Proper installation of heating radiators - expert advice. Rules for installing a radiator under a window

For any type of radiators general rules for placing them indoors. There is also a certain sequence of actions that must be followed. The technology is simple, but there are many nuances.

How to place batteries

First of all, the recommendations relate to the installation site. Most often, heaters are placed where heat loss is most significant. And first of all, these are windows. Even with modern energy-saving double-glazed windows, it is in these places that the most heat is lost. What can we say about the old wooden frames.

If there is no radiator under the window, then cold air descends along the wall and spreads across the floor. The situation changes the installation of the battery: warm air, rising up, prevents the "draining" of the cold on the floor. It must be remembered that in order for such protection to be effective, the radiator must occupy at least 70% of the width of the window. This norm is spelled out in SNiP. Therefore, when choosing radiators, keep in mind that a small radiator under the window will not provide the proper level of comfort. In this case, there will be zones on the sides where cold air will go down, there will be cold zones on the floor. At the same time, the window can often “sweat”, on the walls in the place where warm and cold air will collide, condensation will fall out, and dampness will appear.

For this reason, do not seek to find a model with the highest heat dissipation. This is justified only for regions with a very harsh climate. But in the north, even from the most powerful sections stand big size radiators. For middle lane Russia needs an average heat transfer, for the south they generally need low radiators (with a small center distance). This is the only way you can fulfill the key rule for installing batteries: block most of the window opening.

In cold climates, it makes sense to arrange a thermal curtain near the front door. This is the second problem area, but it is more typical for private houses. This problem may occur in the apartments of the first floors. Here the rules are simple: you need to put the radiator as close to the door as possible. Choose a place depending on the layout, also taking into account the possibility of piping.

Rules for installing heating radiators

• It is required to place the heater strictly in the middle of the window opening. When installing, find the middle, mark it. Then right and left set aside the distance to the location of the fasteners.
• The distance from the floor is 8-14 cm. If you do less, it will be difficult to clean, if more, cold air zones form below.
• The radiator should be 10-12 cm from the window sill. With a closer location, convection worsens, and the thermal power drops.
• From wall to rear wall the distance should be 3-5 cm. This gap ensures normal convection and heat distribution. And one more thing: at a small distance, dust will settle on the wall.

Based on these requirements, determine the most suitable size of the radiator, and then look for a model that satisfies them.

These are general rules. Some manufacturers have their own recommendations. And take it as advice: before buying, carefully study the installation requirements. Make sure that all conditions suit you. Only after that buy.

To reduce non-production losses - for heating the wall - fasten a foil or foil thin heat insulator behind the radiator on the wall. Such a simple measure will save 10-15% on heating. This is how heat transfer increases. But keep in mind that for normal “work”, there must be a distance of at least 2-3 cm from the shiny surface to the rear wall of the radiator. Therefore, the heat insulator or foil must be fixed to the wall, and not just leaned against the battery.

When should radiators be installed? At what stage of the installation of the system? When using radiators with side connection, you can first hang them, then proceed with the piping. For the bottom connection, the picture is different: you only need to know the center distance of the nozzles. In this case, radiators can be installed after the repair is completed.

Work order

When installing radiators with your own hands, it is important to do everything right, take into account all the little things. Experts advise using at least three fasteners when installing sectional batteries: two from above, one from below. All sectional radiators, regardless of type, are hung on the mounts with an upper manifold. It turns out that the main load falls on the upper holders, the lower one serves to give direction.

The installation procedure is as follows:

We tried to describe in as much detail as possible the entire technology for installing heating radiators. It remains to clarify some points.

The most common . They are used for side connection of heating devices of any type, both sectional, and panel, and tubular (click on the picture to enlarge it)

Fixing the radiator to the wall

All manufacturers require the installation of heating radiators on a prepared, even and clean wall. The efficiency of the heating depends on the correct location of the holders. Skewed in one direction or another will lead to the fact that the radiator will not heat up and it will have to be outweighed. Therefore, when marking, be sure to observe horizontal and vertical. The radiator must be installed exactly in any plane (check with a building level).

You can slightly raise the edge where the air vent is installed (about 1 cm). So the air will mainly accumulate in this part and it will be easier and faster to lower it. Reverse slope is not allowed.

Now about how to position the brackets. Sectional radiators of small mass - aluminum, bimetallic and steel tubular - are hung on top of two holders (hooks). With a small length of the batteries, they can be placed between the two extreme sections. The third bracket is placed from the bottom in the middle. If the number of sections is odd, put it to the right or left of the nearest section. Usually, when installing hooks, grouting is allowed.

To install brackets in marked places, drill holes, install dowels or wooden plugs. Fix the holders with self-tapping screws with a diameter of at least 6 mm and a length of at least 35 mm. But these are standard requirements, read more in the passport for the heater.

The installation of the holders is different, but not drastically. For such devices, regular fasteners are usually included. There can be from two to four, depending on the length of the radiator (it can be three meters).

There are brackets on the back panel with which they are hung. To install the mount, you need to measure the distance from the center of the radiator to the brackets. Set aside a similar distance on the wall (preliminarily note where the middle of the battery will be located). Then we apply fasteners, mark the holes for the dowels. Further actions are standard: we drill, install dowels, attach brackets and fix with self-tapping screws.

Features of installing radiators in an apartment

The above rules for the installation of heating radiators are common for both individual systems and centralized ones. But before installing new radiators in you must obtain permission from the management or operating company. The heating system is common property and all unauthorized alterations have consequences - administrative fines. The fact is that with a massive change in the parameters of the heating network (replacing pipes, radiators, installing thermostats, etc.), the system is unbalanced. This can lead to the fact that the entire riser (entrance) will freeze in winter. Therefore, all changes require approval.

Types of wiring and connection of radiators in apartments (click on the picture to enlarge it)

Another feature is technical in nature. With a vertical one (one pipe enters through the ceiling, enters the radiator, then exits and goes to the floor), when installing the radiator, install a bypass - a jumper between the supply and discharge pipelines. Paired with ball valves, this will give you the ability to turn off the radiator if you want (or in an accident). This does not require the approval or permission of the manager: you turned off your radiator, but the coolant continues to circulate through the riser through the bypass (the same jumper). You do not need to stop the system, pay for it, listen to neighbors' complaints.

A bypass is also needed when installing a radiator with a regulator in the apartment (the installation of the regulator also needs to be coordinated - it greatly changes the hydraulic resistance of the system). The peculiarity of his work is such that he blocks the flow of coolant. If there is no jumper, the entire riser is blocked. Imagine the consequences...

Results

Do-it-yourself installation of heating radiators is not the easiest, but not the most difficult task. Just keep in mind that most manufacturers give guarantees only if the heaters are installed by representatives of organizations licensed for this. The fact of installation and pressure testing must be noted in the radiator passport, the signature of the installer and the seal of the enterprise must be. If you do not need a guarantee, your hands are in place, it is quite possible to handle it.

The window sill plays not only an important role for the window, but can also influence the installation of batteries, it should also be taken into account when choosing curtains. We will consider all the features of choosing the correct height of the window sill from the floor and from the radiator. These installation dimensions are important for the heating system.

Product protrusion functions

The protrusion of the window sill may be different. There are practically invisible structures that do not stand out for the window opening, there are also wide, powerful window sills on which you can sit. The design is needed to keep the heat in the house, it can serve as an additional support, for example, to install flower pots.

The window sill should be chosen carefully, it must fit the design of the window, otherwise it may fail. Replacing a part without removing the double-glazed window is extremely problematic.

Primary requirements

The distance from the floor to the window sill may vary depending on the type of window. However, GOST is provided for the permissible coefficient at which heat is best retained in the room, and the indicator is 0.55 W / ° С × m². This means that in order to achieve the desired effect, you need to use a plate that will have low thermal conductivity.

An important role is played by the distance of the radiator to the window sill: in that case, there is a SNiP, the main provisions of which require:

Height calculation

The distance between the battery and the window sill must be at least 10 cm, regardless of what type of heater is used. You need to take into account the height of the battery itself. Behind you need to step back 8 cm. The battery itself should rise 10 cm above the floor, that is, when installing a window sill from the floor according to SNIP, you will need to step back by 70-80 cm.

An important role is also played by the protrusion of the window sill.: it may move away from the wall significantly or be invisible. If there is no radiator under the window, it is not necessary to meet any requirements, but if heating is present, the protrusion must be strictly regulated. The task of the window sill is to redirect heat flows. Without it, they will rise up, and proper heating of the room will not occur, since part of the heat will evaporate and be distributed on the ceiling.

Poor convection can also be caused by a window sill that is too wide. It will not allow warm air to escape, as a result, condensate will begin to accumulate on the window, as the main air flows will go up, and some of them will get stuck under the window, heating the atmosphere. In this case, it is very important to calculate the distance from the window sill to the heating radiator, both in height and how far it is possible to make a ledge. You can avoid the problem described above by using a slab that does not extend beyond the wall by more than 8 cm.

Advice: when calculating the dimensions, you need to take into account the level of the wall with the finish.

The best option is a solution in which no more than 10% of warm air will be retained in the window niche. To do this, the window sill should not protrude beyond the battery by more than 6 cm, but should not be shorter than the heater.
If a design solution the premises require the installation of non-standard wide structures, they must be provided with holes for ventilation. Their size must be sufficient for proper air circulation.

Is clearance needed?

Some window owners believe that the window sill goes deep under window frame, However, it is not. The distance between the window and the window sill is approximately 10 mm. Otherwise, the design may be deformed. The fact is that under the influence of warm air, the material from which the plate is made expands. A gap is left so that the structure can accept desired shape without taking any damage. Visually, this technique is invisible.

How to position the curtain?

The distance of the window sill curtain also plays a role. In order for the curtains to move without clinging, there are no traces left on them, and warm air can circulate freely, the distance must be at least 5 cm.

Conclusion: it is not always possible to apply the standard distance from the floor, radiator, curtains to the window sill, however, you can find a way out by observing certain requirements.

To heating system autonomous type worked as efficiently and efficiently as possible, it is important not only to choose the right heating devices included in its design, but also to connect them accordingly, using the optimal schemes for connecting heating radiators in a private house.

The comfort of living in the house directly depends on how competently and professionally this will be done, so it is best to entrust the calculations and installation of the system to specialists. But, if necessary, you can perform the installation work yourself, paying attention to the following points:

• Correct wiring installation.
• The sequence of connection of all elements of the system, including pipelines, locking and control valves, boiler and pumping equipment.
• Selection of optimal heating equipment and accessories.

Before you connect a heating radiator in a private house, you must familiarize yourself with the following installation and placement standards for these devices:

• The distance from the bottom of the battery to the floor is 10-12 cm.
• The gap from the top of the radiator to the window sill is at least 8-10 cm.
• The distance from the rear panel of the device to the wall is at least 2 cm.

Important: Failure to comply with the above standards can lead to a decrease in the level of heat transfer from heaters and incorrect operation of the entire heating system.

Another important point to consider before installing heating radiators in a private house is their location in the premises. It is considered optimal when installed under windows. In this case, they create additional protection from the cold entering the house through window openings.

Please note that in rooms with several windows, it is better to install radiators under each of them, connecting them in series. In the corner rooms, it is also necessary to install several sources of heating.

The radiators connected to the system must have automatic or manual heat regulation. To this end, they are equipped with special ones designed to select the optimal temperature regime depending on the operating conditions of these devices.

Types of piping

Connection of heating radiators in a private house can be carried out by one-pipe or two-pipe scheme.

The first method is widely used in multi-storey houses, in which hot water is first supplied through the supply pipe to the upper floors, after which, after passing through the radiators from top to bottom, it enters the heating boiler, gradually cooling down. Most often in such a scheme there is a natural circulation of the coolant.

The photo shows a single-pipe connection diagram with a bypass (jumper)

Its main advantages:

• Low cost and material consumption.
• Relative ease of installation.
• Compatible with various types of underfloor heating systems and radiators.
• Possibility of installation in rooms with different layouts.
• Aesthetic appearance due to the use of only one pipe.

Minuses:

• The complexity of carrying out hydro- and heat calculations.
• The inability to regulate the heat supply on a separate radiator, without affecting the rest.
• High level of heat loss.
• An increased pressure of the heat carrier is required.

Please note: During the operation of a single-pipe heating system, difficulties may arise with the circulation of the coolant through the pipeline. However, they can be solved by installing pumping equipment.

Two-pipe scheme connecting heating batteries in a private house is based on a parallel method of connecting heating devices. That is, the branch supplying the coolant is supplied to the system, in this case it is not connected with the branch through which it returns, and their connection is carried out at the end point of the system.

Advantages:

• Possibility of using automatic temperature controllers.
• Serviceability. If necessary, shortcomings and errors made during installation can be corrected without damage to the system.

Flaws:

• Higher installation costs.
• Longer installation time compared to a single-pipe type of wiring.

Radiator connection options

To know how to properly connect a heating battery, you need to consider that in addition to the types of piping, there are several schemes for connecting batteries to the heating system. These include the following options for connecting heating radiators in a private house:

• Lateral (unilateral).

In this case, the connection of the outlet and supply pipes is made on one side of the radiator. This method of connection allows you to achieve uniform heating of each section at minimal cost for equipment and a small amount of coolant. Most often used in high-rise buildings, with lots of heatsinks.

Useful information: If the battery connected to the heating system in a one-way circuit has a large number of sections, the efficiency of its heat transfer will significantly decrease due to the weak heating of its remote sections. It is better to ensure that the number of sections does not exceed 12 pieces. or use another connection method.

• Diagonal (cross).

It is used when connecting to a heating system with a large number of sections. In this case, the supply pipe, as in the previous connection option, is located at the top, and the return pipe is at the bottom, but they are located on opposite sides of the radiator. Thus, heating is achieved maximum area batteries, which increases heat transfer and improves the efficiency of space heating.

• Lower.

This connection scheme, otherwise called "Leningrad", is used in systems with hidden pipeline laid under the floor. In this case, the connection of the inlet and outlet pipes is made to the lower branch pipes of the sections located at opposite ends of the battery.

The disadvantage of this scheme is heat loss, reaching 12-14%, which can be compensated by the installation of air valves designed to remove air from the system and increase battery power.

For quick dismantling and repair of the radiator, its outlet and inlet pipes are equipped with special taps. To adjust the power, it is equipped with a temperature control device, which is installed on the supply pipe.

What they have, you can find out from a separate article. It also contains a list of popular manufacturers.

And about what it is, read in another article. Volume calculation, installation.

Selection Tips instantaneous water heater on the faucet. Device, popular models.

Installation

As a rule, the installation of the heating system and the installation of heating radiators is carried out by invited specialists. However, using the listed methods for connecting heating radiators in a private house , you can install the batteries yourself, strictly following the technological sequence of this process.

If you perform these works accurately and competently, ensuring the tightness of all connections in the system, there will be no problems with it during operation, and installation costs will be minimal.

The photo shows an example of a diagonal installation method.

The procedure for this will be as follows:

• We dismantle old radiator(if necessary), having previously blocked the heating line.
• We mark the place of installation. The radiators are fixed on brackets that need to be attached to the walls, taking into account the regulatory requirements described earlier. This must be taken into account when marking.
• Attach brackets.
• We collect the battery. To do this, we install adapters on the mounting holes in it (they come with the device).

Attention: Usually two adapters are left-handed and two are right-handed!

• We also use locking caps to plug unused collectors. For sealing joints, we use sanitary flax, winding it on the left thread counterclockwise, on the right - clockwise.
• We fasten ball-type valves to the junctions with the pipeline.
• We hang the radiator in place and connect it to the pipeline with mandatory sealing of the joints.
• We make pressure testing and trial start-up of water.

Thus, before connecting a heating battery in a private house, it is necessary to determine the type of wiring in the system and its connection diagram. At the same time, installation work can be performed independently, taking into account the established standards and process technology.

How the installation of heating batteries in a private house is carried out, the video will show you clearly.

You can purchase an arbitrarily powerful heating boiler, but not achieve the expected warmth and comfort in the house. The reason for this may well be improperly selected final heat exchange devices. indoors, as which traditionally most often act as radiators. But even the assessments that seem to be quite suitable according to all criteria sometimes do not justify the hopes of their owners. Why?

And the reason may lie in the fact that the radiators are connected according to a scheme that is very far from optimal. And this circumstance simply does not allow them to show those heat transfer output parameters that are announced by manufacturers. Therefore, let's take a closer look at the question: what are the possible schemes for connecting heating radiators in a private house. Let's see what are the advantages and disadvantages of these or those options. Let's see what technological methods are used to optimize some circuits.

Necessary information for the correct choice of the radiator connection scheme

In order for further explanations to become more understandable to an inexperienced reader, it makes sense to first consider what a standard heating radiator is in principle. The term “standard” is used because there are also completely “exotic” batteries, but their consideration is not included in the plans of this publication.

The basic device of a heating radiator

So, if you depict a conventional heating radiator schematically, you might get something like this:

From the layout point of view, this is usually a set of heat exchange sections (item 1). The number of these sections can vary over a fairly wide range. Many battery models allow you to vary this amount, adding and decreasing, depending on the required thermal total power or based on the maximum allowable assembly dimensions. To do this, between the sections provides threaded connection using special couplings (nipples) with the necessary seal. Other radiators of this possibility do not imply their sections are connected “tightly” or even represent a single metal structure. But in the light of our topic, this difference is of fundamental importance.

But what is important is, so to speak, the hydraulic part of the battery. All sections are united by common manifolds located horizontally at the top (pos. 2) and below (pos. 3). And at the same time, in each of the sections, these collectors are connected by a vertical channel (pos. 4) for the movement of the coolant.

Each of the collectors has two inputs, respectively. In the diagram, they are designated G1 and G2 for the upper manifold, G3 and G4 for the lower one.

In the vast majority of connection schemes used in the heating systems of private houses, only these two inputs are always involved. One is connected to the supply pipe (that is, coming from the boiler). The second - to the "return", that is, to the pipe through which the coolant returns from the radiator to the boiler room. The remaining two entrances are blocked by plugs or other locking devices.

And here's what's important - the efficiency of the expected heat transfer of the heating radiator largely depends on how these two inputs, supply and return, are mutually located.

Note : Of course, the scheme is given with a significant simplification, and in many types of radiators it may have its own characteristics. So, for example, in cast-iron batteries of the MS-140 type, familiar to everyone, each section has two vertical channels connecting the collectors. And in steel radiators there are no sections at all - but the system of internal channels, in principle, repeats the one shown hydraulic diagram. So everything that will be said below applies equally to them.

Where is the supply pipe, and where is the "return"?

It is quite clear that in order to correctly optimally position the inlet and outlet to the radiator, it is necessary at least to know in which direction the coolant is moving. In other words, where is the supply, and where is the “return”. And the fundamental difference can already be hidden in the very type of heating system - it can be single-pipe or

Features of a one-pipe system

This heating system is especially common in high-rise buildings, it is quite popular in one-story buildings. individual construction. Its wide demand is primarily based on the fact that much fewer pipes are required during production, volumes are reduced installation work.

If explained as simply as possible, then this system is a single pipe passing from the supply pipe to the boiler inlet pipe (as an option - from the supply to the return manifold), on which the series-connected heating radiators seem to be “strung”.

On the scale of one level (floor), it might look something like this:

It is quite obvious that the "return" of the first radiator in the "chain" becomes the supply of the next one - and so on, until the end of this closed circuit. It is clear that from the beginning to the end of a single-pipe circuit, the temperature of the coolant is steadily decreasing, and this is one of the most significant drawbacks of such a system.

It is also possible the location of a single-pipe circuit, which is typical for buildings with several floors. This approach was commonly practiced in the construction of urban apartment buildings. However, it can also be found in private houses with several floors. This should also not be forgotten if, say, the house went to the owners from the old owners, that is, with the wiring of the heating circuits already installed.

Two options are possible here, shown below in the diagram, respectively, under the letters "a" and "b".

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• Option "a" is called a riser with an upper coolant supply. That is, from the supply manifold (boiler), the pipe rises freely to the highest point of the riser, and then sequentially passes down through all the radiators. That is, the hot coolant is supplied directly to the batteries in the direction from top to bottom.
• Option "b" - single-pipe wiring with bottom feed. Already on the way up, along the ascending pipe, the coolant passes a series of radiators. Then the direction of the flow changes to the opposite, the coolant passes through another string of batteries until it enters the "return" collector.

The second option is used for reasons of saving pipes, but it is obvious that the disadvantage of a single-pipe system, that is, the temperature drop from radiator to radiator along the coolant, is even more pronounced.

Thus, if you have a single-pipe system installed in your house or apartment, then in order to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators, it is imperative to clarify in which direction the coolant is supplied.

The secrets of the popularity of the heating system "Leningradka"

Despite the rather significant shortcomings, single-pipe systems still remain quite popular. An example of this - which is described in detail in a separate article of our portal. And one more publication is devoted to that element, without which single-pipe systems are not able to work normally.

What if it's a two-pipe system?

A two-pipe heating system is considered more advanced. It is easier to manage, better amenable to fine adjustments. But this is against the background of the fact that more material is required to create it, and installation work is becoming larger.

As can be seen from the illustration, both the supply pipe and the return pipe are essentially manifolds to which the corresponding pipes of each of the radiators are connected. The obvious advantage is that the temperature in the supply pipe-collector is maintained almost the same for all heat exchange points, that is, it almost does not depend on the location of a particular battery in relation to the heat source (boiler).

This scheme is also used in systems for houses with several floors. An example is shown in the diagram below:

In this case, the supply riser is muffled from above, as is the "return" pipe, that is, they are turned into two parallel vertical collectors.

Here it is important to understand one nuance correctly. The presence of two pipes near the radiator does not mean at all that the system itself is a two-pipe system. For example, with vertical wiring, there may be such a picture:

Such an arrangement can mislead an inexperienced owner in these matters. Despite the presence of two risers, the system is still single-pipe, since the heating radiator is connected to only one of them. And the second is a riser that provides the upper supply of coolant.

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aluminum radiator

It's different if the connection looks like this:

The difference is obvious: the battery is embedded in two different pipes- supply and return. That is why there is no bypass jumper between the inputs - it is completely unnecessary with such a scheme.

There are other two-pipe connection schemes. For example, the so-called collector (it is also called "beam" or "star"). This principle is often resorted to when they try to place all the pipes of the circuit wiring secretly, for example, under the floor covering.

In such cases, a collector node is placed in a certain place, and from it already has separate supply and return pipes for each of the radiators. But at its core, it's still a two-pipe system.

Why is all this being told? And to the fact that if the system is two-pipe, then in order to select the radiator connection scheme, it is important to clearly know which of the pipes is the supply manifold, and which is connected to the "return".

But the direction of flow through the pipes themselves, which was decisive for a single-pipe system, does not play a role here. The movement of the coolant directly through the radiator will depend solely on the relative position of the tie-in pipes into the supply and into the "return".

By the way, even in conditions not very big house A combination of both schemes may well be used. For example, a two-pipe system was used, however, in a separate area, say, in one of the spacious rooms or in an extension, several radiators connected according to the single-pipe principle are located. And this means that in order to choose a connection scheme, it is important not to get confused, and individually evaluate each heat exchange point: what will be decisive for it - the direction of flow in the pipe or mutual arrangement pipes-collectors of the halfway and "return".

If such clarity is achieved, it is possible to select the optimal scheme for connecting radiators to the circuits.

Schemes for connecting radiators to the circuit and evaluating their effectiveness

All of the above was a kind of "prelude" to this section. Now we will get acquainted with how radiators can be connected to the pipes of the circuit, and which method gives the maximum heat transfer efficiency.

As we have already seen, two radiator inputs are activated, and two more are muffled. What direction of movement of the coolant through the battery will be optimal?

A few more preliminary words. What are the "motivating reasons" for the movement of the coolant through the channels of the radiator.

• This is, firstly, the dynamic pressure of the liquid created in the heating circuit. The liquid tends to fill the entire volume if conditions are created for this (there are no air pockets). But it is quite clear that, like any stream, it will tend to flow along the path of least resistance.
• Secondly, " driving force»becomes the temperature difference (and, accordingly, the density) of the coolant in the radiator cavity itself. Hotter streams tend to rise, trying to displace the cooled ones.

The combination of these forces ensures the flow of coolant through the radiator channels. But depending on the connection scheme, the overall picture can vary quite a lot.

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cast iron radiator

Diagonal connection, infeed from above

Such a scheme is considered to be the most effective. Radiators with such a connection show their capabilities to the fullest. Usually, when calculating a heating system, it is she who is taken as a “unit”, and one or another correction factor will be introduced for all the others.

It is quite obvious that a priori, the coolant cannot meet any obstacles with such a connection. The liquid completely fills the volume of the pipe of the upper manifold, flows evenly through the vertical channels from the upper manifold to the lower one. As a result, the entire heat exchange area of ​​the radiator is heated evenly, and the maximum heat transfer of the battery is achieved.

One-way connection, feed from above

Highly common scheme - this is how radiators are usually mounted in a single-pipe system in the risers of high-rise buildings with an upper supply, or on descending branches - with a lower supply.

In principle, the circuit is quite effective, especially if the radiator itself is not too long. But if there are a lot of sections in the battery, then the appearance of negative moments is not excluded.

It is quite likely that the kinetic energy of the coolant will be insufficient for the flow to fully pass through the upper collector to the very end. The liquid is looking for "easy ways", and the bulk of the flow begins to pass through the vertical internal channels of the sections, which are located closer to the inlet pipe. Thus, it is impossible to completely exclude the formation in the “peripheral zone” of a stagnation area, the temperature of which will be lower than in the area adjacent to the side of the tie-in.

Even with normal dimensions of radiators along the length, one usually has to put up with a loss of thermal power of about 3÷5%. Well, if the batteries are long, then the efficiency can be even lower. In this case, it is better to apply either the first scheme, or use special methods for optimizing the connection - a separate section of the publication will be devoted to this.

One-way connection, infeed from below

The scheme cannot be called effective in any way, although, by the way, it is used quite often when installing single-pipe heating systems in multi-storey buildings, if the supply is from below. On the ascending branch, all the batteries in the riser are most often built in this way. and, probably, this is the only slightly justified case of its use.

For all, it seems, the similarity with the previous one, the shortcomings here are only exacerbated. In particular, the occurrence of a dead zone in the side of the radiator remote from the inlet becomes even more likely. This is easily explained. Not only will the coolant look for the shortest and freest path, the difference in density will also contribute to its upward trend. And the periphery can either “freeze” or the circulation in it will be insufficient. That is, the far edge of the radiator will become noticeably colder.

The loss of heat transfer efficiency with such a connection can reach 20÷22%. That is, unless absolutely necessary, it is not recommended to resort to it. And if circumstances leave no other choice, then it is recommended to resort to one of the optimization methods.

Bidirectional bottom connection

Such a scheme is used quite often, usually for reasons of hiding the supply pipe from visibility as much as possible. However, its effectiveness is still far from optimal.

It is quite obvious that the easiest way for the coolant is the lower collector. Its upward propagation along vertical channels occurs solely due to the difference in density. But this flow becomes a "brake" oncoming flows of the cooled liquid. As a result - top part the radiator can warm up much more slowly and not as intensively as we would like.

Losses in the overall heat exchange efficiency with such a connection can reach up to 10÷15%. True, such a scheme is also easy to optimize.

Diagonal connection from below

It is difficult to think of a situation in which one would have to resort to such a connection. However, consider this scheme.

Prices for bimetallic radiators

bimetal radiators

The direct flow entering the radiator gradually wastes its kinetic energy, and may simply “not finish off” along the entire length of the lower collector. This is facilitated by the fact that the flows in the initial section rush upwards, both along the shortest path and due to the temperature difference. As a result, on a battery with a large comic section, it is quite likely that a stagnant area with a low temperature will appear under the return pipe.

Approximate loss of efficiency, despite the apparent similarity with the most optimal option, with this connection are estimated at 20%.

Bilateral top connection

Let's be honest - this is more of an example, since putting such a scheme into practice would be the height of illiteracy.

Judge for yourself - a direct passage through the upper manifold is open for liquid. And in general, there are no other incentives for distribution throughout the rest of the radiator volume. That is, only the area along the upper collector will really warm up - the rest of it turns out to be “outside the game”. It is hardly worth evaluating the loss of efficiency in this case - the radiator itself turns into a clearly inefficient one.

The top two-way connection is rarely used. Nevertheless, there are also such radiators - pronouncedly high, often simultaneously acting as dryers. And if you have to bring the pipes in this way, then without fail apply various ways transformation of such a connection into an optimal scheme. Very often this is already incorporated in the design of the radiators themselves, that is, the upper one-way connection remains such only visually.

How can you optimize the radiator connection scheme?

It is quite clear that any owners want their heating system to show maximum efficiency with minimal energy consumption. And for this we must try to apply the most optimal tie-in schemes. But often the piping is already there and you don’t want to redo it. Or, initially, the owners plan to lay pipes so that they become almost invisible. How to be in such cases?

On the Internet, you can find a lot of photos when they try to optimize the tie-in by changing the configuration of the pipes suitable for the battery. The effect of increasing heat transfer in this case must be achieved, but outwardly some works of such “art” look, frankly, “not very good”.

There are other methods to solve this problem.

• You can purchase batteries that, while outwardly no different from ordinary ones, still have a feature in their design that turns one or another possible connection method as close to optimal as possible. In the right place between the sections, a partition is installed in them, which radically changes the direction of movement of the coolant.

In particular, the radiator can be designed for bottom two-way connection:

All the "wisdom" is in the presence of a partition (plug) in the lower manifold between the first and second sections of the battery. The coolant has nowhere to go, and it rises up vertical channel of the first section up. And then, from this high point, further distribution, quite obviously, is already underway, as in the most optimal diagram with a diagonal connection with a feed from above.

Or, for example, the case mentioned above when it is required to bring both pipes from above:

In this example, the baffle is installed on the upper manifold, between the penultimate and last sections of the radiator. It turns out that there is only one way left for the entire volume of the coolant - through the lower entrance of the last section, vertically along it - and further into the return pipe. Eventually " traffic route» fluid through the channels of the battery again becomes diagonal from top to bottom.

Many radiator manufacturers think over this issue in advance - whole series go on sale in which the same model can be designed for various schemes tie-ins, but the result is an optimal "diagonal". This is indicated in the product data sheets. At the same time, it is also important to take into account the direction of the insert - if you change the flow vector, then the entire effect is lost.

• There is another possibility to increase the efficiency of the radiator according to this principle. To do this, in specialized stores you should find special valves.

They must match the size of the selected battery model. When such a valve is screwed in, it closes the adapter nipple between the sections, and then in its internal thread the supply or "return" pipe is packed, depending on the scheme.

• shown above internal partitions are intended at least to improve heat transfer when batteries are connected on both sides. But there are ways for one-sided tie-in - we are talking about the so-called flow extensions.

Such an extension is a pipe, usually with a nominal diameter of 16 mm, which is connected to the radiator through-hole plug and, during assembly, ends up in the collector cavity, along its axis. On sale you can find such extensions for the required type of thread and the required length. Or, a special coupling is simply purchased, and the tube of the required length is selected separately for it.

Prices for metal-plastic pipes

metal-plastic pipes

What is achieved by this? Let's look at the diagram:

The coolant entering the radiator cavity, through the flow extension, enters the far upper corner, that is, to the opposite edge of the upper collector. And from here, its movement to the outlet pipe will already be carried out again according to the optimal "diagonal from top to bottom" scheme.

Many masters practice and independent production similar extensions. If you figure it out, then nothing is impossible in this.

Can be used as an extension cord metal-plastic pipe for hot water, with a diameter of 15 mm. It remains only from the inside to pack the fitting for the metal-plastic into the passage plug of the battery. After assembling the battery, the extension cord of the desired length is in place.

As can be seen from the foregoing, it is almost always possible to find a solution on how to turn an inefficient battery insertion scheme into an optimal one.

And what about a one-way bottom connection?

They may ask in bewilderment - why is the scheme of the lower connection of the radiator on one side not mentioned in the article yet? After all, it is quite popular, as it allows you to carry out a hidden pipe connection to the maximum extent.

But the fact is that possible schemes were considered above, so to speak, from a hydraulic point of view. And in their one-way bottom connection there is simply no place - if at one point both the coolant is supplied and the coolant is taken away, then no flow through the radiator will happen at all.

What is commonly understood under bottom one-way connection in fact, it involves only the supply of pipes to one edge of the radiator. But the further movement of the coolant through the internal channels, as a rule, is organized according to one of the optimal schemes discussed above. This is achieved either by the features of the device of the battery itself, or by special adapters.

Here is just one example of radiators specially designed for pipe connections. one side bottom:

If you understand the scheme, it immediately becomes clear that the system of internal channels, partitions and valves organizes the movement of the coolant according to the principle already known to us “one-way with supply from above”, which can be considered one of the best options. There are similar schemes, which are also supplemented with a flow extension, and then the most effective "diagonal from top to bottom" pattern is generally achieved.

Even an ordinary radiator can be easily converted into a model with a bottom connection. To do this, a special kit is purchased - a remote adapter, which, as a rule, is immediately equipped with thermal valves for thermostatic adjustment of the radiator.

The upper and lower pipes of such a device are packed into the sockets of a conventional radiator without any modifications. The result is a finished battery with a lower one-way connection, and even with a thermal control and balancing device.

So, we figured out the connection diagrams. But what else can affect the heat transfer efficiency of a heating radiator?

How does the location of the radiator on the wall affect the efficiency of the radiator?

You can purchase a very high-quality radiator, apply the optimal scheme for its connection, but in the end you will not achieve the expected heat transfer, if you do not take into account a number of other important nuances its installation.

There are several generally accepted rules for the location of batteries in a room relative to the wall, floor, window sills, and other interior items.

• Most often, radiators are located under window openings. This place is still unclaimed for other objects, and besides this, the streams of heated air become like a thermal curtain, which largely limits the free distribution of cold from the window surface.

Of course, this is just one of the installation options, and radiators can also be mounted on walls, regardless of the presence on those window openings- it all depends on the required number of such heat exchange devices.

• If the radiator is installed under the window, then they try to adhere to the rule that its length should be about ¾ of the width of the window. This way, optimal indicators of heat transfer and protection against the penetration of cold air from the window will be obtained. The battery is installed in the center, with a possible tolerance in one direction or another up to 20 mm.
• You should not install the battery too high - the window sill hanging over it can turn into a formidable barrier to ascending convection air flows, which leads to a decrease in the overall heat transfer efficiency. They try to maintain a clearance of about 100 mm (from the upper edge of the battery to the lower surface of the "visor"). If it is not possible to set all 100 mm, then at least ¾ of the thickness of the radiator.
• There is a certain regulation and clearance from below, between the radiator and the floor surface. Too high an arrangement (more than 150 mm) can lead to the formation of a layer of air along the floor covering that is not involved in convection, that is, a noticeably cold layer. Too low a height, less than 100 mm, will bring unnecessary difficulties when cleaning, the space under the battery can turn into a dust accumulation, which, by the way, will also negatively affect the efficiency of heat transfer. The optimal height is within 100 ÷ 120 mm.
• The optimal location from the load-bearing wall should also be maintained. Even when installing the brackets for the battery canopy, it is taken into account that there must be a free clearance of at least 20 mm between the wall and the sections. Otherwise, deposits of dust may accumulate there, and normal convection will be disturbed.

These rules can be considered indicative. If the manufacturer of radiators does not give other recommendations, then they should be guided by them. But very often in the passports of specific battery models there are diagrams that specify the recommended installation parameters. Of course, then they are taken as the basis for the installation work.

The next nuance is how open it is installed battery for complete heat transfer. Of course, the maximum performance will be with a completely open installation on a flat vertical wall surface. But, quite understandably, this method is not used so often.

If the battery is under the window, then the window sill may interfere with the convection air flow. The same, even to a greater extent, applies to niches in the wall. In addition, they often try to cover radiators, or even completely closed (with the exception of the front grille) casings. If these nuances are not taken into account when choosing the required heating power, that is, the heat output of the battery, then it is quite possible to encounter the sad fact that it is not possible to achieve the expected comfortable temperature.

The table below shows the main possible options for installing radiators on the wall according to their "degrees of freedom". Each of the cases is characterized by its own indicator of the loss of efficiency of the overall heat transfer.

Illustration	Operational features of the installation option
	The radiator is installed in such a way that it does not overlap with anything from above, or the window sill (shelf) protrudes no more than ¾ of the battery thickness. In principle, there are no barriers to normal air convection. If the battery is not closed with thick curtains, then there is no interference for direct thermal radiation. In calculations, such an installation scheme is taken as a unit.
	The horizontal "visor" of the window sill or shelf completely covers the radiator from above. That is, a rather significant obstacle appears for the upward convection flow. With a normal clearance (which was already mentioned above - about 100 mm), the obstacle does not become "fatal", but certain efficiency losses are still observed. The infrared radiation from the battery remains in full. The final loss of efficiency can be estimated at about 3÷5%.
	A similar situation, but only not a visor is located on top, but a horizontal wall of a niche. Here, the losses are already somewhat greater - in addition to simply having an obstacle to the air flow, some of the heat will be spent on unproductive heating of the wall, which usually has a very impressive heat capacity. Therefore, it is quite possible to expect heat losses of approximately 7 - 8%.
	The radiator is installed as in the first option, that is, there are no obstacles to convection flows. But on the front side, over its entire area, it is covered with a decorative grille or screen. The intensity of the infrared heat flux is significantly reduced, which, by the way, is the determining principle of heat transfer for cast iron or bimetallic batteries. The total loss of heating efficiency can reach 10÷12%.
	The decorative casing covers the radiator from all sides. Despite the presence of slots or gratings to ensure heat exchange with the air in the room, the indicators of both thermal radiation and convection are sharply reduced. Therefore, we have to talk about the loss of efficiency, reaching up to 20÷25%.

So, we have considered the main schemes for connecting radiators to the heating circuit, analyzed the advantages and disadvantages of each of them. Information has been obtained on the applied methods for optimizing circuits, if for some reason it is impossible to change them in other ways. Finally, recommendations are given for placing batteries directly on the wall - indicating the risks of loss of efficiency that accompany selected installation options.

It must be assumed that these theoretical knowledge will help the reader to choose the correct scheme based on from the specific conditions for creating a heating system. But it would probably be logical to complete the article by giving our visitor the opportunity to independently evaluate the necessary heating battery, so to speak, in numerical terms, with reference to a specific room and taking into account all the nuances discussed above.

There is no need to be afraid - all this will be easy if you use the proposed online calculator. And below will be given the necessary brief explanations for working with the program.

How to calculate which radiator is needed for a particular room?

Everything is quite simple.

• First, the amount of thermal energy that is needed to heat the room, depending on its volume, and to compensate for possible heat losses is calculated. And, a rather impressive list of versatile criteria is taken into account.
• Then the obtained value is adjusted depending on the planned radiator tie-in scheme and the features of its location on the wall.
• The final value will show how much power a radiator needs to fully heat a particular room. If a collapsible model is purchased, then you can at the same time

Content

When arranging or reconstructing a heating system, it is often necessary to replace or install batteries. Installation of heating radiators can be carried out on their own, without resorting to the help of specialists, but only strictly observing the requirements of SNiP. When performing work, you will need theoretical knowledge, and practical experience, because even the slightest mistake can lead to problems during the operation of the heating system.

Radiator battery installation

Necessary Theory

Two types of heating systems are most widely used today:

• single-pipe;
• two-pipe.

A feature of single-pipe systems should be called the supply of coolant to the house from top to bottom. This scheme is used in most typical apartment buildings. The disadvantage of the system is the inability to control temperature regime in a home without installation additional equipment. With this method of heating, the water in the radiators on the upper floors will be significantly warmer than those below.

Heating system installation

With two-pipe heating, the heated coolant is supplied through one pipe, and the water that has given up its heat circulates through the second (return pipe). Such a heating system is used in cottages and private houses. The advantage of two-pipe systems is the relative constancy of the temperature of the batteries and the ability to control the heating mode.

Radiator Installation Diagrams

The differences in installation schemes lie in the way they are connected to a private or centralized network.

The most common schemes are the following:

1. Side connection. Allows you to achieve the highest heat transfer.
   The supply pipe is connected to the branch pipe located at the top, and the return pipe is connected to the lower one. When connected the other way around (water supply from below), the power of the system is reduced.
2. Diagonal connection. Optimal for batteries of considerable length, characterized by minimal heat loss.
   In this case, uniform heating of the radiators occurs. The inlet pipe is connected on one side of the upper branch pipe, and the outlet pipe is connected on the reverse side of the branch pipe located below.
3. The lower connection ("Leningradka") is used for hidden pipe laying.

Wiring diagram options

Installation of heating devices according to such a scheme, characterized by significant heat losses, is used when laying heating pipes in the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe lower ceiling.

What is needed for installation

To fix the heating devices, you will need to purchase various materials and additional devices. Their set is almost identical, but for cast iron batteries, for example, you will need plugs of a larger diameter, installation of an air vent instead of a Mayevsky tap.

Installation of bimetallic and aluminum batteries is absolutely the same.

When choosing a radiator, it should be taken into account that many manufacturers provide a guarantee for devices only when they are installed by organizations that have the appropriate license.

Necessary tools and materials

When installing radiators with your own hands, you will definitely need to use brackets or holders. Their number is determined depending on the size of the radiators:

• if you plan to put the device on no more than eight sections or up to 1.2 m long, two points are enough for secure fastening - above and below;
• every subsequent 5–6 sections or 50 cm of battery length require the addition of another pair of fasteners.

Also, to install batteries, you must purchase:

• linen winding or fum tape;
• drill with a set of drills;
• level;
• dowels;
• elements for connecting fittings and pipes.

Mayevsky crane or automatic air vent

The Mayevsky crane is a device that is used at an unoccupied upper exit. Serves to remove accumulated air. Such a device must be installed on each heater when installing aluminum or bimetallic batteries. The cross section of the Mayevsky crane is much smaller than the cross section of the collector, therefore the connection is made by means of an adapter supplied in the kit.

Mayevsky crane

In addition to the Mayevsky crane, automatic air vents, made in nickel-plated or brass, can also be installed on the battery. For standard batteries, devices in a white enameled case are not available.

Stub

The radiator has four outlets when connected to the side. Two of them are for supply and return, the third is occupied by a Mayevsky crane or an air vent, and the fourth must be closed with a plug. They are made from various materials suitable for any type of battery.

Shut-off and control valves

To properly install and connect the battery, you will also need a pair of shut-off or control valves installed at the inlet and outlet of each battery. Ordinary ball valves are required to quickly disconnect the device from the mains during dismantling. The system will continue to work.

The advantage of ball valves is their low cost, the disadvantage is the impossibility of regulating heat transfer.

Ball Valves

The same functions, but with the ability to control the intensity of the flow of the coolant, are capable of performing control shut-off valves. Their cost differs upwards, but, at the same time, their aesthetic characteristics are higher. They can be angular and straight.

Also on the supply pipe behind the ball valve, you can place a thermostat - a small device that allows you to change the heat transfer of the radiator. However, if the battery does not heat well, thermostats cannot be installed, as they will reduce the already small flow. Heat transfer can be controlled by turning the knob to the required division (mechanical devices) or by pre-programming the radiator operation mode (electronic thermostats).

Rules and installation procedure

As a rule, a heater is installed under the window, since the rising heated air cuts off the cold coming from the opening. To prevent fogging of glasses, the width of the radiator must be selected at 70–75% of the width of the window.

Basic installation rules

The following rules for mounting heating radiators to indents are recommended by SNiP:

• The heating radiator is installed exactly in the middle of the window opening. Before installation, the width is divided into two, then the distances to the points of location of the fasteners are laid off on the right and left sides.
• The radiator should recede from the floor level to a height of 8-14 cm. A smaller interval will lead to difficulties in cleaning, and a larger one will lead to the formation of zones of unheated air.
• Radiators should be hung at a distance of 10–12 cm from the windowsill. If the device is placed closer, convection will worsen and heat transfer will decrease.
• The distance from the wall to the radiator should be about 3-5 cm, it is this size of the gap that can ensure unhindered heat distribution and normal convection. If too close to the walls, dust will accumulate on the back of the batteries, which is quite difficult to remove.

Taking into account the requirements of SNiP, it is possible to determine the optimal length of the battery and select a model that meets specific conditions.

Distance from the battery to the window sill and floor

The above rules are the same for all types of radiators. Individual manufacturers set their own standards, which must be followed. Therefore, before buying, it is necessary to study the requirements during installation, to make sure that they can be observed in specific conditions.

Work order

Do-it-yourself installation of a heating radiator requires careful attention to each stage of work, taking into account any detail. For hanging sections, experts recommend using three attachment points: two upper and one lower.

Any sectional battery is hung on the holders through the upper manifold. Thus, the fastener located at the top bears the main load, and the holder located below serves as a guide and fixing element.

Features of work performance

The process of installing heating batteries is carried out in several stages:

1. Marking and installation of holders.
2. Installation on the battery of components.
   Modern heating systems require the mandatory installation of an automatic or manual air vent. The device is screwed into the adapter and placed on the upper manifold opposite the connection point of the supply pipe.
   Plugs must be installed on unoccupied collectors.
   If the diameters of the supply and return pipes differ with the cross section of the collectors, it is necessary to install the adapters supplied in the standard kit.
3. Installation of regulating and locking devices.
   Irrespective of the accepted connection scheme, in any systems, shut-off valves in the form of full-bore ball valves are mounted at the battery input and output points, which allow the battery to be dismantled without stopping the system in case of repair work or Maintenance. The only condition is the presence of a bypass when installing the battery in apartments with a vertical type of wiring.
   

   According to the recommendations of experts, the installation of an automatic or manual thermostat is required as control devices. The installation standards for heating radiators do not classify these devices as mandatory, they are required to maintain a comfortable temperature for the owners in the room.

4. Mounting on brackets.
   Radiators are delivered in a protective film. Before installing a heating radiator, the surface should not be freed from the film - it will protect against dirt and scratches, since the battery is usually installed at the beginning of repair work. If the radiator is installed instead of the old one, the film can be removed immediately after hanging.
5. Connecting the supply pipe and return.
   The connection depends on the scheme. The type of connection (crimp, threaded, welded or under the press) is selected based on the pipes and fittings used.
6. Pressure testing of the system or radiator.

Self-filling the system with coolant, the taps should be opened little by little. The rapid opening of the taps will lead to a water hammer that can disable the battery and destroy the fittings.

The subtleties of attaching to the wall

Each battery manufacturer provides an instruction manual that sets out the requirements and tips for installation. But one requirement is the same: the radiator should be mounted on a pre-aligned and cleaned wall.

wall mount

Proper fastening of the brackets affects the efficiency of the heating system. Too much slope or skew in any direction can lead to incomplete heating of the battery, to eliminate which the device will have to be outweighed. Therefore, when preparing the surface and performing markings, the vertical and horizontal positions should be strictly observed. The battery must be hung exactly in relation to all planes.

It is allowed to make a rise of 1 cm from the side of the air vent installation, which will lead to the accumulation of air in this area and facilitate its removal. Slope in the opposite direction is not allowed.

When installing bimetallic radiators and batteries of other types with a small mass, hanging should be done on a pair of hooks located on top. If the length of the device is small, they should be placed between the last two sections. The location of the third bracket must be chosen in the middle from the bottom. Hooks after installation can be sealed with mortar.

Hooks for fixing aluminum and bimetal sections

When placing the brackets on their own, holes are drilled at the intended points, plugs made of wood or dowels are placed. The holders are fastened with self-tapping screws with a length of 35 mm and a diameter of at least 6 mm. Such requirements are standard, the rate for a particular battery model is indicated in the technical data sheet.

Panel radiators are installed a little differently. Such devices are supplied with special fasteners, the number of which depends on the size of the device.

To hang a heating radiator on its back surface there are special brackets. To install fasteners, you need to know the distance from the center of the battery to the brackets and transfer it in the form of marks to the wall. Further, applying fasteners, holes for dowels are outlined. The steps are simple: drilling, installing dowels, fixing the brackets with self-tapping screws.

Features of installing radiators in an apartment

Reviewed rules self-assembly allow you to connect batteries in the conditions of autonomous and centralized heating systems.

Before replacing or installing batteries, please note that work must be carried out after obtaining permission from the operator or management company- the heating system is considered common property. A significant change in the characteristics of the network leads to an imbalance in the system.

Bypass installation

Installing radiators in an apartment has another feature. Vertical single-pipe wiring requires the installation of a bypass - a special jumper between the supply pipe and the return pipe. In combination with ball valves, the bypass allows you to turn off the battery in case of an accident or other urgent need. At the same time, the system continues to function, as the heated water passes through the bypass.

A bypass will also be required when installing a battery with a thermostat.

Conclusion on the topic

The process of installing heating batteries, if you follow the instructions in the article, should not raise additional questions. With proper preparation, adherence to the sequence of work and responsible attitude, the system will effectively last for several decades.