Do-it-yourself installation of interior doors fixing the box. Proper installation of the door frame of the interior door

To the wall is an important task. Do not neglect its reliable performance. It should be done as well as possible, with high quality.

Keep in mind that if you install the door correctly, you will forget about many problems. It will open and close freely. The effect will last not for a couple of months, but for several years.

The most important thing is the correct adjustment of the gaps that are located between the door frame and the leaf itself. They should be the same both on top and on the side.

You can say: “What's the big deal if the box bulges a couple of millimeters? It won't be noticeable at all!" Yes, we agree with you. The appearance will not deteriorate. But after a while, the door will stop closing. And if it does not stop, then it will be very difficult to do so. That is why fastenings must be made at the highest level.

Neglecting our advice means subsequently changing the entire block. And this is both troublesome and expensive. And in general - it is not necessary.

Because of what the jambs bend: all the reasons

Do you know that door jambs made from wood. And, as you know, the tree perfectly absorbs moisture. Of course, the jambs are varnished on the outside. And this, in theory, should protect the material from water. But the fact is that the varnish perfectly passes moisture.

The result is the following diagram. By absorbing moisture, the tree increases in size. And when it gives it away, its size decreases. The process is natural - but unpleasant.

Jamb installation

Since wood has a heterogeneous structure, it both increases and decreases inhomogeneously. As a result, the shoals bend.

Here it is the main, the only and main cause of the problem. And how to solve it? Yes Easy! Jambs should be well fixed. Then they will remain in their place in any case, even under the influence of external factors.

Experts give a number of tips:

1. first step: insert the frame into the opening. It must be made of metal. And then foam it;
2. the mechanical fastening of the jamb must be made at five points. If you neglect at least one of them, then subsequently the door will become difficult to close. Or there will be other, not the best consequences;
3. if the door is double-leaf, then it should be fixed at six points;
4. if flexible plates are inserted into the opening, then they should wrap around the wall.

Errors that prevent high-quality fastening

There are mistakes that lead to poor fastening. Be aware of them and try not to commit:

• you can not mount the block only on mounting foam because it's unreliable. Foam is an elastic substance, and it cannot prevent the occurrence of bends;
• Foam itself can be a problem. It may cause bending. Everything is very simple - if somewhere it lay unevenly, this provides a fold.

Even professional installers often attach blocks to three points, and not to five, as we advise. This is bad, because then the entire lower part of the jamb will be loose, so the fasteners bend. So listen to us and don't make mistakes.

Double-leaf doors often lack fasteners between the hinges. This is a mistake that should not be allowed. Be sure to add another fastener between the loops.

The flexible plate must be fixed to two walls. If it is attached only on one side, nothing good will come of it. There is no security in such a door. Not only will the jamb bend, it can also twist with a “screw”.

Four basic mounting methods

We have already described the methods of fastening the door frame above. Now let's select them properly:

1. on mounting foam. Doing so is not worth it - in the end, the door may simply fall out of the opening;
2. in three points. The most common approach. It's fast and easy way, which is relatively reliable. Suitable for and for those passages where there is no high traffic;
3. at six points. This technique is recommended even by GOST. It is considered optimal. The only negative is the plugs because they can ruin appearance at the door;
4. using plates. Ideal for expensive doors that you don't want to spoil with plugs. The plates are attached from the back.

Now let's look at mounting options at six points and with the help of plates in more detail.

The traditional way

The algorithm of actions is as follows:

Installation according to GOST: an affordable method and important recommendations

We will not argue about how to properly fix the blocks. There are 4 ways to do this, and everyone has the right to choose what he likes best. We will just tell you how to work with the most proven methods. One we have already detailed above.

Now let's talk about something else. So the instruction:

Now let's give you a little advice. If you need to then put flooring, from below, place a gasket under the jamb, which will be equal in thickness to the floor covering. After that, you just need to remove the gasket and lay the floor covering. And that's it - no problem.

• the next step is to insert the box into the opening. Be sure to use the level! We fix it with good self-tapping screws;
• hanging the canvas in place. We check the gaps. Next, you need to adjust the gaps. We have already written about this above, in a different way. This is done by tightening the screws or vice versa, loosening them;
• then the second rack is attached. Spacers are not required here, which means that you do not need to wait until the foam dries. The door in this case is ready for operation immediately after the foam is applied;
• put on plastic caps. They will close the mounts;
• The last step is to foam the entire box.

That's all! The work is done. Judging by the reviews of people, this method is really good, and GOST was not mistaken.

The main signs of a well-established joint are:

Door frame in place

• the lock, wattle fences and other fittings must be carefully and accurately inserted into the canvas. The main thing is that nothing is skewed;
• all elements of the door frame must be carefully docked together. Docking can be done independently, it is not difficult;
• the loopback jamb should be made vertical. It is very important! Then the door, no matter how it is opened, will not be let down;
• the gaps should be the same everywhere, from top to bottom. For a single door, the gaps on the handle side should be slightly smaller than the gaps on the hinge side;
• great attention should be paid to the vestibule of the canvas, because it must be precisely and clearly adjusted. When this is done, then closed door, from the side door handle, not a single gap will be visible, no gap, regardless of whether there is a seal on the other side of the jamb or not.

What should be the result?

Please note that the handle in the door should turn without the slightest effort when opening. However, she must return to her place as soon as she is released.

The door should close very easily. It happens that when closing, the hinges pull slightly, this should not be.

The lock on the door should close easily. And at the same time, it must be tight, reliable, otherwise it will be very easy to open the door.

Attaching to the wall is important, no matter how you look at it. We have already said that this is important so that the door does not deform, no one wants to see an ugly door in their house. Moreover, from an aesthetic point of view, this is unacceptable.

Any kink in the box can cause the door to be difficult to open or close. Moreover, the door may eventually stop opening and closing altogether! And then you have to change the entire block at once. And this is expensive, and troublesome, and it will take a lot of time. Therefore, it is better to do the job right now than to redo it later.

But that's not all! The fact is that due to the bend, the door can simply fall out. But this is not the worst. The worst thing is that a poorly, unreliably installed jamb can lead to the fact that the door will simply be opened. It is enough to push such a door with a hand or foot to knock it out along with the jamb. And then - complete freedom of action. You can simply take and take out all the property from the apartment. Thieves and robbers use this method very often.

Therefore, we strongly recommend that everyone listen to us. Do not install the jamb only on the foam, but use the techniques and methods that we have already described above. Then the jambs will be reliable, the door will become impregnable. And you, the owners of the apartment, will be calm.

Replacing doors in a room is a common thing. In installation, the fastening of the door frame is considered an important point. This is a difficult moment, but with strict adherence to the instructions and installation is carried out efficiently for a short time. Exist different variants fasteners. Preparatory work must be carried out before installation.

Door frame installation

Preparatory work, their features

The door should close effortlessly, withstand nervous slamming, and not open spontaneously. In order for the design to meet the requirements, it is necessary to correctly carry out preliminary work before installation:

• dismantle the old structure;
• make accurate measurements;
• saw down and assemble the bars;
• equip with the necessary fittings;
• put in the opening correctly.

Plastic and metal-plastic door blocks are supplied fully assembled and require almost no preparatory work. And all the rest are often implemented with an unassembled door frame - a set of bars of arbitrary length. Therefore, the first step is to start a responsible process - taking measurements, assembling the structure. Then only you can fix the door hatch in one of the ways.

Dismantling the box

Dismantling the door structure

When the old structure is replaced, it is dismantled. To do this, use a nail puller, having previously made a cut of a vertical bar on both sides. This is done to squeeze the design.

If anchors are used in the old structure, nails that cannot be unscrewed, they are cut down with a grinder.

Before installation, check the vertical walls to take into account differences. The door frame is placed in such a way that it does not go deep into the opening, and later the platbands adjoin it. Do this using the building level.

Taking measurements

At this stage of work, inaccuracies and errors are unacceptable, otherwise this will lead to complications during operation and the acquisition of a new design. The main task the accuracy of determining the web and opening is considered, the calculation of the size of the lintel with racks, taking into account technological gaps. During measurements, attention is paid to the following points:

• The thickness of the timber must be at least equal to the thickness of the web;
• Measurements are made with one tape measure;
• The opening, the canvas is measured along the length on both sides, and the identified deviations are taken into account in the work;
• Outside the beams that are in contact with the opening, leave a gap of 1 cm;
• Inside make gaps of 3 mm. If the structure has a threshold, then the gap is made around the perimeter;

Attention! If the box does not have a threshold, then a gap is left between the canvas and the floor: 8 mm above the linoleum, 15 - above the carpet

• Places for sawing off the rack are inside the beams;
• If the size of the doorway is small, then it is increased. If large - reduce.

Washed down the beams for the box

Shot at a 45 degree angle

The next stage is the correct sawing of the bars, their connection into a whole structure. To do this, use an end machine, a device for cutting boards with a hacksaw. There are two methods for joining parts.

The first one is a difficult option, but it looks beautiful - washed down the lintels and vertical racks at an angle of 45 degrees. The elements are interconnected by self-tapping screws, for which holes are drilled at right angles to the cut. The holes in the MDF frame are drilled in advance so as not to spoil the workpieces. Self-tapping screws are selected with cutting to the head, and the drill is taken with a diameter of 3⁄4 fasteners.

The second, simple way - washed down is carried out at an angle of 90 degrees. In the work using a fine-toothed hacksaw. Vertical bars sills with a threshold are equal to the sum of the length of the door leaf and a gap of 3 mm at the top / bottom. If there is no threshold, then a gap of 1 cm is left at the bottom. The bar is attached to the racks of each side. The bar for the threshold is sawn off at an angle of 90 degrees. The box must be assembled on a horizontal surface.

Hardware fixing

Hinge attachment

You can install fittings before starting to assemble the box or on the finished structure. For some models, the surface of the beam is cut to the thickness of the canopy, while for others this is not necessary. Loops are: universal, right and left.

The standard indent is 200 mm from the lower and upper edges of the door leaf with a deviation of 5 cm to the sides. The third loop is set 500 mm from top level canvases. The place of fasteners is calculated taking into account the technological gap - they retreat 23 cm. When attaching the loops, they ensure that the flag is installed flush with the canvas and frame. Notches are made using a chisel, cutter.

The location of the handle, regular or with a snap mechanism, is determined by the owner, but a distance of 90-120 cm from the floor is considered the standard installation location.

Installing the box in the opening

For all types, one rule applies - the frame is temporarily fixed in the opening. For this, 4 metal plates are used - suspensions, which are used for mounting metal structures for drywall.

The structure is leveled, fixed with plates and adjusted with the door leaf inserted. If required, it is wedged with wedges.

Important! If the plates are left after the installation of the box, then a recess is made under the outer part of the plate to cover it with plaster.

For the final fixing of the door hatch in the opening, several fastener options are used.

Options for fastening the box in the opening

The method of fastening is chosen taking into account the features of the interior. Consider four options:

Hidden mount

• Concealed installation of the door frame, where for rigidity frame structure use anchors and screws. Distinctive feature they consider that they do not make special mounting holes on the bars, and the fasteners are hidden in the hinges, the mating locking element.

Holes are drilled in the loop between the screws, through which the door frame is fastened with anchors to the wall. Another mount is installed under the decorative lock plate. There are three fixation points in total.

Having fixed the box, put spacers. All gaps between the beams of the frame and the wall are filled with foam, and so that under its action the racks are not deformed, spacers are placed. Keep them until the foam is completely solidified.

The advantage of such fasteners is considered to be relative rigidity, preservation of appearance. This option is complex, requires accurate calculations. With inaccuracies made, it is impossible to adjust the position of the box - they dismantle it, unscrew the anchors, and mount it again.

• Fastening the door frame to metal hangers. AT this case use suspensions, which are used for arranging false ceiling. The process boils down to the fact that the plates are screwed to the box, then it is inserted into the opening, adjusted in level. Marks are made on the wall where the plate will be attached and recesses are made under it, where the fasteners are hidden.

Installation of a door structure on suspensions

After installing the door frame, everything is checked again, leveled using the building level, and the plates are fixed. Adjustment is carried out by wedging wooden blocks. The places where the plates are attached to the wall are hidden with a layer of plaster. This method is good to use if the finishing of the walls has not yet been done.

• Fasteners for screws, anchor bolts. This is a standard bolt-on fastener for the door frame. Holes (3 or 4) are drilled on the racks before installation at the right points. After the door structure is exposed in the opening, holes for anchor bolts are drilled with a drill at the marked places in the concrete.

When installing on anchors, spacers should not be installed; they perfectly hold even a heavy structure. Fill the gaps around the perimeter with foam.

The attachment points are hidden with decorative plugs. They come in different sizes and shades, so they are hardly noticeable on the surface, but this is considered a minus of this option. The door frame installed in this way can be used immediately. It is stable, long-lasting, invulnerable over time.

• Installing the door frame on the foam. After fixing the structure in the opening and leveling it, the gap between the box and the wall is filled with foam. The slots are filled to 50% of the volume. Do it slowly small areas to avoid distortion and protrusion.

Foam door installation

So that the jamb does not lead, before filling the gap with foam, spacers are installed in the opening, which are removed only after it has completely solidified - after about a day. The installation of spacers is associated with the property of the foam, which, when solidified, increases in size, which can violate the parameters of the installed structure.

Attention. It is better to use mounting foam under the gun. It is dosed, has a low expansion rate, quickly hardens. In order not to damage the fixed box with foam, before work, cover the surface with a film, adhesive tape, material that quickly lags behind the surface without damaging it.

In this version, the box rests on only one foam. This is the easiest fixing method, but some modern door designs cannot be held on with foam alone.

Features of mounting a wooden box

Wood frame can be processed paintwork material or not. Depending on the condition, the method of attachment is selected. Wood is a material that allows you to correct all the flaws and successfully hide the attachment points.

If the structure is not painted, it can be safely installed using plates, anchors. Places are hidden with putty (acrylic sealant) of the desired shade. When applying the coloring material, everything is hidden.

If the box is painted, then these methods can be used if the bolt seats are hidden with the same putty, a colored wood-like sealant. Complete the work with a paintwork material to match the color.

From the whole variety of door frame installation methods, you need to choose fast, convenient, reliable, easy. But in any case, do not neglect the basic rules.

How to install the door frame:

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To hang the door leaf, a supporting structure is required, which is attached to a wall or partition. This design is a door frame (or pigtail). It consists of two vertical posts, called jambs, and one or two crossbars (lintel and door sill). The service life of doors in a house or apartment depends on how to assemble the door frame and install it in the opening.

The most common and available material for the manufacture of the box - this is a beam of coniferous wood. The thickness of the bars is from 40 to 100 mm, the width is from 60 to 100 mm (depending on where the door frame is installed). For entrance doors the thickness of the material should be greater; thinner beams can be used for interior and balcony doors.

Along the entire length of the bar, a groove (quarter) for the sash is selected in it so that the gap between the door and the frame is minimal. If sampling of quarters is not possible for some reason, you can assemble a box from bars of various widths, fastening them with screws. As a rule, bars with selected quarters are sold in the distribution network.

AT last years boxes made of wood or fiberboard laminated with durable decorative PVC films are very popular. various kinds. Such products do not require additional processing and care, are easily cleaned from dust or dirt and have a remarkable appearance. Metal door blocks are made according to the dimensions of the opening in advance, so when hanging steel sheets, assembly of the box is not required.

To understand how to install the door system correctly, you need to consider a number of recommendations:

1. 1. Before installation, the door opening side must be selected correctly. It is best if the sash opens towards the exit from the apartment or house. At the same time, it should not completely block the passage from another room or collide with another sash. If such a moment is inevitable, then you will have to install a door frame with opening to the other side or into the room. This will not be a violation of building codes.

1. The elements of the pigtail are loaded by the weight of the door leaf and the forces applied to open it. Therefore, the box must be fixed and securely fastened. This applies to doors different materials and for any purpose.
2. Doors should be hung, keeping the gap between the floor and the canvas at least 10 mm. This is necessary to ensure supply and exhaust natural ventilation in the premises, so that a carpet or other floor covering can be laid in the opening area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe sash.

Despite the variety of types and designs of paintings, the boxes for their installation differ in two main types: closed and open. The assembly of the box of the first type is carried out by a tenon-groove connection of four elements:

• upper horizontal bar (lintel);
• lower horizontal beam (threshold);
• side racks (jambs).

At the same time, there is practically no gap in the joints. The closed type is used wherever a door threshold is required, such as entrance or balcony doors. Open type - these are interior door frames, which consist of three elements (there is no door threshold).

Door frames are different for buildings made of different materials. It is necessary to consider how to put a door frame in a brick (stone) house and in wooden walls frame or log houses.

Openings in log and frame buildings

The door frame in log houses is usually called casing, as it performs an additional function of strengthening the log wall. It can be set in two ways. The first is casing with a face ridge:

1. On the outside of the vertical racks, the pigtails cut a groove approximately 50x50 mm in size along the entire length.
2. On the sides of the opening, a comb is cut out corresponding to the grooves in the uprights. At the bottom of the rack, a straight spike is made for fastening to the threshold, and at the top - an eye for fastening to the lintel.
3. Spikes are made in the lintel, and nests are made in the threshold, where a vertical post is inserted with a spike.
4. We temporarily install the lintel on wedges, then we collect all the casing. To do this, they put the jambs with grooves on the ridges and combine the eyes with the spikes on the lintel and threshold. The gap is clogged with tow; the use of mounting foam or other types of fasteners is not allowed.
5. The assembled casing is checked by a plumb line and by measuring the diagonals; it must be strictly rectangular and not deviate vertically.

The second way is casing with a mortgage bar. It differs from the first one in that a groove is cut out on the sides of the opening to the full height, into which a mortgage beam is inserted. Side racks are attached to it with screws, the rest of the assembly process is repeated. In the case of a metal door in a log house, you need to know how to properly install it in the opening, so that later, when shrinking and thermal expansion, the door does not warp or jam.

Only the second method is suitable here - mounting a metal box on a mortgage beam. In this case, the product is not allowed to be fixed directly to the wall, but only to the embedded bar. Between the upper lintel and the log of the wall, you need to leave a gap in case of shrinkage of the log house. Fill this gap with insulation without using mounting foam.

Elements of the door frame frame building like the box interior door, collect on a flat horizontal surface with an attached sash. This is necessary in order to avoid distortions and distortions of the web even at a preliminary stage.

When assembling the pigtails of an open type, instead of the lower bar, a bar with a section of 50x25 mm is temporarily nailed below in order to fix the correct position of the elements. After that, the product can be placed in the opening and fixed by checking again the vertical and the length of the diagonals.

Openings in brick buildings

Before installing the pigtail in brick wall make sure that the wooden embedded parts on the sides of the opening do not wobble. Otherwise, they must be fixed with spacers on the glue. It is recommended to fasten the elements of the box to the embedded screws with a length of 100-150 mm, the number of which for the vertical posts of the entrance doors is 4-5 pcs. for each, for horizontal elements - 2 pcs.

In the absence of embedded parts, anchors are used for brick or concrete walls. It is necessary to read the instructions on how to properly assemble a pigtail in the opening of a brick building:

1. The grooves and spikes of the wooden box are coated with PVA glue, assembled and installed in the opening, the hinged part is set strictly according to the plumb line or level and fixed with screws (or anchors). The remaining elements are fixed in the opening with wooden wedges.
2. They hang the door and achieve the horizontal position of the upper bar and the vertical position of the side posts, their mutual perpendicularity. This is done by knocking in or pulling out wooden wedges.
3. The fit of the door to the frame is checked according to the following parameters: the gap between the upper horizontal surface of the leaf and the upper bar of the pigtail should not exceed 3 mm, and between the vertical post and the plane of the leaf - 2 mm.
4. By opening the sash, check the correct installation. The sash must remain stationary in any position, the gap between the floor and the lower plane of the leaf must be the same along the entire length. Wooden spacers are used to fix the box in the opening.
5. After all adjustments, the box is finally fixed with screws or anchors.
6. To avoid deformation of the jambs, 4-5 horizontal wooden spacers with a cross section of 25x50 mm are placed between them, after which all the slots are filled with polyurethane mounting foam. It is first blown into vertical slots from the bottom up, and then into horizontal ones. After polymerization, excess foam is cut off with a knife, and temporary spacers are removed.

Refinement of pigtail elements

Just installing the box is not enough, it still needs to be ennobled. In the case of laminated products, there is no such need, but wooden boxes require improvement. Given the wide range of products on the market finishing materials, the inner appearance of the pigtail can be given a good aesthetic appearance.

One of the most popular options is self-adhesive wallpaper (self-adhesive). Without stopping at the choice of the type of wallpaper, pay attention to brief instructions how to wrap the box:

1. Prepare the surface. Defects that may have appeared during installation should be removed and cleaned sandpaper. Explicit recesses are best puttied. Wipe off dust with a damp cloth.
2. Cut off the self-adhesive in accordance with the dimensions and margin (about 30 mm on each side). The fact is that it is difficult to apply self-adhesive absolutely exactly. When working, small distortions are inevitable, and without a margin, the pattern may not cover the entire element.
3. Peel off a layer of protective paper at the beginning of the pattern and attach it to the surface. Having glued the beginning, gradually tuck the paper and carefully stick the self-adhesive, smoothing it with a rag. After gluing, carefully remove the excess by cutting it with scissors.
4. Glue the next pattern not butt to the previous one, but overlap.

Despite the apparent complexity, having carefully studied the process of installing a box for a door and how to glue the box with self-adhesive tape, you can do the work yourself and thereby save personal money.

- the procedure is troublesome and time-consuming. But with minimal skills in working with wood and necessary tools you can still handle the installation.

Not only aesthetics, but also the strength of the structure depend on whether the door frame was installed correctly. But before starting work, you should familiarize yourself with the main parameters that you need to pay attention to during installation.

Construction schemes

There are two schemes for fastening the door frame, which differ in the execution of cuts:

• sawing at an angle of 90ᵒ requires a saw with fine teeth, accuracy and minimal knowledge of woodworking technology;
• for an angle of 45ᵒ you will need a miter box or a miter saw.

The second mounting scheme is described below, since it is simpler in execution. Now - directly to the installation.

Stage 1. Elements of the door frame

First you need to purchase the necessary construction details. Here is a list of all accessories:

• door leaf;
• self-tapping screws with dowels;
• a pair of vertical bars 2 m long;
• one horizontal bar;
• wooden platbands;
• anchor bolts of the appropriate size;
• iron hanging bars;
• platbands;
• wedges with a size corresponding to the width of the opening between the bar and the wall surface;
• mounting foam;
• foam gun.

Stage 2. Equipment

Installation requires a lot of tools and materials. Every owner should have some of them, the rest need to be bought or rented. So, for work you need to prepare:

Stage 3. Dismantling the old box

Preparation for installation often begins with the dismantling of the old door. This must be done in this order.

Step 1. First of all, the platbands are removed and the design of the door frame is disassembled. All this must be done very carefully so as not to damage the wall.

Step 2. Anchor bolts and other fasteners are unscrewed or, in extreme cases, cut off.

Step 3. The wall is checked for strength and, if required, further strengthened.

Note! Do not neglect the strength of the wall, because the reliability and durability of the box directly depends on this. If necessary, strengthening is better to make reinforcement and finish cement mortar"problem" areas.

Stage 3. Installing the door frame

Before starting, it is advisable to lay out all the components on the floor at a single level, after placing cardboard or other soft material. Also, the design can be placed on two tables or four stools.

Step 1. Upon completion of dismantling, measurements of the formed doorway are carried out. It is important that the width and height of the structure be at least 5 cm less than the opening - this will allow the installation of spacer wedges.

Note! The wedges should be 0.5 cm larger than the gaps, otherwise the mount will not be strong enough.

Step 2. The ends of the bars are sawn off with a miter box at an angle of 45ᵒ.

Step 3 Holes are made at the joints of the bars. The bars are tightened with self-tapping screws. When tightening, you need to be extremely careful, because if you overdo it, the tree can crack.

The lower bars in modern designs are not provided.

Step 4. It is determined on which side the door hinges will be attached, after which their outlines are outlined. The door leaf is tried on, the presence of a small gap between the floor and the frame is checked. With the help of a chisel, places for fixing door hinges are prepared. The hinges are screwed with self-tapping screws to the canvas and bar.

Step 5. Where the box will be adjacent to the wall, hanging strips are attached with self-tapping screws. The plank of each of the frames is equal to the width of the wall, and the tendrils extend 5-7 cm to the inner and outer sides. Horizontally there should be two such strips, vertically - three.

Next, the door frame (only without a leaf) is installed in the opening. Using a level and a plumb line, the horizontal / vertical structure of the structure is checked. From below, a spacer frame of the same size is installed with a bar located on top.

The frame for the doorway is almost ready.

Step 6

Step 7. It remains only to fix the box with anchors. Through the entire perimeter of the beam, through holes are made with equal pitch, points for drilling the wall are marked in parallel. Then the wall is drilled with a puncher, anchor bolts recessed into the bar are inserted into the holes obtained. Fasteners are tightened with a wrench.

Step 8. At the end, the door leaf is hung, after which the axes are checked. If everything is done correctly, the door will open and close easily. All cracks are filled with mounting foam.

Note! The amount of foam must be controlled, because an insufficient amount will reduce the strength of the structure, and an excess can cause the box to deform.

After that, platbands with pre-sawn corners are installed. For fixing, small nails without hats are taken, all joints are smeared with wax-based mastic.

Video - Assembling the door frame

Box fixing methods

If the width of the opening is greater than the width of the box, then instead of wood, you can use jambs made of MDF - a building material that has been very popular in recent years. In this case, the mounting technology is almost the same as described above.

Various additional elements are used to increase the distance from the bar. Such elements can be bought ready-made in the store or pre-cut at the preparation stage. In most cases, MDF is used with a special slat located in the center. This bar is removed, and in the groove below it, the required number of holes for the anchors is made. Then the groove is closed with a bar and a reliable and aesthetic design is obtained.

Door frame in a wooden house

Wood is great construction material, the main disadvantage of which is subsidence after construction. For this reason, you need to know how to make a door frame in this case.

In this case, there are only two options.

1. If the width of the opening corresponds to the size specified in the project, then grooves are made at the ends and a beam is hammered into them. A box is nailed to the beam (it is better not to nail it directly to the walls, because the notorious subsidence will continue).
2. With an unformed opening, the hole must be made slightly smaller than that specified in the project. The beam in this case is made with a groove.

The sequence of actions should be as follows.

Step 1. First, the outline of the future opening is marked, using the building level and plumb line.

Step 2. Then the opening is sawn out, the upper and lower parts are cut off.

Step 3. The diameter of the log house is measured and the dimensions of the jambs of the door frame are determined from the resulting figure. Jambs are made from decks.

Step 4. The decks are split into blocks and hewn.

Note! It is not at all necessary that the profile of the jambs be rectangular - it can be, for example, trapezoidal.

Video - Door frame made of wood and MDF

And the last. During repair work humidity in the room usually rises, which is very important, especially when assembling the door frame. After some time, the door, previously sitting tightly, begins to loosen. At the same time, many masters also prefer to save on fittings. This is not necessary, because a weak fastening usually causes the fragility of the door.

How difficult do you think it is to install interior doors? with my own hands? For many, even the thought of such work inspires horror. In fact, doing this is not at all as difficult as it might seem. We will try to convince you of this in one article. If you want to save some money on repairs without sacrificing quality, go for it! And we will help you with some valuable tips. But first, let's talk a little about what material it is better to buy doors from and why.

Interior door material

The quality of the material from which the door is made depends not only on the appearance, but also on the durability, performance properties, as well as how fast and easy the installation of interior doors will be. The most common are doors made of fiberboard, MDF, and solid wood.

MDF doors They are a frame made of wood, sheathed with sheets of fiberboard. Such doors are popular among buyers for only one reason: low price (about 800 rubles). Lightness is also a plus. The light weight allows you to transport and install the product alone. Otherwise, fiberboard doors are of the same quality as their price category - low strength, poor sound insulation. And one more thing: the installation of interior doors made of fiberboard is contraindicated where the level of humidity is high.

They cost an order of magnitude more expensive, but by purchasing them, you will be sure that you will not have to change the doors soon. The MDF material appeared with the improvement of fiberboard production technology, so it is obvious that its strength, sound insulation and moisture resistance indicators are much higher. Moreover, at MDF production no harmful substances are used epoxy resins, phenol. The price of MDF doors is about 3 thousand rubles.

Solid wood doors- the most expensive option. There is no need to list all the advantages of natural wood over other materials. Let's just say that the price of solid wood doors depends on the type of wood. Pine is one of the inexpensive materials, since a door made of it is inferior in performance to doors made of ash, oak, etc. The average price of a door made of natural wood is about 12 thousand rubles.

solid wood doors

We have described only the most popular types of doors, but there are many more options that may be more suitable for your interior: steel, glass, plastic. However, their review simply does not fit into the scope of this article.

Choosing a door frame

The purchase of a door frame must be treated as carefully as the choice of doors. This element must support the weight of the door.

So, the three most common types of materials for door frames are:

1. Fiberboard. We have already mentioned the features of this material above. It is easy to damage a fiberboard product even when interior doors are installed, it will not withstand increased loads and high humidity. The price of the box corresponds to the quality - low (about 400 rubles)
2. Wood without processing. The cost of a product made of profiled timber is not much different from the cost of fiberboard. This can be explained by the fact that the beam requires finishing, and the fiberboard product is completely ready for installation and operation. But in terms of performance, fiberboard is much inferior to natural wood.
3. Laminated wood. It differs from the second option by the presence of finishing in the form laminated coating. The question is how good is the coverage. It depends on how your door frame will look in a few years. The best coating is made of plastic.

For comparison, below are illustrations of door frames made of raw (a) and laminated (b) wood.

What else will you need to purchase? Perhaps, in order to complete the design of the opening, platbands and an additional plank will be needed. We recommend that you do not buy them in advance - you may not need them.

Required Tools

Saw;
Drill;
Drill ø4 mm (for wood);
Drill ø6 and 4 mm (for concrete);
Nozzle on a drill for screws;
Roulette;
Level;
Screws 60 × 3.5 mm, dowels 75 mm long;
Mounting foam.

Step by step installation of interior doors

Below is a diagram of fastening the door frame to the wall. From it you can see that the box is fixed with self-tapping screws, then the gap between the beams and the wall is filled with foam.

1 - door frame;
2- door;
3 - self-tapping screws;
4 - polyurethane foam.

Let's see how interior doors with a fiberboard frame are installed.

Stage 1. Assembly of the box

As a rule, the length of the door frame beams is made 5 - 6 cm longer, so your task is to make sure that the dimensions of the frame and the door opening match. It will be better if you assemble on the floor. Consider which way the door will open.

a) We fix the beams on the screws. Due to the low strength of the material, it would be better to drill holes first, and only then screw in the screws. We measure the height of the doorway.

b) With a hacksaw, cut off the excess along the length of the box. Since there is a high probability of damage to the product, this should be done carefully. When you measure required size boxes, be careful: the gap between it and the wall (for sealing with foam) should be 1-2 cm.

Stage 2. Preparing for installation

a) Insert the door frame into the opening and fasten the door. If the box is installed correctly, according to the level, then the door will open and close easily.

b) Remove the trim strip from the end and drill 7 holes on all sides (approximately every 30 cm). Once again, check the vertical position of the box with a level.

c) We mark the necessary places on the wall with a drill ø4 mm and drill the wall with a drill ø6 mm. If there is a brick in the opening, try to drill the body of the brick, not the seam - there the dowels will be fixed much better.

d) Install the dowels.

Wood drill 4mm. Drilling the box

We drill a brick wall, a drill for concrete

Self-tapping screws for door installation. Self-tapping screws for quick installation, on the right wood screws

Stage 3. Fixing the box to the wall

It is better to use wood screws and a screwdriver. Do not tighten the screws all the way, because the box is fragile and it will be easy to bend it. Make sure that the surface is strictly vertical. After screwing the box, you can put the door on the hinges.

We put wedges so that the box does not bend

Check gaps before foaming

After fixing the box with screws, the door should close and open freely

Stage 4. Fill the seam with foam

In the gap formed between the beams of the box and the wall, we place some material (for example, cardboard), then fill it with mounting foam. It is important that the door is already in place. Otherwise, the box will simply arch, because the foam, when hardened, increases in volume and can tear the screws out of the dowels.

Seam sealing

Fill the seams from the bottom up. Remember that the foam increases in volume when it hardens, so avoid overspending - fill the gap only a third.
It remains to wait a day for the foam to completely harden. In this case, the door must be stationary.

We close the gaps with dense material

We fill the foam for the third part

Finishing doorways

When the installation of interior doors is completed, it remains to hide the seam of the mounting foam with platbands (in diagram 1 - item 1).

If the platbands are unfinished, fasten with self-tapping screws. For laminated products, it is better to use self-tapping screws with decorative plugs.

If the box is narrower than your doorway, you can attach an additional plank to the wall or make slopes.

The latter option is only suitable for a wooden door frame, because fiberboard can warp from a wet solution.

As you can see, installing interior doors is not as difficult as it might seem. Try it and you will definitely succeed. The main thing is to follow our recommendations and act according to the principle “measure seven times, cut once”.