Solid fuel boilers drawings dimensions. How to make solid fuel boilers with your own hands, types, step-by-step installation guide

Solid fuel boilers are not only a way to provide heating system at home, but also to save on energy resources.

Is it really so profitable to make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands? Or is it better to buy a ready-made unit from a reliable manufacturer? For example, on the Teplodar website https://www.teplodar.ru/catalog/tverdotoplivnye-kotly/ 11 models of solid fuel heating boilers and 37 of their modifications are presented.

Before getting inspired by the idea of ​​​​creating a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you should figure out what designs are generally in use today. In general, all existing developments can be divided into 4 groups:

• traditional boilers,
• pyrolysis wood (gas-generating),
• long burning,
• pellet boilers.

Traditional designs resemble an ordinary stove for a home or a potbelly stove with a minimum of what is needed - a window for loading fuel, a furnace, an ash pan and a chimney. The ashpit often also acts as a damper, with which the draft is regulated. No automation, electronics, thermometers and other details for you, which means there is much less chance that something will fail. The main structural element of a solid fuel boiler is a heat exchanger, through which the coolant receives a "charge" of thermal energy. The heat exchanger can be tubular or a water tank made of solid steel sheets.

However, today boilers can also be called traditional, which differ more complex system throttle valves and baffles inside the units - with their help, you can more finely adjust the air draft, as well as increase the path of hot air to the pipe. Thanks to the partitions, the efficiency of the boiler increases - the device gives off more thermal energy to the coolant, less hot air enters the pipe.

Such boilers are practically omnivorous. Coal, firewood, pellets, and even garbage - as long as it's dry, as long as it burns. Of course, absolutely simple designs do not differ in economy - their efficiency barely reaches 50%, and often is only 15-20 percent. Such low rates are due to the fact that fuel combustion occurs in a very short period of time, too much thermal energy is released, which simply flies out into the pipe, or the coolant overheats. The same firewood burns out in a matter of minutes, and to maintain heat inside the house, you will have to carry out a full load of firewood at least once an hour. Coal burns for 2–4 hours, again releasing too much energy. More modern boilers with throttle valves and baffles are free from this drawback, they are capable of delivering all 80% efficiency and burning at full load for up to 8–12 hours, depending on the material, by regulating the combustion temperature.

Pyrolysis boilers for the home run on the same solid fuel, but they use a completely different principle of operation, giving out an order of magnitude more thermal energy and heating the house on one tab many times longer. It is not surprising that such units cost one and a half to two times more expensive than classic ones. solid fuel devices. What's the point? The essence of the pyrolysis (gas-generating) boiler is the so-called dry distillation of fuel - under the influence high temperatures and with a lack of oxygen, the wood releases pyrolysis gas, and charcoal remains in the furnace.

The pyrolysis reaction is carried out at a temperature of 200 to 800 ° C, and this process occurs with the release of thermal energy, which is used to dry firewood and warm the air. Then the pyrolysis gas enters the combustion chamber, where it mixes with air and ignites - this is how the bulk of the thermal energy is obtained. It should be noted that during the combustion of pyrolysis gas, active carbons also participate in oxidation processes, as a result of which the smoke at the outlet of the chimney practically does not contain harmful compounds, it consists mainly of water vapor and carbon dioxide. However, the release of CO2 into environment three times less than in the case of using conventional wood or coal boilers. It will be necessary to clean the pyrolysis unit much less often - in the process of such a phased combustion of fuel, a minimum of ash and soot is formed, almost everything burns out.

In addition to the advantages associated with high efficiency, it should be noted that high temperatures can be obtained even from damp firewood. Secondly, the processes of combustion of pyrolysis gas are easily controlled by automation, which allows you to timely regulate the intensity of combustion and save fuel.

The maximum power of pyrolysis units is achieved when using dry wood (10–20% moisture content). In general, the use of raw fuel reduces the power of the boiler by almost 50%, while fuel consumption doubles. Is it possible to make a pyrolysis boiler for the house with your own hands? This is not only difficult, but also dangerous - design errors can even lead to the explosion of such a home-made unit.

This design will appeal to those who are not often at home or do not want to constantly load fuel. Long-burning units are a type of solid fuel boiler in which the combustion (smoldering) process occurs in the upper part of the fuel layer, respectively, and air is supplied from above. A built-in water circuit runs along the entire diameter of the body, thanks to which the coolant warms up well, regardless of the depth at which combustion occurs. Due to the burning of only the upper layer, the duration of the boiler on one load of firewood is up to 30 hours, and some models that are suitable for any type of fuel can work on coal for almost a week! Most boilers do not have any volatile equipment, and they are relatively inexpensive and can be built on your own.

True, such structures also have disadvantages, in particular, it is impossible to throw fuel in the process of burning the boiler. Wet firewood is not suitable for the firebox, it must be well dried to at least 20% moisture and sawn into short bars. If you heat with coal, then only high-quality coal, with a low content of slags. Another significant disadvantage is the limited capacity of the units. Most of the most popular models operate within 40 kW.

Let's also mention pellet boilers - this is a type of solid fuel, with the only difference being that instead of firewood or coal, fuel pellets from woodworking industry waste are used. Most of the units are equipped with a special bunker, from where the fuel enters the furnace in automatic mode.

It doesn’t matter if you are making a solid fuel boiler with your own hands or are going to buy it ready-made - you should strive to get a unit with optimal performance. What kind of indicators should a good unit have?

Let's start with which heat exchanger is better - steel or cast iron. Cast iron cannot be made at home - you will need not only skills, but also foundry equipment, which you can’t just buy in a store. Most ready-made models for the home are represented by sectional structures that are separated from each other during transportation and reassembled during installation. During operation, cast iron is covered with the so-called dry rust, which, as a rule, does not progress and serves as a kind of protective film. Wet corrosion also proceeds much more slowly, which determines the durability of cast iron products - some manufacturers give a guarantee for 10 years of operation, and in general, such a house can last 25 years. The advantage of cast iron heat exchangers is that they are easier to maintain - they need to be cleaned infrequently, since even a significant deposit does not reduce the efficiency of the boiler. Repairing the boiler or increasing its power is also very simple - by replacing sections or adding their number. Among the main disadvantages are:

• the large weight of the boiler, which is why it even needs a separate foundation,
• high costs during transportation and inconvenience during installation,
• fear of thermal shock - you can not load cold firewood into the furnace, supply cold water to the heated system, etc.,
• high thermal inertia - they heat up for a long time, but also cool down for a long time.

Steel is much more elastic than cast iron, and therefore the temperature difference is not terrible for it, even if cold water. Thanks to this ability, it is permissible to use sensitive automation in solid fuel boilers made of steel. In addition, due to less inertia, such boilers heat up faster and cool down faster, which allows you to quickly adjust the temperature in the premises.

Steel boilers are a monolithic welded structure, which makes the transportation of the unit more difficult, although in general the weight of the boiler is much less and it is not as afraid of mechanical damage as cast iron. As for maintainability, the opinions of experts are divided here - someone believes that after the appearance of a leak, it is better to throw the boiler away, since at home it is impossible to create a weld of the same quality as at the factory, and someone claims the opposite. Apparently, it all depends on the individual skill of handling welding. However, in any case, the repair of a cast-iron unit looks easier - you just need to replace the leaky section.

Most cast iron units are independent of power supplies, and there are many of them among steel ones - they are cheaper and do not require the installation of circulation pumps. True, when installing heating radiators, a special system should be followed so that the coolant under the natural pressure that occurs inside the boiler when heated moves through the pipes. Due to the low cost, it is recommended to purchase such boilers even if the house already has a heating unit - it will help you out during power outages.

A brick solid fuel boiler for the home is one of the simplest and most popular in rural conditions. Often such boilers can be seen in kitchens - there they combine several functions. And most importantly, even a person who has never picked up welding machine.

From the tools you will need a grinder with metal discs, welding, electrodes, oven bricks and a mortar for laying it, sheet metal, corners, pipes. If you really do not have welding skills, it is better to stop only at marking and cutting parts, and get the welding work done by an experienced, knowledgeable person. Still, the welds in the heat exchangers must be of very high quality.

The advantage of a home-made boiler is that you yourself can calculate its power, dimensions, and choose the dimensions of the fuel combustion chamber. If desired, you can install a stove for cooking or fodder for livestock, or make a brick vault that will accumulate heat during the combustion of fuel and give it to the system.

Most often you can find a horizontal design of the register, which is made of round pipes with a diameter of 40-50 mm and a rectangular profile. The latter simplifies the joining of pipes and allows you to make better seams.

How to make a solid fuel boiler - step by step diagram

Step 1: Cut the blanks

Using a grinder, we cut the pipes and a rectangular profile into segments of the desired length. In segments of a rectangular profile that will serve as vertical posts, round holes for pipes should be made. This is done using cutting torch. In total, you need 4 holes for pipes with a diameter of 50 mm in the front pillars, and 4 more of the same diameter in the rear. Don't forget to cut holes for connecting to heating system. All sagging that formed during welding or cutting should be sanded with a grinder so that they do not interfere with the circulation of water. Step 3: Removal and supply of coolant

When the structure is assembled, it is necessary to weld pipe sections for the removal and supply of coolant. You should also brew rectangular pipes from the end with pieces of metal 60 mm by 40 mm.

Step 4: Case check

Before installing the heat exchanger, do not forget to check its tightness. This is done easily and simply - the structure is installed vertically, the bottom hole is closed by any convenient way, and water is poured through the top. In the absence of leaks, you can safely mount the heat exchanger.

Next, the finished heat exchanger is mounted in a brick building, which is built according to the same rules as any stove. There must be a gap of at least 1 cm between the brick and the heat exchanger. It is very important to set the heat exchanger so that there is a slight rise towards the exit point hot water. The difference between the exit point and the right front upper corner should be at least 1 cm. This technique is necessary to improve the circulation of the coolant and prevent the occurrence of an air lock when the system is filled with water.

The brick wall is brought out 3-4 cm above the heat exchanger pipes. top covered with a cast iron plate. The chimney can be metal or brick at your discretion - a solid fuel boiler can also be led into an existing smoke channel.

All home-made give part of the necessary heat to chimney, and the higher and straighter pipe, the greater the losses. To increase the efficiency of the unit, the first step is to complicate the path of smoke escape - to make a heating shield, which is an elongated and curved chimney in many places. Passing through these channels, the smoke gives off all the heat to the brick, and the brick, in turn, heats the room. Often heating panels are mounted in interior walls Thus, several rooms are heated at once.

But to use this opportunity, you must either install the boiler in the basement or attach a multi-stage chimney to the wall, which takes up a lot of space. Another way to effectively use thermal energy- install a water heater that will provide you with warm water heated by hot gases escaping through the chimney. The easiest way to build such a structure is from metal pipes different diameters - a smaller pipe, placed inside a container from a pipe of a larger diameter, will serve as a chimney and at the same time a heating element, transferring heat to the water.

And most importantly, by installing a circulation pump in an existing system, you automatically increase efficiency by 20-30%.

Natural circulation is definitely needed when the house is out of power, but the rest of the time, turn on the pump and enjoy the rapid increase in air temperature in the house.

The shaft-type boiler is distinguished by the fact that the firewood in it burns for a long time, since it has a large volume of the combustion chamber.

Design and principle of operation

There are two types of long-burning mine boiler:

1. Device with .
2. pyrolysis unit.

They consist of two cameras, which divide the boiler into two vertical parts. Firewood burns in the first, heat exchanger in the second.

The device of a mine boiler with conventional combustion is simpler:

1. Firebox. She is is 50% or more of the volume the entire device. This part of the long-burning boiler has a large height (almost equal to the height of the unit), a small width and depth.
2. Loading hatch. Located on the top or side of the firebox.
3. Ash chamber. Hosted under the firebox.
4. Grate. He separates the ash and combustion chambers.
5. Ash door. It has such dimensions that allow you to get not only access to the ash pan, but also to the bottom of the firebox. It is placed on it air control damper.
6. Heat exchange chamber. Inside it is water or fire tube heat exchanger. It has a hole through which the carbon monoxide formed in the furnace enters.
7. Chimney. It has a shutter.

Such a mine boiler works as follows:

1. Firewood is set on fire in the firebox.
2. Hot carbon monoxide exits through an opening into the heat exchange chamber.
3. The gas heats the coolant.
4. The cooled smoke exits through the chimney, and the heated water goes into the heating system.

Pyrolysis long-burning shaft boiler has almost the same design, but it is more difficult. The difference lies in the presence of:

1. Combustion chambers and afterburning of carbon monoxide. Placed at the bottom of the heat exchange chamber. Their walls are made of fireclay bricks.
2. Secondary air supply pipes. It is located inside the combustion chamber. A feature of the pipe is the presence of a large number of holes.
3. Gate valves at the top of the wall that separates the two chambers.

Such a mine boiler works differently: pyrolysis is created in the furnace by igniting firewood and then limiting the air supply through the ash door.

During pyrolysis, wood is decomposed into coke and various combustible gases. The latter enter the combustion chamber, mix with air and burn. The remaining gases burn out in the afterburner. The generated heat heats the coolant.

Read also: Parapet boilers

materials

For the manufacture of a mine-type pyrolysis boiler, you need to stock up:

1. Sheet steel with lining. Thickness 3-5 mm. Other steel should not be used, since pyrolysis is accompanied by high temperatures and the usual alloy quickly burns out.
2. sheet steel with 1-2 mm thick.
3. Chamotte brick.
4. Pipes with a diameter 13, 5 and 2.5 cm.
5. Corners with dimensions of 4x4 cm. An alternative may be a profile pipe with the same dimensions.
6. Double ash door. It is desirable that it has an asbestos gasket. It must have a valve to regulate the air supply.
7. Door for cleaning the heat exchange chamber.
8. Gate valves. 3 pcs. One is designed for, the second will be installed on the partition between the chambers, the third is necessary to regulate the air supply to the combustion chamber.
9. Basalt wool.
10. Galvanized sheet.

When choosing a drawing, great attention should be paid to the volume of the furnace. The larger the volume, the longer the burning will be.

Production of the main part

The main part is a self-made body, which is divided into chambers with various functional devices. The body is made like this:

1. They study the drawing of a home-made unit and determine the dimensions of all metal parts.
2. Draw on the lined sheet steel rectangles that will walls and individual metal parts of a homemade boiler mine type.
3. Cut sheet steel into pieces. This is best done using oxy-fuel welding.
4. Weld the side walls of the body.
5. In the sheet, which will be a partition between the combustion and heat exchange chambers, cut two holes: one should be at the top, the other - just above the level of the grate. It is desirable that the height of the second hole is 3 cm.
6. They put the workpiece inside the body, fix it as indicated in the drawing or the watched video, and weld it. A valve is installed on the upper hole and its base is welded. The valve must be on the side of the firebox. On the other hand, a neck is welded with a depth of 4 cm.
7. A grate is being made. For this in a piece of sheet steel with a lining cut longitudinal narrow holes. The grate can be purchased, but must be made of steel with a lining. A cast iron product is not suitable, since it will warp in a few months of operation of a home-made mine-type boiler.
8. Weld the grate.
9. Holes are cut in the side walls for the ash door and the door for cleaning the afterburner chamber. Necks must be welded along the perimeter of the holes. They must protrude outward and inward by 6 and 3 cm, respectively. The neck for the hole in the afterburner is best welded after the heat exchanger has been welded.
10. Welded to the inner walls of the thermal chamber two rows of corners or profile pipe . The top row is placed 3-4 cm from the top. The lower one is at the level of the bottom of the afterburning chamber. These corners will become part of the water jacket. It is impossible to make a water jacket around the pyrolysis chamber, because pyrolysis will be disturbed because of this.
11. Weld the heat exchanger with inside water jacket(its manufacture is described below).
12. The bottom of the combustion chamber is welded. It should be at the level of the grate. At the same time, one third of it should be horizontal, and the rest should rise upward at an angle. The angle depends on the drawing. The part that is located near the internal partition is made horizontal.
13. Cut out above the bottom air pipe hole.
14. Drilled in a pipe with a diameter of 5 cm a large number of holes and weld it to the hole in the body. In this case, the pipe is placed so that it protrudes 6 cm outside. This part should not have holes. A damper is fixed at the end of the pipe.
15. lining the walls of the combustion chamber fireclay bricks. To fit the material to the desired dimensions, it is cut. The top of the chamber should be a protruding brick. between bricks should be hole for further movement of pyrolysis gas.
16. A similar process is done in the afterburner.

If you do not want to spend money on expensive gas and other boilers, then you will probably be interested in how you can make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands. The efficiency of such a boiler is approximately on the same level as the furnace, and making a boiler with your own hands is not so difficult as it might seem at first glance.

Drawings of solid fuel boilers can be easily found in open sources and focus on them at work. Today we will tell you how you can make a solid fuel boiler with your own hands and what is required for this.

The design of solid fuel units

There are different designs of solid fuel boilers. Some are designed so that with their help you can not only heat the house and heat water, but also cook food. This will increase the efficiency of the solid fuel boiler and reduce the cost of space heating.

To work on the manufacture of a solid fuel boiler with your own hands drawings, materials and tools will be required. The solid fuel type boiler consists of the following elements:

• burning box solid fuel, which is equipped with grates for supplying air in the right amount;
• throttle valves for closing the channels after the extinction of the flame and controlling the force of air draft;
• liquid reservoir. Water in the heating system serves as a heat carrier. The reservoir may be a tubular heat exchanger;
• chimney to create draft, which brings the combustion products of the fuel out.

In addition, an important, but optional element of the system is a thermal accumulator, which evenly distributes heat throughout the premises. This is a metal container. right size, which is installed by hand on a solid fuel unit, and accumulates thermal energy with an active firebox. When the furnace is temporarily suspended, the carrier circulates through the highways by blowing air.

It is also possible to install an additional domestic hot liquid tank above the thermal accumulator in order to provide better comfort for residents.

Before starting work on assembling a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you need to make drawings of the boiler and the entire heating system. Such drawings can be found on the Internet and ready-made, but it is better to adapt them to your home, since you need to create your own approach to each heating system.

Tools and materials for work

To assemble a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, you need to prepare the following:

To purchase Construction Materials at a bargain price, it is best to contact a company that deals with metal rolling, and can provide a good discount.

Boiler assembly work involves welding, so the complete list of working tools looks like that:

• inverter or other welding machine that can be used at home;
• measuring instruments, including tape measure, building level and corners;
• high power grinder;
• electric drill with drills;
• pliers and tongs.

You need to start work only if you have the skills to work with welding and other tools that will be required when assembling the boiler.

Creating a solid fuel boiler with your own hands

With the competent organization of the assembly workflow, there will be nothing complicated in the work. It is advisable to carry out the assembly of the boiler in a specially designated room, for example, in a workshop. Details for the boiler make on a workbench.

Features of the manufacture of body parts

The key element of any heating boiler, regardless of what fuel it will run on, is the firebox. To make a firebox with your own hands, you only need quality materials, which can withstand maximum temperature loads up to a thousand degrees. So, body manufacturing process boiler consists of the following:

To make such a square-shaped hole, you need steel apply markings, then take an electric drill and make holes in the corners. Next, a through cut is made with an angle grinder and is carried out from the center to the edge.

Production of water tank and heat exchanger

In order for a solid fuel boiler to be as efficient as possible, it should be equipped with two water tanks. They are made on the basis of sheets of of stainless steel, from which you need to cut rectangles of the desired size and weld with each other. Remember that for welding you need not only to have a special apparatus, but also have relevant skills, or entrust this work to professionals by contacting a specialized workshop.

A heat exchanger is a set simple pipes used in plumbing. They are welded to each other so that they eventually form a so-called flow cycle, which has the maximum allowable external area. Thus, it is possible to achieve the most efficient heat transfer between the coolant and the combustible fuel.

Features of the assembly of a solid fuel boiler

It is worth noting that the design of heating devices is such that there is a lot of metal in them, naturally, this affects their weight. Therefore, the assembly of the finished boiler must be carried out at the place of its direct installation.

The assembly includes the following steps:

Sand for this purpose should be used well washed, it should not contain any dirt or any organic elements. Before work, it will need to be calcined on a flame in order to burn out everything unnecessary from it. If this is not done in advance, then an extremely unpleasant odor will form during the operation of the boiler.

The last stage of work is in the installation of the top plate. All finished stainless steel tanks must be placed on top of the stove and connected to the appropriate circuits of the system. Then you need to put the doors of each hopper in place and do a test run of the unit to check how it works.

One of the requirements that is put forward to boilers using any fuel, regardless of the place of use, is high efficiency. They must also have low thermal inertia and have a fast power control function.

Also, you should choose a heater on one or another fuel, depending on the area where you live. A solid fuel boiler is best suited for regions with a cold climate and severe winter frosts.

If you want to assemble a solid fuel boiler with your own hands, then with the right approach and strict observance of the instructions, you will receive an economical heating unit and save a lot of money on its purchase, installation and operation.

Long-burning boilers have become in demand with the growth of private housing construction. The purchase of an industrial heating device costs a significant amount. Do-it-yourself boilers allow you to reduce costs. A competent drawing, the ability to properly understand it, and careful following of the instructions will help any potential user accomplish this task.

How to make a long burning boiler

This group includes heat generators with a furnace, the dimensions of which are increased compared to ordinary models. A larger amount of solid fuel provides a longer burning time and a greater amount of heat generated. Manufacturers offer ready-made boilers with the following indicators of the duration of fuel burning until its next bookmark:

• firewood and wood industry waste - up to 12 hours;
• coal - up to 24 hours.

Other alternative fuels are used for heating:

• briquetted peat;
• packaged pressed woodworking waste - sawdust, shavings, bark;
• birch charcoal;
• packaged products from landfill processing.

Reference! Conventional fuels are considered the cheapest sawdust provided that their humidity does not exceed 20%.

A boiler with the same operating parameters can be made independently. Before starting work, it is necessary to determine the characteristics of the future unit. Significant parameters for boilers are:

• power;
• duration of burning;
• coefficient useful action(efficiency);
• maximum allowable working pressure;
• nominal pressure in the system;
• total and useful volume of the furnace;
• furnace depth;
• maximum log length;
• volume of the tank;
• boiler weight.

These parameters will be individual for each type of boilers.

Reference! The heating area depends on the power of the boiler. A boiler with insufficient power will not be able to heat the entire building completely.

The operation of this type of heat generator is based on physical property heat generated during fuel combustion is transferred to the heat exchanger. The method of heat transfer depends on the design of the heat exchanger.

Burn time is affected by:

• fuel tank volume;
• the degree of isolation of the chimney draft from air entering it (solid fuel in the furnace should slowly smolder, and not flare up).

The manufacture of the boiler begins with the choice of its design and the task that it must solve:

According to the location of the furnace, boilers are:

• with top burning;
• with lower combustion (less productive in terms of load volume and burning time until the next bookmark).

Body shape:

• cylinder;
• rectangle.

Necessary materials and tools

The first stage of work is preparation materials and components. For work you will need:

• steel with low carbon content 3-4 mm thick;

Important! Steel grades St 35 and higher are unsuitable for conventional welding due to the high carbon content.

Attention! You can buy ready-made cast-iron doors, matched to the size of the firebox.

• asbestos cardboard - for thermal insulation of doors;
• asbestos cord;
• electrodes;
• control Panel;
• fan;
• temperature sensor;
• door handles.

Reference! Control panel, sensor and fan will be used for automatic control boiler operation.

The main tools that you will need for work:

• Bulgarian;
• grinding wheels;
• welding machine;

Attention! The metal sheet is best cut into blanks using guillotine cutting in the production workshop. hand cutting takes a lot of time and requires additional grinding of the cut edges.

• drill;
• roulette;
• marker;
• calipers;
• compressor (for testing the boiler).

A simple long-burning boiler: drawing

On fig. 1 shows a drawing of a simple boiler with a lower furnace. For the manufacture of a rectangular body and a heat exchanger, mild steel sheet is used. The heat exchanger is designed as a "water jacket". The heat transfer coefficient (COP) is increased due to the design of protrusions inside the boiler, reflecting the flame and heating gas.

Rice. 1 Boiler with "water jacket"

On fig. 2 shows a combined water jacket type heat exchanger (2) formed around the combustion chamber plus a slot register (3) made of steel sheet. The combustion products exit through the flue pipe (1). Solid fuel (5) burns in the lower part of the chamber. Below it is the air regulator (8).

Rice. 2 Slot register boiler

Top burning boiler

The drawing of the camera is shown in Fig.3. The cylinder-shaped boiler is made from pipes of different diameters. Air is supplied through a moving pipe that extends upwards to release the firebox when fuel needs to be loaded. When burned, it begins to decrease in volume and with it the pipe also falls smoothly down under the weight of its weight. Uniform fuel supply is achieved using a disk welded to the base of the pipe.

The heat exchanger is designed as a "water jacket" enveloping the combustion chamber. Air heating occurs in the upper part of the boiler.

Rice. 3. Top combustion boiler

DIY solid fuel boiler

Consider the example of the most popular boiler with upper combustion (Fig. 3). If necessary, the dimensions can be changed in proportion to those indicated in the drawing. Distinctive feature design is a pipe that serves as an air supply regulator and a heat exchanger at the same time. The gases released during the smoldering of the fuel rise up and ignite in the upper furnace.

For manufacturing, the materials described in section 2 are required: pipes, sheet steel, angle, insulation, asbestos cardboard, electrodes.

The first stage of a homemade boiler includes the following steps:

Important! Due to the temperature difference, moisture (condensate) will form on the surface of the pipe, leading to corrosion, so the welds must be of high quality.

1. Legs from an equal angle are welded to the boiler body.
2. Cut out the top cover with a diameter of 46 cm, which will be put on top of the cylindrical body.

DIY heat exchanger for a solid fuel boiler

The second stage is the production of a heat exchanger:

1. A heat exchanger pipe with a diameter of 40 cm and a length of 130 cm is welded from a metal sheet.
2. Insert it into a cylindrical body, fix a gap of 5 cm between the pipes, due to which a “water jacket” will form.
3. The difference in the length of the pipes of the heat exchanger and the outer must be at least 20cm. The pipe in the pipe is fixed by welding using prepared metal rings.
4. Branch pipes are installed in the upper and lower zones of the water jacket: one for supply, the other for the outlet of the coolant. For their manufacture, a pipe with a diameter of 5 cm is used, a thread is screwed on the outside, through which they will be connected to the pipes of the heating system.
5. The distribution pipe through which air will be supplied is welded from a metal of greater thickness than for the housing and heat exchanger (at least 5 mm with a diameter of 6 cm). The length of the pipe is made 10 cm less than the length of the heat exchanger pipe (120 cm).

Important! The distribution pipe is located in the zone of high temperatures and deforms and burns out over time, therefore, for its manufacture, metal with a thickness of 5 mm or more is used.

1. The pipe is inserted into the prepared disc with a prepared hole. A metal steel disc with a diameter of 38 cm is welded to the pipe.
2. At least 4 corners are welded to the base of the disk, acting as an impeller.
3. A valve for batch air supply is installed to the upper part of the pipe and a loop is welded on which a chain is fixed to lift the pipe.

Attention! To improve heat transfer, a forced air fan is installed in the upper part of the pipe.

How to properly assemble the boiler

After completing the two main stages, proceed to the final one.

The third stage is the assembly of the boiler:

1. They choose the installation location of the boiler, check the level so that there are no drops that could impair the operation of the heat generator.
2. The cover with the distribution pipe is pulled onto the body, having previously laid the asbestos cord. The cover can also be welded to the body.
3. The flue pipe is inserted into the chimney.
4. Through the outlet threaded pipes, the boiler is connected to the heating system of the house.
5. The system is filled with water and the operation of the boiler is checked when it is not fully loaded.
6. If the test went well, the boiler is loaded at full capacity.

Most solid-state boilers have one significant drawback - the fuel in them burns out very quickly and must be monitored in order to have time to put the next portion. However, this entails irrational use firewood, briquettes, pellets and, as a result, high costs for heating.

The solution to this problem can be a purchased or home-made long-burning wood-burning boiler, which will maintain their long-term smoldering and high temperature. Certain factory models can even work without lining the fires for up to 20-25 hours. In addition, they are able to be heated by other types of solid fuels, including waste that can be burned.

The principle of operation of the long-burning boiler

The basic principle of operation of long-term boilers is based not on the combustion of fuel, but on its smoldering inside the combustion chamber. At this point, wood fires radiate more heat. To achieve such a result in the classical brick ovens impossible, since they cannot create active traction.

The design features of the long-burning stove make it possible to achieve the maximum efficiency of heat release during long-term slow smoldering of wood. In self-made installations, one bookmark can last more than 6-8 hours.

The boiler is equipped with a special valve -. After the logs begin to burn profusely, it must be blocked and the supply of oxygen with air inside should be reduced as much as possible. Gradually smoldering, firewood emits the so-called "flue gas", consisting of methane, carbon monoxide and hydrogen.

The main source of heat is precisely the "flue gas". When it enters the ignition chamber, it ignites, burns out very quickly and releases a large amount of energy.

See also instructions on how to

How is everything arranged?

It is recommended to make a long-burning boiler on wood with steel pipes or barrels with a diameter of about 30-40 cm. At the same time, the wall thickness is charmingly no less than 3-5 mm, otherwise the metal will quickly burn out, the installation will become unusable. In height, it can reach 0.8-1 m - the higher, the more firewood can be laid. However, one should not exaggerate too much.

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The installation is divided into three conditional parts:

1. Combustion zone - smoke is removed in it and the hall smolders
2. Burning zone - directly in it, the fuel slowly smolders
3. Loading zone - it gradually decreases in height, as firewood and briquettes burn out

The air distributor is one of the main devices of the furnace, since it directly affects the duration of smoldering, limiting the zone in which combustion occurs. It is a round disk made of sheet steel with a thickness of more than 4 mm, in which a pipe is located in the middle - through it air enters the furnace. In order for the distributor to descend unhindered as the fuel smolders, its size is made slightly smaller than the furnace.

To control the size of the combustion zone through which air circulates, the distributor has an impeller up to 5 cm high. If you make it larger, the free space inside will increase and the firewood will burn out very quickly.

The diameter of the pipe for air intake is made equal to 5-6 cm. It can be solid or telescopic. In this case, the hole in the distributor should not exceed 2 cm, otherwise oxygen oversaturation will occur. At the top there will be a damper that will allow you to adjust the draft.

A home-made long-burning wood-fired boiler can also be connected to heating in a private house. This can be done using one of two methods:

• A water heat exchanger pipe is passed through the combustion chamber, in the tank the water will be heated by a coil connected directly to this pipe
• The chimney is passed through an external tank. Hot smoke will pass through it and heat the coolant

If we compare both methods, it should be noted: the first is much simpler, but the second is several times more effective.

Video - do-it-yourself wood-fired boiler

Manufacturing instructions

Starting the production process, you need to start by preparing all the essentials:

• Pipes with the following diameters - 30 cm, 5-6 cm, 10 cm (the wall thickness of each is at least 3 mm)
• Steel sheet over 4 mm thick
• Bulgarian
• Apparatus for welding
• Hand tools

Getting to the manufacture of the boiler:

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Chimney and reflector

The walls of the boiler will constantly heat up and radiate thermal energy. If the unit is mounted for heating a small room, reflectors should be placed around it - they will distribute the flow, increasing the flow of heat into the inside.

If it is located in a room with a constant stay of people, you should think about their safety. One of the options for resolving the issue is to overlay the structure with brickwork.

The chimney can be made from a 20 mm pipe. The horizontal straight section should be 5-10 cm larger than the diameter of the furnace. It is necessary to take it outside with a minimum number of kinks - 2 by 45 degrees.

A few other features:

• It is recommended to make the chimney collapsible so that it can be easily cleaned of soot 2-3 times a season
• The sections of the chimney must be connected in the direction opposite to the movement of gas
• All structures and objects that are subject to easy ignition must be taken to a safe distance.

We build the foundation

It can be assumed that a long-burning wood-burning stove will constantly heat up to high temperatures. A simple leveled floor is not the best for her best solution- you need to build a foundation.

The base can be laid out of burnt brick or buta. They don't get hot when exposed to elevated temperatures. All those who wish to make a more solid foundation can pour a solid monolithic slab.

The boiler can also be installed on legs, which are easily welded from the channel. They hide from the eyes behind the brickwork.

Boiler use

Air must enter the long-burning boiler on wood, in contrast to the classical stove, in a certain amount. To achieve this, the bookmark must be made in in full trying not to leave empty cavities. It is recommended to add sawdust, pellets, peat or combustible garbage to logs.

Fill fuel according to the following instructions:

1. Remove the cap and remove the regulator from the tank
2. Put fuel tight
3. Spray flammable liquid on top
4. Install the regulator, cover with a lid and open the damper
5. Throw a torch into the air pipe and, when smoldering begins, cover the damper

Summing up

A simple long-burning wood-burning boiler is ready. You can install such a design in any unheated room: from a small garage to a workshop. If everything was done correctly, there is no need to doubt the efficiency and high efficiency.