making a plywood frame, which does not hurt to equip with small swivel wheels.

Next, you need to qualitatively fix the assembled filter and household vacuum cleaner to the frame. The mount must ensure quick dismantling in order to clean the container from the collected debris. At the end of the work, you need to test the device. At the bottom plastic container all rubbish should be left.

How to make a water filter for a vacuum cleaner

When a person does not need a professional construction vacuum cleaner, it is possible to make a water chip filter in another way. For example, it can be made from an ordinary traffic cone. Any plastic container with dense walls and a well-closing lid will serve as a dust collector. It is worth noting that plastic container acts as an air system, and leakage has a bad effect on the power of the device. It is necessary to cut off the reference square from the traffic cone. According to the resulting shape of the hole, you need to cut out the top cover from plywood.

An outlet pipe is fixed to the top cover with a sealant, which should be made from ordinary sewer pipe. This part must be lowered to the middle of the building cone. When it is raised higher, the dust swirl will be wrong. If the outlet pipe goes too low, dirt will be sucked into it.

The narrow end of the traffic cone is also hermetically sealed into a plywood circle that attaches to the trash bin. It is worth checking the tightness of all seams and connections several times. An inlet pipe is placed near the upper cut of the cone, into which dirty air will enter.

Next, you need to check the correct assembly of the dust collector. The outlet pipe must be connected to the inlet of a household vacuum cleaner using a factory hose. Therefore, the nozzle should be selected in accordance with the diameter of the vacuum cleaner hose. The waste collection hose is connected to the inlet of the product. A test run is required. When the device is assembled correctly, all debris will accumulate at the bottom of the plastic container, and the membrane filter of the household vacuum cleaner should remain clean.

The shape for the cone can be made by hand. For example, to make from metal sheet, having previously calculated the development of the product. And an old bucket made of galvanized metal may also come up.