To ensure a quality standard of living in country house it is necessary to take care of the convenience of the outflow of used water and waste products. Properly calculated at the design stage and subsequently installed sewerage in a private house is the key to long and trouble-free operation. Such a design can be mounted independently, with your own hands, if you approach this issue thoroughly. The design of the house plays a key role in drawing up the scheme of the internal pipeline, but for laying the external sewer networks, several rules must be followed.

Where to place the sewer on the site

The sewerage device in a private house must be carried out in accordance with all the rules and regulations so that its operation is long and trouble-free. Internal - combines all the pipes that are inside the house and plumbing fixtures. Its main purpose is to lead Wastewater formed in the course of human life. Installation of the internal sewerage system is carried out taking into account SNiP according to a pre-agreed plan. But the main thing in this project is the installation of a cesspool, septic tank or other container for collecting wastewater.

The main rules for the construction of a cesspool:

The distance to the object for living should be 5-12 meters. If the distance is greater, then difficulties may arise with the outflow of fluid from the pipes.

The distance between the outbuildings and the sump must be at least 1 meter.

The distance from the neighbor's fence is 2-4 meters.

Distance from decorative and garden plants- 3-4 meters.

From wells and wells, a sump with sewage should be located at a distance of at least 30 meters.

The depth of the pit is determined depending on the level of groundwater, but not less than three meters.

The bulk of sewage should be below the freezing point of the soil. The tank can be filled with a gap of 35 cm to the top cover.

Sewer options

Which treatment systems to install directly depends on the desire and capabilities of the owner. There are such types of sewer systems:

Septic tank - allows you to ensure not only the collection of wastewater, but also their processing. In the chambers of such tanks, wastewater is settled and processed by special bacteria that feed on organic matter.

Biological wastewater treatment using a special station. This option is distinguished by a high degree of wastewater treatment and high productivity. However, the station depends on electricity and is quite expensive.

Dry closet - this option is only suitable for giving, where the owners live intermittently. The dry closet is not able to solve the problem of drains from their kitchen and shower.

Cesspool - this option was previously resorted to most often. But due to technological progress, against the background of which the number of household items interacting with water has increased (dishwasher and washing machine), the number of drains has increased markedly, and the volume of the cesspool has ceased to cope with it. And the risk of soil contamination in this case is much higher.

You can make a sewer in a private house with your own hands in all of the above cases, except, perhaps, for installing a cleaning station. Here you can not do without the help of specialists.

1. Cesspool

   To install a cesspool, a long and voluminous pit is dug in the ground, where wastewater from the toilet, kitchen and bathroom is drained through pipes. In some cases, the pit is lined with bricks. The advantages of this design include low cost and ease of installation. However, the cesspool still has more disadvantages:

   

   It all depends on which pit the owner preferred. The design with an earthen bottom is more dangerous in an ecological sense and can lead to poisoning of the entire site. A sealed pit is a brick-lined structure with concrete bottom. This option is safer and requires cleaning 1-2 times a year. A concrete ring structure is also considered an airtight pit.

2. Sealed tank

   A popular option is a sealed storage tank, which can be metal or plastic. The first option has significant drawbacks - it is subject to corrosion and needs to be replaced over time, especially in such an aggressive environment as wastewater. Also, a metal tank requires a waterproofing procedure.

   

   Sealed tank

   A plastic container is a more suitable option, which has a lot of advantages:

   The disadvantages of a plastic container include its rather high cost.

3. Single chamber septic tank

   This option is suitable for a small family of three, where the total volume of water for local sewerage does not exceed 1000 liters. The design of a single-chamber septic tank is a sealed container or structure with a filter for discharging water into the soil. The last option is a construction of concrete rings with the periodic addition of biological preparations to the tank in order to improve the quality of cleaning.

   

   Advantages of a single-chamber septic tank:

   Low price and ease of installation;

   The ability to do all the work with your own hands;

   Safety for environment;

   No unpleasant odor;

   A reinforced concrete septic tank, like a plastic container, is resistant to aggressive environments;

   Durability of operation.

   The principle of operation of this design is very simple: wastewater enters the septic tank through pipes, solid particles settle to the bottom. From the sump, water goes to the soil and soil for treatment. The main thing is to choose the right place drainage area, the installation depth of the septic tank was correctly determined and the volume of the tank was calculated.

   The disadvantages of a single-chamber septic tank include the need to install it on great depth to prevent spillage of sewage into water resources.

4. Two-chamber septic tank

   When is it advisable to install a two-chamber septic tank in a private house? The first chamber of this design is used for settling water and its purification. All impurities settle in it, and only water, oil and the remains of household chemicals remain on top. Secondary wastewater treatment takes place in the second chamber. Oil and household chemicals are already deposited here. Only the water remains at the level, which is 65% purer than it was before. When the container overflows, its top layer falls into the soil. But due to the insignificant level of contamination of the liquid, it does not pose a danger to the environment. A two-chamber septic tank for sewage in a private house provides a high level of wastewater treatment and safety. This design is suitable for installation in big house where 5-8 people live.

   

   Advantages of a two-chamber septic tank:

   High quality wastewater treatment;

   The container does not rust and lasts up to 50 years;

   Installation of a two-chamber septic tank can be done by hand.

   To weak side such structures can be attributed to the need to sometimes clean it from silt. It is worth knowing that this should be done carefully, without completely getting rid of silting, because microorganisms that feed on organic compounds from drains and live in it participate in the separation.

5. Septic tank with biofilter

   A biofilter in a septic tank is a container that is filled with an inert material (expanded clay). How does a biofilter work:

   Sewer masses enter the sump, are cleaned and enter the biofilter;

   Aerobic bacteria living in the biofilter break down and oxidize organic compounds from wastewater;

   The water is cleaned of contaminants and enters the drainage pipe.

   

   The advantage of septic tanks with a biofilter in high degree wastewater treatment, reduction of the area of ​​the soil post-treatment site and complete autonomy of the structure. The disadvantages of the structure include the need to add biological products, high price, the need for regular cleaning of the biofilter and the periodic release of the septic tank from wastewater using a sewage machine. However, sewage almost completely leaves the water, settling and splitting in the process of separation, giving out clean water, which covers all the disadvantages of a container with a biofilter.

General rules for installing treatment systems for a private house

All options for structures require a competent and correct approach. Therefore, having decided to conduct a sewer pipeline with your own hands, and preferring the option that is better in your opinion, it is still advisable to consult with specialists. After installing any type of sewer, you should clearly follow all the rules of operation, clean it in time, and monitor the level of overcrowding. Only then will living in a country dwelling be as comfortable as possible and will not harm the environment.

Do-it-yourself sewerage in a private house is, of course, the pride of the owner. Although it is quite possible to order a turnkey project, and then the installation will be carried out correctly by specialists high level. Indeed, in addition to sewerage, a water supply system is required, laying which is not an easy task.

• 1 Why do I need sewerage for a private house
  • 1.1 Factors influencing the choice of the type of sewerage of a private house
• 2 Views
  • 2.1 Water supply
  • 2.2 Choosing a location for the sewer system

Why do you need sewerage for a private house

Few of those who live in an apartment have a question about the need for a sewerage or water supply system. Their installation was done a long time ago, this is a natural thing for an apartment.

But not everyone a private house boasts the same water supply and sewerage system as in high-rise city apartments. Therefore, laying sewers in a private house is often done independently.

Why is she needed? Everything is simple. Sewerage and water supply system gives comfort, coziness, provides a person with the benefits of civilization.

If you are laying these systems in a private house construction project, then there should be no problems. It is much more difficult if the sewerage and water supply scheme is installed in an already built house.

The project of the future sewerage can be carried out according to two schemes:

• Inside the building there is a shower and a sink, and the toilet is taken out to the street. Such a project is quite simple, since it does without complex laying of pipelines and treatment facilities. The sewer pipe is removed from the house, a simple sewage treatment system is created on the site, that is, a sewer pit;
• Sink, shower and toilet inside. Here, the wastewater treatment system is required more complicated so as not to pollute your own site and the water near it with waste. You will definitely need a septic tank.

Factors influencing the choice of the type of sewerage of a private house

Notice a few important factors, which will allow you to correctly select the sewer system for a private house, use suitable project to create water supply and wastewater disposal:

• The house serves for temporary or permanent residence;
• The number of people who regularly live in the house;
• Daily water consumption rate, taking into account all consumers (faucets, showers, toilets, washing machines, dishwashers, etc.);
• The level of groundwater;
• Plot size, which determines the available space for the treatment system;
• Soil type, its structure;
• Climatic features;
• SNIP requirements.

Kinds

In general, all sewage systems can be divided into only two types:

• Cumulative;
• Wastewater treatment systems.

But it would be right to consider a more detailed classification, since the difference between the same type of sewerage and water supply systems can be significant.

1. Cesspools without a bottom. Such sewerage of a private house is relevant only if it is visited 5-6 days a month, without spending a large number of water. The groundwater level should be about a meter below the pit, otherwise water pollution cannot be avoided. Not popular today.
2. Accumulative sealed containers. Option to solve the problems of high groundwater levels. The soil is protected from pollution. But there is a drawback - you will often have to call a pumping machine. And for this, a place is calculated correctly so that the car can easily drive up and pump out waste.
3. Single chamber septic tanks. The easiest option for soil cleansing, which is not much different from a cesspool. If people constantly live in the house and actively use water, it is not recommended to choose such a project. This is a temporary residence system where the water table is low.
4. Double chamber septic tanks. Such a project is allowed for implementation only if the depth of groundwater allows even during a flood to be 1 meter lower than the bottom of the second tank. Approximately every 5 years, crushed stone and sand used for installation must be changed.
5. Septic tank equipped with a filtration field. This system includes biological and soil treatment at the same time. The container is divided into two sections. It is allowed to install such a sewage system when groundwater is at least 2.5-3 meters. Requires a fairly large free area, is located at least 30 meters from the nearest water sources and neighboring buildings.
6. Septic tanks with biofilters. Almost best circuit for frequent houses with people permanently residing in it. Special microorganisms are added by simply pouring them into the toilet bowl. There are no special restrictions, but an electrical connection is required.
7. Systems with forced air supply. The so-called aerotanks, which are expensive, but largely justify the investment. They have no installation restrictions, but require permanent residence of people and the presence of a source of electricity. Minimum price systems - about 4 thousand dollars.

Water supply

In many ways, it is possible to implement a particular sewage project based on the water supply system. If there are problems with it, it will be difficult to create an effective drainage of wastewater.

Many prefer the use of concrete rings to create wells, wells. The installation of concrete rings is carried out by specialists using the appropriate equipment and machinery.

First, develop a water supply project, which will allow you to decide what kind of sewerage will be on your site.

The laying of concrete rings, the depth of which depends on the occurrence of groundwater, is trusted on a turnkey basis. It is turnkey work that is the most profitable and rational. It is unlikely that it will be possible to organize a well on your own.

In some situations, the use of concrete rings can be avoided - a centralized water supply system is connected to a private house. Today this is not uncommon. But it is important to note that your own well has its advantages:

• This is your individual water source;
• Ordering a turnkey project for drilling a well and laying concrete rings is not as expensive as it seems at first glance;
• The quality of water from a well is much higher than that supplied through contaminated pipes of a centralized system;
• The task of concrete rings is not only to give and hold the shape of the well, but also to keep the water clean;
• Connecting the pump to the well is not difficult. Through it, water will flow into your home, ensure the operation of all plumbing and sewerage.

Choosing a place for the sewer system

We figured out that the organization of a turnkey well and the installation of concrete rings - profitable solution for a private house and the creation of water supply.

Since sewerage and plumbing are two inextricably linked systems, it is extremely important to choose the right place for the location of the first.

By choosing a suitable site, you will provide sewerage more efficient and safe work. You need to focus not only on SNIP, but also some other nuances:

1. slope land plot. The drain will go faster and not create blockages if you make a slope. It is also reasonable to use the unevenness of the site itself for this.
2. Despite the variety of systems, each sewage scheme provides for the periodic pumping of waste. Some require ongoing effluent recovery activities. Therefore, consider the possibility for a convenient entrance of the sewer so that it does not harm the site, but at the same time calmly drives up to the hatch.
3. Locate the system away from residential buildings, buildings, fences, and water supplies. The protection of concrete rings will definitely not be enough to prevent waste seeping through the soil from getting there.

Who knows, maybe you can do without rings, organize a simple sewerage system and spend a minimum of effort and money. Some projects are necessarily completed on a turnkey basis, since it is simply impossible to implement with your own hands.

If you are going to call the masters, make sure that these are professionals in their field. Sophisticated sewer equipment needs experienced hands during installation, and also requires users to adhere to certain operating rules. Only in this way the sewerage and water supply system will work for a long time and efficiently.

7015 0 0

Do-it-yourself internal sewerage in a private house: regulatory requirements and practical advice

Normative documents

These building regulations are an updated version of an older document - SNiP 2.04.01-85.

Let's get acquainted with the main requirements of the joint venture related to private construction. Let me comment on some points based on my own experience:

• To divert wastewater to the general sewer, closed gravity pipelines should be used;

Sometimes the terrain forces the use of fecal pumps.
In this case, the pump must be installed in a buffer tank that allows the sewerage system to operate for a limited time in the absence of power supply.

• Pipes are laid in a straight line, without bends. The direction of the gasket can only be changed with the help of fittings;

This fully applies to pipes made of cast iron, PVC and polypropylene.
Polyethylene allows gasket with some bend (up to about 10 angular degrees).
It retains elasticity even at low temperatures, so that cracks and destruction of pipes can not be feared.

• The laying slope must be constant;

This instruction is due to the fact that when the slope changes, the solid fractions of the effluents will linger in areas where it is minimal.
As a result, the likelihood of blockages will increase.

• To connect a horizontal section with a riser, it is strongly recommended to use oblique crosses and corners. An exception is crosses, the branches of which are located in two different planes;

This will greatly simplify cleaning in case of blockage.
Cable or wire resting against the opposite wall straight tee, may fold or move in the opposite direction to the blockage.
The oblique tee will direct the cleaning tool in the direction of the drains.

• Two baths on the same floor can be connected to a common riser only through an oblique cross;

This is necessary so that during a volley discharge of water from one bath, water does not flow into another.
If the tubing is not tightly connected, overflowing the sewer is fraught with flooding of the bathroom.

• For sewerage, it is recommended to use pipes and fittings with a service life of at least 25 years and unchanged throughout the entire service life hydraulic characteristics. Polymer pipes (PVC, polypropylene, polyethylene, etc.) are preferred;
• In the basement, internal sewerage is laid openly. In residential premises, it is allowed to be embedded in the floor, walls, boxes and shafts;

If possible, pipes should be left available for inspection and repair. In my practice, there were blockages that could be cleared only by cutting out a section of the riser.
The most typical case is a large shard of thick glass, standing upright between the walls of a cast-iron pipe.

• The place where the risers pass through the ceiling is sealed with cement mortar for its entire thickness;

In a wooden floor, mounting foam is used for the same purpose.
The goal is to reduce the propagation of sounds between floors, including through the sewer pipe itself, which under certain conditions serves as an excellent resonator.

• It is not allowed to seal pipes in the ceilings of living rooms and kitchens;
• Scheme internal sewerage in a private house, it should include ventilation risers (fan pipes) that are connected to the upper points of the system. The fan pipe is displayed 20 cm above the roof at a distance of at least 4 meters from the nearest opening window. In this case, the exhaust part of the riser should not be thinner than its waste part;

• Installation of deflectors on the fan pipe is prohibited;

With all due respect to the authors of the joint venture, this requirement is not always worth fulfilling.
The deflector will really limit the draft in calm weather, but it will protect the sewer from wind-borne debris and prevent precipitation from falling into it in a downpour.
For cesspool owners who pay for waste disposal, the latter is quite important.

• On the operated roof, the exhaust riser rises above its level by at least three meters;
• The device of the house sewerage should provide for the possibility of its mechanical cleaning in case of blockages. For this purpose, revisions or tees with plugs are provided. In a private house, they are located at the bottom and top of each riser, at the beginning of each straight section with three or more plumbing fixtures, as well as on corners;

• On long straight sections, revisions or tees for cleaning are located in increments depending on the diameter of the pipeline:

Diameter, mm	Step, m
50	8-12
100 — 150	10-15

• If the level of the sides of the plumbing fixture is below the hatch of the nearest yard sewer well (for example, when located in the basement or basement), the corresponding sewer section is equipped with a sewer gate or an automatic fecal pump;
• All hydraulic devices are equipped with water locks that prevent sewer gases from entering the premises;

Connections of elbows and siphons with sewerage are carefully sealed with rubber sealing sleeves. Otherwise, gases will enter the room through the sockets.

• Several washbasins (up to 6 pieces) and several shower cabins or trays can be equipped with a common siphon with a diameter of 50 m, equipped with a revision or a hatch (cover) for cleaning;
• The recommended installation height of plumbing fixtures in the general case (in the absence of people with limited mobility in the family) is:

Practice

Diameters

For bathtubs, washbasins, sinks, shower cabins, urinals, washing machines and dishwashers, the diameter of the connected sewage system is 50 mm. For toilet bowls - 110 mm.

These diameters are sufficient for any reasonable number of plumbing fixtures connected in parallel to the sewer, including two bathtubs in one room, subject to simultaneous volley discharge.

Noise

The sound of water flowing in the pipes will hardly give you much pleasure. A number of simple recommendations will help to avoid it.

• If possible, lay horizontal sewer sections in the underground, basement or behind false walls. Risers are best placed in technical or utility rooms;

• Where the riser passes through the dwelling, cover it with a box of drywall or wall panels. It is desirable to fill the box with sound-absorbing material (as a rule, this is used mineral wool); as an option, the riser can be wrapped with foamed roll insulation;
• Instead of thin-walled PVC or polypropylene pipes, it is desirable to use polyethylene pipes or the so-called silent sewer. Thanks to the mineral filler and the variable density of the layers, it effectively absorbs acoustic vibrations. The price of such pipes, however, is 2-4 times higher than that of conventional PVC, in addition, some manufacturers use their own diameter system that is incompatible with conventional vinyl fittings;
• To fix the riser, use sound-absorbing clamps. equipped with foam rubber gaskets.

Mounting

How to assemble the sewer from plastic pipes with your own hands? Here are the basic installation rules:

• The pipeline is laid with a constant slope of 2 cm / m for a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm and 3.5 cm / m for a diameter of 50 mm. Any counter slope will become a place of constant blockages: it will collect silt and fat deposits;
• The fixing points of the horizontal pipe should be separated from each other by no more than 8 - 10 pipe diameters. If you increase the step between the clamps, loose sections will sag in a year or two, forming sections with a counterslope;
• Vertical pipes are fastened with clamps under the necks of the sockets. Such a mount will not allow them to move under their own weight.

Pipe sockets and fittings must be directed against the direction of flow of drains. In this case, there will be a minimum number of irregularities inside the pipe, for which large-sized debris (paper, rags, etc.) that has fallen into it can catch on.

The pipe is easiest to cut with a grinder. Any abrasive wheel can be used for cutting. When working indoors, remember to protect your lungs with a gauze bandage: breathing plastic dust is below average pleasure.

Be sure to clean after cutting. inner surface pipes from burrs and chamfer the outside. The burrs will collect sewage-borne hair, fabric fibers, and other debris. The chamfer will greatly facilitate the assembly of the connection.

If the pipe enters the socket with great effort, lubricate it with liquid soap or any other lubricant on water based. Do not use engine oil or other fuels for lubrication: they will cause the seals to crack.

With hidden laying (in boxes and false walls), it is better to assemble the joints on silicone sealant. Even if the seals lose their elasticity, it will not allow the socket to leak.

Ventilation

It is really necessary. Instead of lengthy discussions about the movement of sewer gases in pipes, I will simply share my own experience.

During the construction of the second floor, I brought the sewer to the septic tank without installation, based on the fact that with a system height of only 4 meters, there will be no significant draft in it. In addition, all connections of plumbing fixtures with sockets were carefully sealed.

It was not there: after some time, a characteristic sewer smell appeared in the attic toilet. As it turned out, the following happened:

1. When flushing in the toilet, the flow of water rushed down the riser, at some point blocking the entire lumen of the pipe;
2. The rarefaction arising at the same time in the upper part of the riser sucked water out of the bath siphon, disrupting the operation of the water seal;
3. The lack of water in the siphon opened the way for the aromas of the septic tank to the bathroom.

The problem was quite predictably solved by installing a vent pipe at the top of the sewer.

Heating

Often practiced in warm climates open laying sewer areas. So, in the Crimea, with its average January temperature of + 3C, you can often find sewer pipes laid between the house and the well along the surface of the soil. The laying of pipes providing runoff from the second floor is also practiced along the facade.

Having looked at other people's buildings, I also laid a section of the internal sewerage to the septic tank along the facade: I didn’t want to spoil the ceiling and the repaired first floor with a riser.

Alas, in warm climate zone there are frosts. In the very first winter, the operation of the in-house sewerage system showed that it was impossible to do without insulation at all: already at -10C, the drains began to freeze.

The problem was solved by installing a self-regulating. It is a conductive matrix that increases resistance when heated and decreases when cooled. As a result, the lower the temperature, the greater the heat transfer, the more the pipe on which the cable is fixed heats up.

Installation was done like this:

• The cable is glued to the bottom of the pipe with aluminum tape. reflecting infrared radiation, it noticeably reduces untargeted heat losses;
• Since aluminum tape is extremely fragile, the cable had to be additionally fixed with polyethylene ties.

Several turns of cable are also used to heat the open septic tank.
The main requirement for laying is that the termination and heat shrink between the cable and the cold end must be left outside the drain tank.
They are aggressive and destroy the heat shrink tube in a year or two of operation, but the vinyl insulation of the cable perfectly tolerates prolonged contact with a chemically active environment.

Conclusion

As you can see, sewer installation is not extremely difficult. You can learn more about it by watching the video in this article. Please share your own experience in the comments. Good luck, comrades!

July 14, 2016

If you want to express gratitude, add a clarification or objection, ask the author something - add a comment or say thanks!

To make life in the country comfortable, it is necessary to carry out the main communications - plumbing and sewerage. In suburban areas, there is often no centralized sewerage network, so each owner of the house solves the problem on his own. Periodic use of the dwelling does not require the installation of expensive and complex equipment, it is enough to arrange a septic tank.

Often in summer cottages, the function of collecting wastewater is performed by a cesspool. If the house is not equipped with a plumbing system, this option is fully justified, but with the installation of plumbing fixtures and a large volume of drained water, it is not enough. In this article we will talk about how to make a sewer in the country with your own hands. different ways(from concrete rings, barrels, without pumping out), as well as demonstrate diagrams, drawings, photo and video instructions.

Sewerage should be built according to the developed project, including schemes for external and internal piping.

Two-chamber septic tank

The most convenient is the installation of a collector of two chambers connected by an overflow pipe. Let's find out how to arrange it yourself.

1. Work begins with digging a pit in a place chosen taking into account all sanitary requirements. The volume of the structure depends on the number of people living in the country. You can dig a pit manually or with an excavator.
2. At the bottom of the pit, a sand cushion up to 15 cm high is formed. The depth of the pit is 3 meters.
3. It is necessary to install formwork from boards or chipboard. The design must be reliable. Next, a reinforcing belt is formed from metal rods tied with steel wire.
4. It is necessary to make two holes in the formwork and insert pipe trimmings. These will be places for the entrance of the sewer line and the overflow pipe between the sections.
5. The formwork is poured with concrete, which is distributed throughout the entire volume with the help of a vibrating tool. The design of the septic tank must be monolithic, so it is advisable to fill the entire formwork at a time.
6. In the first compartment, the bottom is poured with concrete, a sealed section is formed, it will serve as a sump. Here, the wastewater will be divided into solid coarse fractions that sink to the bottom, and clarified water that overflows into the adjacent section. For better decomposition of solid residues, aerobic bacteria can be purchased.
7. The second compartment is made without a bottom, it can be made not only from monolithic walls, but also using concrete rings with a diameter of 1–1.5 meters, stacked on top of each other. The bottom of the well is covered with a thick layer of sedimentary rock (crushed stone, pebbles, gravel) to filter wastewater.
8. An overflow pipe is laid between the two sections. It is installed at an angle of 30 mm on running meter. In height, the pipe is located in the upper third of the wells. The number of sections is not necessarily limited to two; a four-section septic tank can be made to provide better cleaning.
9. The overlap of the septic tank is made independently, using formwork and concrete, or ready-made reinforced concrete slabs are used. Be sure to arrange a hatch that allows you to control the filling of sections and exhaust. The pit is filled with sand and selected soil. The sump of such a system will be cleaned every 2-3 years.

Due to the ease of installation, many summer residents prefer to make a septic tank from concrete rings.

If the soil in the area is clayey or groundwater is very close to the surface, it will not work to arrange a septic tank of this design. You can stop at a sealed container of sufficient volume, securely installed and secured to concrete slab in the pit.

Another option is a biological treatment plant. Local stations are convenient and efficient, they are indispensable for suburban buildings large area. Specialists are engaged in the installation and launch of the device, the cost of such a station is acceptable for a narrow circle of summer residents.

External line laying

From the exit of the sewer pipe from the house to the septic tank, it is necessary to lay a pipeline. The main line must be sloped to ensure the flow of polluted water. The larger the diameter of the pipes you use, the smaller the angle of inclination required for their operation, on average it is 2 degrees. The depth of the trench for laying pipes should be greater than the amount of winter freezing of the soil. If the trench is shallow, provide thermal insulation for the line.

The average depth for laying sewers is 1 meter, in warm regions it is enough to go down by 70 cm, and in cold regions you will need to dig a pit up to 1.5 meters. The bottom of the dug hole is covered with a dense cushion of compacted sand. This procedure will protect the pipes from soil displacement.

The best option would be to lay a direct pipeline to the collector. If necessary, make a turn, this place is equipped with a manhole. For the highway, you can use plastic and cast iron pipes with a diameter of 110 mm, their connection must be tight. After installation, the pipeline is covered with sand, and then with soil.

The design, which does not require regular pumping of sewage, consists of several tanks operating simultaneously. It can be two / three-chamber septic tanks. The first tank is used as a sump. It is the largest in size. In two-chamber septic tanks, the sump occupies ¾ of the structure, and in three-chamber ½. Here, a preliminary treatment of wastewater takes place: heavy fractions settle, and light fractions are poured into the next compartment as the first one is filled. In the last part of the septic tank, the final post-treatment of wastewater takes place. The water is then directed to the filtration fields/drainage well.

The first 2 compartments must be sealed. The last chamber has holes in the walls/bottom. Thus, purified water seeps into the ground, which helps to avoid the systematic pumping of waste without causing irreparable damage to the soil.

It is worth considering that in wastewater, in addition to organic matter, there are also insoluble impurities. In view of this, such a design will also have to be periodically pumped out in order to get rid of the sediment that accumulates in the sump. This can be done with a fecal / drainage pump. The frequency of maintenance of a septic tank depends entirely on the size / volume / composition of wastewater.

For the independent construction of such a septic tank, you need to correctly calculate its volume. It depends on the water consumption of your household. The norm of water consumption per person is 200 liters per day. So, multiplying this amount by the number of households, you get daily allowance water consumption in the home. Add another 20% to the resulting figure.

18 m 3. In this case, you need a septic tank that has a depth and length of 3 m each, and a width of 2 m. Multiplying all sides, you get 18 m 3. Minimum distance from the bottom of the septic tank to drain pipe- 0.8 m.

The advantage of the treatment system is that the sludge is processed by anaerobic bacteria, as a result of which it settles to the bottom in a much smaller volume. Gradually, this sediment thickens and rises. When the sludge reaches the overflow level, the septic tank must be immediately cleaned. The septic tank needs to be cleaned infrequently. This is due to the fact that the volume of sludge for 6 months will be from 60 to 90 liters.

Volatile septic tanks have built-in pumping units. Their non-volatile analogues should be cleaned manually or using sewage equipment.

However, not so long ago, biological preparations with special enzymes appeared, processing sludge into acid, and then into methane and carbon dioxide. To remove these gases, you just need to install ventilation in the septic tank. Thus, your septic tank will become an absolutely waste-free, safe and energy-independent treatment plant.

Bacteria need to be "fed" with oxygen for greater efficiency of their work. Tanks for a septic tank can be bought or made independently.

Before installing the finished structure of the septic tank, it is necessary to determine a suitable place for this. The minimum distance between the septic tank and the house is 5 m. The sewer pipes leaving the house should go directly to the septic tank. Turning the pipeline is best avoided, because it is in such places that blockages form.

The septic tank should not be installed near trees, as their roots can damage the integrity of the body. The depth of the septic tank and sewer pipes directly depends on the level of soil freezing.

If groundwater is close to the surface, then reinforce the bottom of the pit with a concrete slab / screed. The size of the pit will depend on the size of the septic tank. If you have to install a compact structure, then it is easier to dig a pit manually in order to save money.

The pit should be slightly wider than the septic tank body. The gaps between the walls and the ground should be at least 20 cm, and preferably more. If there is no need to strengthen the bottom, then you should still lay a sand cushion 15 cm thick (meaning the thickness of compacted sand).

The top of the septic tank should rise above the ground. Otherwise, melt water in the spring will flood the equipment of the device.

After installing the base of the pit, lower the septic tank into it. This can be done with the help of cables placed in the stiffeners of the septic tank. In this case, you can not do without an assistant. Next, connect the device to communications, after digging trenches for pipes, laying a sand cushion and installing pipes. They should be laid under a slight slope - 1-2 cm per linear meter. Pipe laying is carried out to a depth of approximately 70–80 cm.

The septic tank should be installed strictly according to the level. It will work better in a horizontal position.

To connect the sewer pipe to the septic tank, a hole of the appropriate diameter should be made in it. This is done according to the instructions for the cleaning system. After that, you need to weld the pipe to the hole. To solve this problem, you will need a polypropylene cord and a building hair dryer. When the pipe has cooled down, it will be possible to insert a sewer pipe into it.

If you are connecting a volatile septic tank, then after these steps you need to connect electric cable. It is carried out from the shield to a separate machine. It must be laid in a special corrugated pipe and placed in the same trench as the sewer pipe. The septic tank has special holes with stamps. Connect a cable to them.

If the level of soil freezing in your area is large enough, then insulate the septic tank. Insulation can be any heat-insulating material that can be used for laying in the ground.

After completing the connection of electricity and pipes, the septic tank should be covered with soil. This is done in layers of 15–20 cm. To equalize the pressure in the process of backfilling the soil, water must be poured into the septic tank. In this case, the water level should be slightly higher than the backfill level of the pit. So, gradually the entire septic tank will be underground.

If you are not satisfied with the finished plastic autonomous system for wastewater treatment, due to its size or cost, then you can make a septic tank from several compartments yourself. An excellent inexpensive material for the implementation of the plan is concrete rings. You can do all the work yourself.

Among the advantages of a septic tank from reinforced concrete rings, we note the following:

• Affordable price.
• Unpretentiousness during operation.
• The ability to perform work without the help of specialists.

Of the shortcomings, the following deserve attention:

1. The presence of an unpleasant odor. It is impossible to make the structure absolutely airtight, and therefore the formation of an unpleasant odor near the septic tank cannot be avoided.
2. The need to clean the chambers from solid waste using sewage equipment.

It is possible to reduce the frequency of the need to pump out a septic tank if bioactivators are used. They reduce the amount of solid fractions due to the fact that they accelerate the process of their decomposition.

If the installation of the rings is illiterate, then the septic tank will be leaky, which will increase the risk of untreated sewage penetrating into the ground. But, with proper installation, the septic tank will be airtight, so this drawback of the system is rightfully called conditional.

The scheme for the construction of a septic tank, as a rule, includes 1-2 chambers designed for settling and treating wastewater and a filtration field / filter well.

If few people live in your house and a minimum of plumbing devices are connected to the sewer, then you can easily get by with a septic tank, consisting of one sump and a filter well. And vice versa, if you have many households and many devices are connected to the sewer, then it is better to make a septic tank from two chambers and a filtration well.

How to calculate the required volume for a septic tank has already been described above. According to building codes, the septic tank chamber must accommodate a three-day volume of wastewater. The volume of the reinforced concrete ring is 0.62 m3, which means that in order to build a septic tank for 5 people, you will need a sump of five rings. Where did this amount come from? For 5 people, you need a septic tank with a volume of 3 m 3. This figure must be divided by the volume of the ring, equal to 0.62 m 3. You will get a value of 4.83. It needs to be rounded up, which means that in order to equip a septic tank in this particular case, you will need 5 rings.

The pit must be of such a size that it can accommodate the septic tank chambers and the filter well. These works, of course, can be done manually, but it is long and very difficult, so it is more cost-effective to order digging a pit from a company with earthmoving equipment.

The bottom of the pit at the installation site of the sedimentation chambers must be concreted in order to avoid the possibility of penetration of untreated effluents into the ground. Before the beginning concrete work, it is necessary to drain part of the bottom of the pit for the installation of sedimentation tanks, laying a sand cushion on it, with a layer of 30–50 cm.

If you do not want to concrete the bottom, then you can purchase reinforced concrete rings with a blank bottom. They will need to be installed first in a vertical row.

The place for the filter well also requires the preparation of the base. Under it, you need to make a pillow of sand, crushed stone and gravel with a thickness of at least 50 cm.

To install the rings, you will have to order the services of lifting equipment. It is very difficult to perform these tasks manually. You can, of course, install the rings by digging under the bottom ring. But this method is laborious. Yes, and the bottom will have to be filled after the installation of the last ring, which will entail a number of inconveniences. In view of this, it is better not to save on ordering lifting equipment.

Typically, the rings are fastened together with a solution, but for greater structural reliability, they can be fastened with metal plates or staples. In this case, your septic tank will not suffer due to ground movement.

Now it's time to organize an overflow, and for this you need to bring pipes to the rings. It is better that they work on the principle of a water seal, that is, they must be installed with a bend.

To seal the joints, you need to use a solution with an aqua barrier. From the outside, the tanks must be treated with coating or built-up waterproofing.

Another option is to purchase plastic cylinders installed inside the well. In this case, the likelihood of dirty water ingress will be minimized.

Installation of ceilings / backfill

Finished wells need to be covered special plates made of concrete, in which holes are provided for the installation of sewer manholes. Ideally, the backfill of the excavation should be carried out with soil with a large percentage it contains sand. But if it is impossible to realize this, the pit can be covered with soil removed from it before.

Now the septic tank can be put into operation.

The wastewater treatment system from barrels, as well as a similar design made of concrete goods, can be two- or three-chamber. Wastewater will flow into it by gravity, so it must be installed below the sewer pipes. The principle of operation of this device is similar to the construction of reinforced concrete rings.

For arrangement autonomous sewerage according to the principle of the cleaning system, any containers can be used. These can be old metal/plastic barrels. The main thing is that they are airtight.

If you decide to make a septic tank from metal barrels, then they should be pre-treated with an anti-corrosion agent.

Plastic containers have several advantages over their metal counterparts:

1. A wide range of plastic containers that can be used to equip a septic tank.
2. Barrels are highly resistant to the aggressive effects of effluents. Therefore, they last longer than their metal counterparts.
3. The light weight of the containers simplifies their installation at the place of permanent deployment.
4. Plastic does not need to be further processed, unlike metal.
5. The high tightness of the barrels eliminates the possibility of penetration dirty waters into the ground.

Plastic barrels must be securely fixed when installed in the ground, because due to spring floods or winter frosts, they can be squeezed out of the ground. In view of this, plastic barrels are attached with cables to concrete base(it must first be poured or a reinforced concrete slab installed). In order not to crush plastic barrels, backfilling should be carried out very carefully.

For seasonal use, sewage from metal barrels is also suitable, but for stationary use this is not an option.

The popularity of metal containers for arranging sewerage is associated with their compactness and ease of installation. As a cover, you can use a wooden blank of the appropriate size or the one provided by the manufacturer. To install a metal septic tank, you need to dig an appropriate pit, which also needs to be concreted - walls and bottom.

Metal containers do not have a long service life even after they have been treated with anti-corrosion compounds. Therefore, their installation as a septic tank may be unprofitable. Buying stainless steel containers is not an option, as these products are very expensive.

Maybe you decide that in this case you can buy barrels with thin walls. However, this is also not the best solution, since during operation such a septic tank can be pushed out. Yes, and such barrels have a limited capacity - up to 250 liters, which is not suitable for a large family.

For mounting reliable system for wastewater treatment, it is better to use factory polymer barrels.

To make a septic tank from 220 l barrels, you will need the following materials:

• geotextile - 80 m 2;
• sewerage pipe Ø110 m, length 5 m;
• crushed stone fraction 1.8–3.5 cm, approximately 9 m 3;
• corner for sewerage at an angle of 45 and 90º - 4 pcs.;
• plastic barrel with a volume of 220 l - 2 pcs.;
• coupling, flange - 2 pcs.;
• wooden peg - 10 pcs.;
• Y-shaped sewer tee - 4 pcs.;
• building level;
• drainage perforated pipe in the filter 5 m - 2 pcs.;
• epoxy two-component sealant - 1 pc.;
• glue for PVC - 1 pc.;
• water tape - 1 pc.

Of the tools you will need:

• Shovel.
• Electric jigsaw.
• Rake.

For cottage/small country house if used economically, standard plastic barrels will do. Install such cleaning system not difficult. If you do not drain black drains into the sewer, then the septic tank will be unpretentious in maintenance. If the house has a toilet, then the sewer will have to be cleaned regularly, calling for sewage equipment.

For private houses with permanent residence, barrels will not be enough. For sewage, it is better to purchase plastic cubes / tanks / tanks. The process of their installation in the ground does not differ from the installation of barrels.

The distance of the septic tank from the house should not exceed 15 m. Too long distance complicate the process of connecting the sewer to the house:

• there is a need for a large deepening of the pipeline;
• on the way to the septic tank, you will need to install a revision well.

The sewerage system from metal barrels does not require large financial investments and complex installation work. To begin with, as in previous cases, you need to prepare a pit, and then install 2 barrels, each of which has a volume of at least 200 liters. Then pipes are installed for overflowing liquid from one barrel to another and a transition to the filtration fields / drainage well.

Each subsequent container must be located below the previous one in level.

The joints must be sealed, and the barrels must be insulated with foam. After that, the pit with a septic tank is filled up. Since, as mentioned above, metal barrels are short-lived, you need to be prepared for the fact that after 3-4 years they will need to be replaced.

Pipe laying

Scheme

In order to understand how to make sewerage in a private house efficient and easy to use, it is necessary to understand the classification of systems. The features of their design and maintenance, the nuances of installation and the cost of equipment largely determine the choice. Great importance has the accuracy of work at all stages.

Types of sewer systems

Sewer systems can be classified according to various parameters, primarily by:

• the method of transporting wastewater through communications,
• type of waste disposal.

Depending on where the effluents are directed, sewers are distinguished:

• schemes with insertion into centralized systems,
• Autonomous systems with individual drives or utilizers.

Depending on the method of transporting wastewater, systems are distinguished:

• gravity sewers (movement through pipelines is carried out due to their inclined position),
• pressure sewers (transportation of wastewater using pumping equipment),
• combined sewers, combining the features of pressure and gravity systems.

The cheapest way to install a sewerage system in which wastewater moves by gravity, however, in some cases, the layout of the site is such that the sewage horizon is higher than the place where the house is located. It is impossible to lay pipes with the required slope in such a situation, just as in the presence of stony soil, which does not allow significant deepening of the pipeline.

In such cases, fecal or drainage pumps are used, however, it is impractical to ensure the movement of wastewater using pumping equipment throughout the sewer system in a private house. Most often, the optimal solution is a combination of pressure and gravity sections in one sewerage system.

Types of utilizers

Before you start installing and laying a sewer with your own hands in a private house, they design the system and, first of all, choose the method of disposal.

All possible options in this respect can be divided into two types:

• (sump tanks),
• treatment facilities (depending on the type of device, cleaning can be carried out completely or partially, in the second case, periodic pumping of the remaining waste will be required).

Note: There is another sewerage option - in which part of the drain is drained into the soil. But such a design can only be used with a small amount of wastewater, less than 1 cubic meter per day, and is most often arranged in summer cottages or country houses with periodic residence and low groundwater levels.

As treatment plant for a private house, various designs can be chosen.

• Septic tanks cost less and perform partial wastewater treatment. They may require additional ground treatment (reduction of the content of impurities in water during its drainage) and pumping out the silt component after partial decomposition of impurities and settling of wastewater.
• Biotreatment stations- These are expensive and rather large structures with complex technical equipment and the need to connect to the power supply. After a cleaning cycle, sewage is converted into safe water suitable for watering plants (up to 98% removal of impurities) and fertile sludge (it can be used as a fertilizer).

Important: The volume of the sewage treatment plant is calculated by the formula: the number of residents is multiplied by 200 liters and all this is multiplied by 3.

The interior of the sewer system

Do-it-yourself installation of a local sewerage system in a private house involves not only the selection and construction (installation) of a utilizer and the communications leading to it, but also an internal wiring device with the installation of the necessary equipment.

The main elements of the internal part of the sewerage system are:

• plumbing equipment,
• household water-consuming units (including dishwashers and washing machines),
• pipes (in most cases, products of 32-50 mm are used, and for the toilet - 110 mm).

Reception, collection and transportation of wastewater from household appliances and plumbing is carried out using pipes. They can be installed in a variety of ways.

• With open installation, communications are fixed to floors, walls and ceilings with the help of.
• When laying pipes in a closed way pipes are mounted inside the walls, as well as in ceilings under the floor.

The installation method is selected depending on the structure of the building, the requirements of the connected units (in some cases, a hidden supply is not allowed), as well as taking into account aesthetic considerations and ease of maintenance.

To ensure the free flow of the contents of the sewer and prevent blockages, it is necessary to install pipes with a certain slope. This value depends on the diameter of the pipes.

• For 50 mm diameter optimal slope is 3.0 cm per meter of line.
• For a diameter of 110 mm, these values ​​​​are 2.0 cm, respectively.
• For 125 mm - 1.5 cm.

There are certain rules that must be observed when installing internal sewage.

• When connecting to risers of plumbing equipment, the outlet of the unit must always be located above the tie-in of the outlet into the riser.
• Pipelines no longer than 10 meters are laid in the ceiling, otherwise it will be difficult to detect and eliminate defects (leaks, blockages).
• Connection of branches with risers is carried out using fittings (crosses or tees).
• Connection of bends to straight sections of pipelines is always carried out at oblique angles, turns at right angles are performed with two fittings of 45 °, which minimizes the possibility of blockages.

Used vertically as a stand installed pipe, whose diameter is more than 110 mm (should not be less than the largest outlet, which is usually a 110 mm outlet from the toilet). The riser is necessarily equipped with an inspection hatch, which is located at a height of 1 m from the floor level. The distance from the toilet to the riser is a maximum of 1 meter.

The connection of the internal part with external communications is carried out using the release, which is encased in a protective sleeve and a pipe section passing through the foundation, the diameter of which corresponds to the diameter of the riser.

The diameter of the sleeve should be about 150 mm, and its edges should extend beyond the foundation on both sides by 100-150 mm

Sewer ventilation system

Ventilation internal system the sewerage system ensures the removal of the resulting gases and the flow of air to fill the system. With intensive draining (high volume or flow rate), zones are formed in the pipelines reduced pressure. In the presence of effective ventilation, such a space is quickly filled with air, the pressure balance is restored. Otherwise, the system will “suck in” air through the siphons of nearby plumbing. As a result, the operation of the system will be accompanied by loud sounds and the appearance unpleasant odors in room.

Ventilation of the internal sewerage is carried out with a fan pipe, which structurally represents a continuation of the riser (with a large area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe house and separately, at different ends, installed plumbing, it is advisable to install several risers and, accordingly, several fan pipes).

It is displayed on the roof through a heated inner space so that its edge is located above the pipes of heating appliances and the output of the general ventilation system of the house.

The fan (ventilation) pipe is a continuation of the sewer riser and goes to the roof

For those who are interested in how to properly make a sewer in a private house with their own hands, it is useful to know that the presence of a fan pipe for one-story buildings is not necessary according to the established Rules, however, such an addition significantly increases the efficiency and ease of use of the system.

External communications

For the external part of the sewer system, it is important to choose the right pipes.

Do-it-yourself sewerage construction in a private house is usually carried out using pvc pipes, conventional or corrugated products. With a small weight, they are strong enough and able to withstand temperature changes. In addition, polymer materials are absolutely immune to corrosion.

The depth of trenches for laying external sewer pipes should be greater than the level of soil freezing. If it is impossible to fulfill this condition, you should think about how to make sewer insulation in a private house with your own hands. Usually used for this purpose thermal insulation materials, for example, Energoflex or extruded polystyrene foam. A more expensive option is to lay a heating electric cable next to the pipeline.

As in the case of internal communications, the efficiency and reliability of the operation of the outer part of the sewer depends on providing the required slope towards the storage tank or utilizer. If the diameter of the tubes is 110 mm, optimal angle the slope will be 2 cm for each meter of the length of communications.

When choosing a place for a treatment plant on the site, you must adhere to certain rules for the remoteness of the sewer from various objects

Unpleasant odor and its elimination

The appearance of a sewer smell in the room indicates a malfunction of the system.

In order to protect your home from such phenomena, it is not enough to know how to make a sewer in a country house, you need to provide high-quality system maintenance, be able to identify and eliminate defects in a timely manner.

The appearance of the smell of sewage in the house is most often due to an increase in pressure in sewer communications. Under its action, gases are forced out into the space of rooms. As a remedy, it is recommended to carry out a set of measures:

• install siphons with water traps on appliances,
• clean the pipes (plugs blocking the lumen are one of the most common causes of malfunctions, and if they are not completely blocked, such a plug may not give out its presence except for the smell).

The smell can also appear as a result of a violation of the tightness of the sewerage system. Check all connections carefully and eliminate even small leaks.