Draining water with your own hands. How to make a drain hole on your site

When you have built a house or a cottage for yourself, you have begun to equip it, then you will definitely need to drain drains from the roof. This problem will make itself felt immediately after the first rain, as all the water from the roof will pour onto the steps, the foundation and even the walls, which is not good at all. Your task is to build a system for the outflow of water from the roof, that is, a drain. There are two options: buy a ready-made design or design it yourself. The first method is much cheaper and will save money, however, some efforts will have to be made. It is necessary to choose what material the future drain will be made of, what shape it will be, and where all the water should drain. You can figure out all these nuances by reading our article. Moreover, we will consider why a drain is needed, in particular, what functions it performs, what are the requirements for these elements, what it consists of and, directly, how to make a drain from the roof with your own hands. Let's find out everything in detail.

And yet why

Drainage is an important part of the design of the whole house. Its presence is very important for several reasons. You can probably see a house in which there is no drainage system on the roof only at the construction stage, since this system is usually done first. And all because it performs important functions:

1. protective function. Thanks to the drain, precipitation does not fall on the walls, foundation, steps and blind area. This is the main purpose of the drain. When it is absent, the basement of the house will simply collapse within 5-10 years. Water will fall on the foundation, leaving the ground, as a result of which the foundation will erode. Moreover, traces of water, smudges and stains can form on the walls, which will spoil the aesthetic appearance of the entire building. Yes, and the steps of the porch will collapse over time.
2. Collecting rainwater from the roof. This is especially important for owners of a large garden or garden, because rainwater is very good for watering plants. If the drain pipe is taken to a special container, a barrel or a large tank, then after a good rain you will have an additional source of water. This is good not only for the soil, but also for your wallet. The presence of such technical water will not hurt anyone.
3. Decor element for your home. If you make a beautiful ebb with your own hands, you can complement the overall picture of the house, giving it a complete look.

All this makes the drain system an important component of the entire building. Without it, of course, you can do in some cases, but this is fraught with undesirable consequences.

It is worth noting that to make a drain on quick hand it is also impossible for it to function correctly and for a long time, some requirements must be observed:

• The product must have high strength, resistance to various mechanical deformations and high loads. It must withstand strong gusts of wind, hail, the weight of snow in winter, etc.;
• Durability. The material must be resistant to various external factors, corrosion from water, withstand temperature extremes and precipitation.
• Last but not least, good appearance, because no one wants one detail to spoil the entire facade.

It is important to comply with all these requirements, then your efforts will not be in vain. But what material can a drain be made of, and which one will be better? Let's find out.

Materials for manufacturing

The water drainage system is made from various materials, which differ in their characteristics and price. There are two main materials for the manufacture of a drain:

1. Metal.
2. Polymers.

These are the most common materials from which you yourself can make water drainage. If we talk about metal, then it is more expensive than plastic due to its strength. In the manufacture of the drain, it is additionally coated with an anti-corrosion agent and a decorative coating, because, as you know, the disadvantage of metal is the tendency to corrosion. In addition, during operation, a metal drain from time to time must be additionally treated with the same means so that it does not rust from damage, dents and scratches that may occur during operation.

If you want to make a metal structure, it is better to choose these:

• Cink Steel;
• copper;
• aluminum.

To make a drain from galvanized steel, you need to purchase it in sheets, the thickness of which reaches 1 mm. For additional protection of the material against corrosion, a material coated with polymers is chosen: polyester, plastisol or pural.

The aluminum construction is quite light, which is its advantage. The thickness of the sheet can be from 0.8 mm to 1 mm. A special varnish is used to protect the material. It not only protects aluminum, but also improves its appearance. Such structures serve for a long time, and if aluminum does not come into contact with other metals, rust will not form on it.

The advantage of copper products is that they do not need to be further processed. Such an outflow is considered more durable, beautiful and of high quality, it is ideal for making a water drainage system if your roof is not made of another metal. Copper, like aluminum, should not come into contact with other metals. The only problem - high price on the material.

Note! During operation, copper is covered with a greenish coating - patina.

Another thing is plastic elements. They do not need additional processing, are more durable and do not corrode. Increased strength, durability, quietness and UV resistance - all these features have made plastisol and polyester the main materials that are ideal for the manufacture of ebb. Gutters made of plastic have another advantage - polymers can be different colors, so you can choose one that matches the color scheme for your home.

Note! It is worth noting that the price of plastic is much lower than that of metal, so polymer plums will cost you less.

If we talk about the disadvantages of the material, then there is one significant one: with low temperatures the plastic becomes brittle. And, despite various additives during production, in severe frosts, plastic can crack, which will break the tightness of the entire system. True, if you live in a region with temperate climate, this shortcoming will not bother you.

Considering all of the above, you can decide which material to choose for the manufacture of water drainage from the roof of the house. Before proceeding with the manufacture of the ebb, let's find out what elements it consists of and how it works.

Components of the water drainage system

First you need to determine what exactly to produce, because the drainage system consists of various elements:

1. Gutter. One of the main elements of the whole structure. It serves to collect water from the roof slopes. Can be round or square, mounted horizontally from the bottom of the roof overhang. The size of the gutter depends on the area of ​​​​the slope that it will serve.
2. Pipe. A vertical part of the structure that allows you to divert water to the place you need, whether it be a drainage system or a rainwater collection tank. Pipes are attached to the wall of the building.
3. Stormwater or funnel. An element that connects the gutter to the pipe.
4. Turns and angles. Structural elements, which allow you to bypass the house, various protruding elements, etc. Thanks to them, it is also possible to mount the pipe at various distances from the wall of the house.
5. Stubs. In those places where a funnel and a pipe are not provided, a plug is installed.
6. Gutter connection. When the wall has great length, gutters are interconnected by special connecting elements.
7. Fasteners for pipes and gutters, allowing you to tightly fix these elements to the wall.
8. Leaf trap. Sometimes a trap is mounted in the system that looks like a lattice. Thanks to her, the leaves do not penetrate the system and do not clog it. You just have to periodically remove the leaves from the trap.

As they say, it is better to see once than hear a hundred times, so below is a diagram in which you can clearly see all the components of the system.

How to find out how much material is needed for a job

Before we get started, there is one more issue that needs to be addressed. You should decide how much material to buy for the construction of the drain, so that you do not have to spend money on shipping again. Yes, and excess material can lie dead weight for a long time, until you decide to use it in the construction of some outbuilding.

So, how to correctly calculate the amount of material needed to create a drain. In fact, everything is not as difficult as it seems. To work, you need to arm yourself with a tape measure larger than 5 m, a pencil or pen, as well as a notepad for notes. It all starts with the fact that with the help of a tape measure, the total footage of all the gutters around the perimeter is calculated. The resulting number will tell you how many meters of material are needed for the gutters. Write down all the data so as not to forget anything. And, of course, do not take the material to the nearest centimeter, a small margin is required.

Note! The cross section of the gutters can be of two types: round and square. Which type to choose depends on your own preferences. Only here it is worth noting that it is easier to care for round products, as they are easy to clean. The square shape does not allow you to thoroughly clean the dirt in the corners.

Now you need to figure out how many funnels will go to the system. Make it even easier. Usually one funnel is installed on the gutter every 10 m. If the house is small, then funnels are often placed simply on its corners. If the length of one of the walls of your home exceeds 10 m, professionals recommend making several drain points. The number of funnels should also be recorded.

You do not even need to calculate how many pipes are required, since this number will be equal to the number of funnels. All that needs to be done is to measure the distance from the roof to the ground or the place where you want to drain water to find out the required length of the pipe itself.

Turns and knees are calculated strictly individually according to the design features of the facade of the house. It all depends on the number of corners, obstacles and turns to go around. Consider the desired distance of the pipes from the walls.

Upon completion of all calculations, you need to find out the required number of fasteners: brackets and clamps. The brackets will fix the outlet gutters in increments of 60-80 cm. It is necessary to divide the total length of the gutters by the distance between the brackets. This way you will know exactly how many pieces you need. As for the clamps with which the pipes will be attached to the walls, it is definitely difficult to say something. Basically, 2-3 clamps are enough for one pipe, it depends on the height of the wall. Look at the number of pipes in your drainage system and determine the number of clamps.

That's all, the calculation is over. This was the easiest stage in the construction of the drain, it will be much more difficult to mount it. Now all you have to do is take a look at your notes and take them to the store to buy all the stuff you need. When everything is ready, you can get to work.

How to make a gutter from the roof yourself

Consider how to make your own drain from plastic pipes, since it is the simplest and effective option. As practice has shown, the best materials for this case, plastic sewer and ventilation pipes.

To work, you will need the following tools:

1. Bulgarian.
2. Screwdriver or screwdriver.
3. Roulette.
4. Cord or thread.
5. Self-tapping screws.
6. Sandpaper.
7. Level and plumb.
8. Marker.
9. Silicone sealant.
10. Scaffolding or stairs.

And as materials you need to purchase:

• Plastic pipes with a diameter of 80, 90 or 110 mm, from which the gutters will be made. They are cut in half.
• Plastic pipes with a diameter of 50 mm, which will act as vertical drain pipes.
• Plastic fittings, which will be funnels, connecting the gutter and the vertical pipe.
• Corner outlets and elbows that allow the gutters to wrap around corners of the building, as well as redirect vertical drain pipes to the desired location.
• Plastic plugs for pipes, which will also have to be cut in half.
• Plastic brackets and metal clamps.

First of all, you need to decide on the cross section of the pipes, which depends on the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe roof itself. There is a special calculation formula, by which you can find the required diameter. If the area of ​​​​the roof slope is 50 m 2 or less, then it is better to use pipes with a diameter of 80 mm. When the area of ​​​​the roof slope is 125 m 2 or less, then pipes of 90 mm are selected. And when the area of ​​​​the roof slope is more than 125 m 2, a pipe with a diameter of 110 mm is required.

Note! You will also need funnels, sockets and adapters, but their diameter is determined based on the diameter of the pipe that departs from the gutter.

Now let's make gutters - this is the hardest work that requires precision and correct calculation. Pipes will be used as gutters, which must be dissolved in half in length. It will be easy to cut them, but to do it evenly is difficult. From one pipe you will get two identical gutters. Here's what you need to do:

1. Take a pipe of the desired diameter and place it on the boards. For ease of use, fix the pipe with a self-tapping screw to the board.
2. At the very top, on the front side of the pipe, stepping back a few centimeters, screw a self-tapping screw into it exactly in the middle. Do the same on the other side. It is not necessary to tighten the screws to the end.
3. Stretch a thread between them. Make sure everything is even.
4. Now mark the cut line on the pipe with a marker.
5. Remove the thread and, focusing on the markup, start sawing the pipe with a grinder. For safety reasons, wear protective goggles. Make sure to cut the pipe evenly, as the overall appearance of the gutters will depend on this.
6. It remains to do exactly the same on the opposite side of the pipe. Only now the pipe is fixed to the board in two places, since by sawing the pipe, you have made two separate parts of it.
7. Depending on the number of gutters required, cut all the pipes intended for this purpose.
8. Using sandpaper, clean the cuts on the pipes.

This is how you can independently make gutters, which will become the basis for the drainage system. Now you just need to connect the elements of the gutters together, taking into account the required length on each wall. Ready-made gutters will be connected to one another using self-tapping screws. Since these are sewer pipes, one end of which is wider, they can be connected very simply;

1. One gutter is inserted into the other with an overlap of 5-10 cm.
2. Using a screwdriver or self-tapping screw, fix them to each other in three places: on the sides and below.
3. The finished mount can be lubricated with silicone sealant to prevent water from leaking.
4. To make corner gutters, you need to take a knee, and using the method you already know, cut it in half.
5. At this stage, in the places where the vertical pipes will be located, it is already necessary to insert a plastic fitting and fix it with self-tapping screws. Again, you need to cover the junction with sealant.

Note! When connecting the elements to each other, do not screw the screws too tight so that the joints are slightly mobile. Thanks to this, the structure will walk under the influence of wind and various temperatures without collapsing.

We can say that your roof drainage system is ready, it remains only to put everything together and install it in the intended place.

All steps are shown in detail in the video:

Rules for installing a drainage system

Before installing your homemade design, it is important to familiarize yourself with some rules for installing water drainage elements. They concern not only plastic products, but also any others. Compliance with these rules is very important, because thanks to them the structure will fold for a long time and perform its functions correctly.

1. Installation of gutters around the perimeter of the house should be carried out on the frontal bar of the eaves, edge truss system directly on the roof. It is better to choose the first two methods. But, it is worth noting that it will be easy to implement them when the drainage system is installed at the stage of building a house, before it is laid roofing material. If you have already completely built your house or cottage, you can attach gutters to the edge of the roof.
2. When metal pipes are used as gutters, the brackets must be spaced at a distance of 80 cm to 1.5 m. If the gutters are made of plastic, the minimum distance is from 60–80 cm.
3. The gutters must be fixed so that they can easily catch the flow of running water. To do this, it is necessary to step back from the edge of the roof by a third of the pipe section, so that two-thirds of the gutter protrude, and water falls clearly into them.
4. To prevent water from accumulating in the gutters, they must be installed with a slope towards the funnel. For every 1 m of length, the slope should be 3–5 mm. This will be enough for the water to flow down into the funnel unhindered.
5. The distance of the upper edge of the gutter from the edge of the roof must not be less than 30 mm. If this requirement is not met, the entire structure may be torn off by a mass of snow or ice that comes off the roof.
6. It is important to ensure that the joints are well sealed so that water does not seep through them. To do this, you can use either a sealant or a pipe seal - a rubber band. It must be cut into two parts and put at the junction, where it is screwed with screws. It will also serve as a thermal gap, which is required for the structure to be movable.

These are all the rules that you need to follow when installing a water drainage system. Now it remains only to put everything into practice!

Installation of a system of sewer pipes

First you need to choose a starting point, that is, a place from where you will start work. Since the work will be carried out at height, take a ladder and check if it is reliable. You should be especially careful, because gravity can play a cruel joke. The installation process itself is not entirely complicated, following the instructions, it can be performed by any amateur builder. So, let's look at everything in stages:

That's all, now all the same needs to be done around the entire perimeter.

The roof drainage system is ready. Most importantly, you spent a minimum of money on its purchase, since you made it yourself.

You can make a homemade grid from building mesh to protect the system from foliage. It will take a number of meters of mesh, which must be cut into strips of such a width that, by rolling it into a cylinder, you can get a diameter slightly smaller than the diameter of the gutter pipe itself. Make such cylinders and place them in the gutters, fixing them securely there. This will protect the structure from all kinds of debris.

Advantages of a drain from sewer pipes

Why did we consider a structure that is made of plastic pipes? There are several reasons for this. One of them is that it is easiest to do it yourself. As you yourself noticed, there are no special difficulties during assembly, and the process itself is quite simple. The plastic system has several advantages:

1. Low price. If your funds are limited, this is perfect option For you. Since the material and everything additional elements they cost a little, and no one will have to pay for the work, you can afford it.
2. Large range of goods. In hardware stores you can buy pipes of different diameters and colors, fittings, elbows and fasteners.
3. Light weight. Thanks to this, you can easily transport pipes, and, more importantly, install them in their places. You can do all the work yourself, without the help of friends or relatives (this will allow you to do without the magician).
4. Plastic is easy to work with. Pipes are easy to cut with a grinder or a hand saw. Everything cuts like butter. Therefore, special efforts to cut the pipe in half will not have to be applied.
5. Sewer pipes do not corrode, are resistant to temperature fluctuations and ultraviolet rays.

If you have any additional questions, ask them below in the comments to the article. If you have already made such a drain system, share your experience: how long has it served you, were there any problems during installation or during operation, what can you advise inexperienced craftsmen.

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It is important to put a reliable overlap with a hole for pumping and ventilation. The overlap can be made double and the interior space filled with foam.

At the end of the work, it does not hurt to disguise the pit so that it does not spoil the appearance around the house. To do this, you can fill this place with earth and decorate with plantings.

Use for draining a septic tank

This method of organizing the drainage of water from the house is very suitable for country houses and cottages. The construction of a septic tank is similar to a sewage storage tank and is made from almost the same materials. However, its work uses a special principle of settling and post-treatment of water, which makes the accumulation of water in a septic tank more efficient than in a storage tank. In addition, the septic tank is more durable.

Unlike a simple drive, a septic tank consists of two, and sometimes more sections. The most common two-chamber version. Waste water is discharged into the first section. Heavy particles and silt are deposited on the bottom and are gradually absorbed by the soil. Lighter waste through a special pipe enters the second section and is absorbed into the ground.

Required tools and fixtures:

• the same as during the construction of the drive;
• if the area of ​​\u200b\u200bthe site and access roads to it allow, then you can use special equipment: an excavator and a crane.

How to install a septic tank?

For the construction of a septic tank, you can use the same rings as for the drive Wastewater, only two sections (chambers) should be provided that will be connected by a pipe. The construction technology is similar to the storage device technology. The only thing you need to dig a hole for the rings with a margin so that there are no difficulties when lowering the rings. In the first ring, waterproofing should be provided; for this, the bottom can be concreted. In the second ring, water-permeating conditions must be created. You can fill it with pebbles or gravel.

For overflow of sewage, the rings are connected by pipes. The gap between the rings and the walls of the pit can be filled with previously excavated soil.

The top is covered. To do this, you can use concrete slabs with holes for hatches. Hatches can be cast iron or plastic. Ventilation should be provided in the second ring. For ventilation, you can install a pipe that would be located m above ground level. As in the first case, it is better to mask the surface of the septic tank by covering it with earth and planting plants.

Here are two ways to make a drain in your country house and feel more comfortable using water without thinking where it drains.

Foreword

The issue of draining for a shower in the country is solved by many in “old-fashioned ways”.

Underground drain pits

Underground sewage collection facilities are the most common. Depending on the number of drains, the design of the drain pit may or may not have a sealed bottom. Sanitary norms of Russia pits without sealing the bottom are allowed if the daily volume of effluents does not exceed 1 m 3.

In all other cases, a sealed underground reservoir is equipped.

According to the materials of manufacture

For the construction of the construction of the drain pit, you can use the following materials:

• ceramic brick;
• concrete (in the manufacture of a monolithic structure);
• waste tractor tires;
• plastic;
• wood.

For do-it-yourself drain pits, concrete rings are the least suitable option. Construction equipment is required for their installation - manually heavy products cannot be handled.

• The pit consists of two chambers connected at the top by an overflow.
• The first chamber is sealed, the second is filtering.
• Drains (undivided) come from the house to the first sealed chamber, where they are mechanically separated, that is, they are simply settled. Solid inclusions sink to the bottom, and relatively pure water overflows into the second chamber.
• From the second chamber, water is filtered into the soil.
• Waste that accumulates in the first chamber should be pumped out periodically.

Advice! To drain hole could be cleaned less often, it is recommended to use special biological products. Bacteria recycle organic matter, reducing the amount of solid waste.

Construction planning

Before you make a drain pit, you should draw up a construction plan. It is necessary to determine the type of structure, choose the place of construction and determine the required volume of tanks.

How to determine the volume of the drain pit?

The main indicator on which the volume of the drain pit will depend is the intensity of use of a residential facility. It is clear that a larger pit is needed for a house than for a summer residence.

Advice! Of course, it is better to determine the volume of effluents individually, but there are also generally accepted norms. So, for a family of three people permanently residing in the house, a pit with a capacity of 6 cubic meters should be built.

When determining the volume of the tank, the following factors should be taken into account:

• Availability of sewer services.
• The volume that sewage equipment can pump out at a time.

Where is the drain hole located?

• Soil water should lie deep enough on the site, since the minimum depth of the pit is two meters.
• If there is a source of drinking water nearby, then a pit should be placed at a distance of at least 30 meters from it.
• The cesspool cannot be placed on a slope.
• Provision should be made for the availability of free passages for servicing the pit.
• You can not have a hole next to the house and the fence of the neighboring area. The minimum distance to housing is five meters.

In a word, it is quite difficult to choose a place for construction, especially if the site is already equipped. However, you cannot deviate from the above rules.

The choice of material for construction

For the construction of a sealed pit, the following materials are used:

• Concrete solution. A formwork is being built into which the solution is poured. The thickness of the walls and the bottom should be at least 7 cm, it is advisable to reinforce with a steel mesh.
• Plastic containers. This is the least labor intensive option. A pit is being prepared, in which a finished plastic container is installed.

Advice! To exclude the possibility of deformation of containers under the action of soil pressure, as well as its floating up during spring floods, it is recommended to concret the walls and bottom of the pit. When concreting the bottom, special fastening loops are laid, to which the plastic tank is tied with polymer belts.

• concrete rings.
• Ceramic brick.

When choosing the last two options, you have to carry out additional measures to seal the seams. To do this, the brickwork (or the joints between the rings) is treated with mortar from the inside, the bottom of the pit is concreted.

Additionally, from the inside, the walls are covered with a solution of bitumen, and from the outside they are covered with a thick (20 cm) layer of greasy clay. And what is the best way to overlay the drain pit if a filtering version of the treatment plant is being built? There are no fewer options here. Great for:

• Brick. The walls should be laid out so that between the rows there are five-centimeter gaps arranged in a checkerboard pattern.
• Reinforced concrete rings. Manufacturers specially produce rings for the construction of drainage wells, they are perforated. If it was not possible to buy such rings, holes in solid products can be made independently using a perforator.
• Old car tires. From this improvised material, you can easily assemble a drainage well. Tires are stacked one above the other, having previously cut off the lower rim on each of them.
• Old plastic or metal barrels. For the construction of the pit, a barrel without a bottom is used, while a number of holes are made in its lower part for better water filtration.

Stages of construction of a drain pit

Let's consider how to properly make a drain pit, provided that the work is done independently:

• Construction begins with the preparation of a pit and trenches for laying a supply pipeline.
• The pit should have a greater depth than the planned depth of the drain pit, since a drainage cushion is arranged at its bottom.
• The drainage cushion is made by pouring a layer of sand and gravel, each layer is qualitatively compacted.
• If the pit is airtight, then the height of the layers can be 10-15 cm. Either a ready-made reinforced concrete slab should be placed on top of the drainage pillow, or a concrete screed should be made.
• If a filter pit is being built, then the crushed stone layer should be at least 20 cm so that the drains are better cleaned and the bottom does not silt longer.
• Next, the walls of the tank are strengthened, that is, brickwork is performed, concrete rings or plastic containers are installed, depending on the chosen construction material.
• If a sealed tank is being built, then after the walls are strengthened, they are waterproofed.
• At this stage, the connection of the supply pipeline to the receiving tank is also carried out. The connection of the pipe with the tank must be tight, but not rigid, so that it does not collapse under the action of soil movements. It is convenient to use rubber couplings.

• At a distance of about 40 cm from the surface of the earth, an overlap for the pit is arranged. As a rule, a finished reinforced concrete slab with a hole for a hatch is used as a floor. If desired, such a slab can be cast independently, having previously constructed the formwork.
• Alternatively, thick boards can be used to build the floor, but in this case, it will turn out to be less durable.
• A hatch must be made in the ceiling to check the filling of the pit and pump out its contents.
• It is advisable to install on the cover and the ventilation pipe. Indeed, in the process of decomposition of waste, various gases are formed, including methane, which is explosive. Therefore, it is better to provide for the possibility of ventilation.
• From above, the overlap can be covered with soil. The soil must be filled with a mound to prevent rainwater from flowing into the pit.

So, if you plan to arrange local sewerage, the construction of a drain pit is one of the simplest, but at the same time convenient and practical options. It does not hurt for beginners in the construction business to visually see how to make a drain pit - a video describing the stages of work can be found on construction sites.

The choice of a cesspool as a reservoir for sewage allows significant savings in construction, but can lead to the formation of many serious problems. This and bad smell on the site, and contamination of groundwater, and skirmishes with neighbors. Therefore, before you make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands, you should carefully study this issue and understand how reasonable such a decision will be.

Source domvdom.com

Types and materials for manufacturing

For the collection and disposal of liquid household waste, it is difficult to imagine something simpler than a drain hole dug in the ground. This is the oldest sewer structure used by people to equip toilets. The liquid sewage that got into it was partially absorbed into the soil, and the remnants not processed by bacteria accumulated. The filled pit was dug in, and the toilet was transferred to another place.

With modern requirements for comfort, this option has lost its relevance and is occasionally used only on summer cottages with seasonal accommodation. Today, the question of how to make a cesspool is being solved in accordance with the multiply increased volume of wastewater, which is collected all year round from several points: kitchen, toilet, bathroom, laundry room, home sauna, etc.

Of course, a small depression in the ground is not enough to collect them. A volumetric storage with reliable walls is needed, into which the pipe is led out of the house.

Source lanshaft.com

Types of structures

According to the method of waste disposal, these facilities are divided into 2 types: sealed storage tanks and filter wells. Before you make a drain pit, you need to decide on its design:

• In sealed structures, sewage simply accumulates, is periodically pumped out by sewage equipment and transported to treatment facilities or in designated areas. Such structures can be mounted in any soil and at any level. ground water. Their operation is associated with some inconveniences: you need to constantly monitor the filling level of the tank and pump out in a timely manner.
• The filtering structures do not have a bottom as such, and often holes are made in the walls. Through them, part of the effluent leaves the well, is filtered through a layer of sand and gravel backfill and seeps into the ground. With an equal volume with a hermetic type structure, they fill up more slowly, so pumping is not required so often.

Source kanalizaciya1.ru

When choosing one or another type, first of all you need to find out at what distance from the surface of the earth the upper level of groundwater is located on the site. If it is less than 100 cm from it to the bottom of the well, then it is impossible to arrange a filtering structure, as this threatens to pollute the soil and groundwater. It will not "work" in clay or rocky soils that do not allow water to pass through.

It is also worth calculating the approximate volume of stocks for a certain period of time. If it is small, the advantage should be given to a sealed container. Especially if the site is small and place a water well on it, fruit trees and other plantings at a safe distance from the cesspool is impossible.

Materials for the device

Since it is correct to make a drain pit in a private house means to ensure its long service life without reducing its performance, the material for its device must be chosen resistant to moisture and soil pressure. Therefore, most often it is built of red brick, concrete rings or monolithic reinforced concrete.

Source: remontik.org

On our website you can get acquainted with the most - from construction companies presented at the exhibition of houses "Low-rise Country".

Depending on the type of structure chosen, the walls are made solid or perforated:

• In the case of bricks, masonry is carried out with holes in half a brick;
• In concrete rings, holes are made using a puncher or special perforated products are bought;
• To ensure filtering through monolithic concrete walls, in the process of pouring the solution into the formwork, pipe trimmings are laid.

You can also purchase ready-made metal or plastic containers. They are produced specifically for this purpose and have a hatch with a lid, as well as holes for mounting drain pipes. Their use greatly simplifies the task of how to make a sewer in a private house with your own hands. cesspool, since such containers, with good strength, are light in weight, do not require sealing work.

Source ukrhimplast.com

A small volume of relatively clean wastewater can be discharged into a pit, the walls of which are made of car tires. This is an almost free option for its arrangement, often used in the construction of free-standing baths.

Autonomous sewerage device with a cesspool

Even such a simple task how to make a drain hole in a private house with your own hands, you need to decide wisely, having made a plan in advance and correctly choosing a place for it. This is very important, as mistakes made during planning can result in a broken system or contamination of groundwater.

Design

There are norms that determine the minimum distance from the cesspool to the objects located on the site:

• from the house - 5 meters;
• from the border with a neighboring site - 1 meter;
• from the road - 5 meters;
• from a drinking well - 25 meters in the case of a sealed container and 50 meters with a filter well;
• from a deep well - 25 meters;
• from a natural reservoir - 30 meters;
• from fruit plantations - 3 meters.

Source strojdvor.ru

On our website you can find contacts of construction companies that. You can directly communicate with representatives by visiting the exhibition of houses "Low-Rise Country".

You should also take into account the terrain of the site. When deciding how to properly make a cesspool in a private house, one cannot choose lowlands and depressions for it, since in such places groundwater is located close to the surface. In the spring, during the melting of snow and floods, the tank will overflow, and its contents will infect groundwater.

It is also necessary to think over the method of cleaning the structure. If it is pumped out by a sewage truck, there should be free access to it.

When calculating the required volume, various factors are taken into account:

• the number of permanent residents;
• seasonality of living in the house;
• number of taps that consume water household appliances, the presence of a bath, etc.

Mounting

Regardless of the type of structure, a foundation pit is first dug for it. It is better to do this with the help of technology, since the volume of soil will be large.

Video description

You can’t do without special equipment in the case of complex rocky soils. You can verify this by watching the video:

When installing a sealed storage pit, the dimensions of the pit are only slightly larger than its parameters for ease of installation. If a filtering well is planned, then from its outer walls to the walls of the pit it is necessary to leave about 20 cm of free space around the entire perimeter for filtering backfill.

Further instructions on how to properly make a cesspool in a private house with your own hands depend on the type of construction. If a concrete or brick structure is selected, the algorithm will be as follows:

• the bottom of the pit is rammed and covered with rubble, which is also rammed;
• if it is necessary to ensure tightness, then a concrete screed 10-15 cm thick is arranged on a crushed stone pillow;
• after drying, the screeds erect the walls of the drive up to ground level or slightly higher;
• dig a trench from the pit to the point where the sewer exits from the house. Before making a drain in a private house, a slope of the bottom of the trench is formed, which will ensure the transportation of sewage through pipes by gravity. For this, a 2-3 cm drop in level per linear meter is sufficient;
• sewer pipes are laid in the trench, a hole is punched in the wall of the storage tank and the end of the pipe is brought out into it;

Video description

Read more this stage of installation outdoor sewerage shown in the video:

• test the pipeline, letting water through it. If there is no leak, the trench is buried;
• all joints, if required by the design, are sealed;
• perform backfilling of the soil in the gap between the earthen and erected walls;
• close the container with a lid with a hatch;
• remove from the ceiling vertical ventilation pipe 100 mm diameter with a deflector on top to vent gases and avoid the appearance of bad smell.

The instruction on how to properly make a cesspool from a finished container looks much simpler. It is simply installed in a pit on a sand cushion, taken out drain pipe into the finished hole and fall asleep.

Source strport.ru

The most popular version of a cesspool device is its assembly from concrete rings with a diameter of 1-1.5 meters. They are different heights, monolithic or with holes in the walls, with a ready-made sealed bottom, eliminating the need to make a screed and seal the bottom seam.

If tightness is not relevant, the rings are simply stacked on top of each other and stapled to prevent shifting. Otherwise, at the joints before installing each next ring, cement mortar, and after the installation is completed, they are smeared from the inside liquid glass or other sealant.

close up the hole concrete slab covers with a hole for the cover. It can be rectangular or round, the same diameter as the rings.

Video description

Video tutorial on building a cesspool without a bottom:

Operation features

For easy and hassle-free use autonomous sewerage, it is not enough to know how to make a drain hole in a private house. You need to use it correctly. Just pumping it out as it fills up is not enough, since over time the bottom and walls of the structure silt up and become covered with fatty deposits. Which is especially undesirable for filter-type accumulators, since water from them ceases to seep into the ground. Yes, and the likelihood of an unpleasant odor in this situation is greatly increased.

This problem is solved with the help of special preparations with live bacteria that process sewage. Is it powder or liquid formulations, which are added to the pit according to the instructions. As a rule, they are poured through the toilet.

Note! Carefully study the instructions for compatibility of the drug with household chemicals. Some laundry detergents and other chemicals are harmful to bacteria.

Source i.ytimg.com

Old deposits in the pit can only be removed mechanically, scraping them from the bottom and walls or knocking them down with a powerful pressure of water.

Conclusion

If you need to quickly and relatively inexpensively mount an autonomous sewer system, then there is nothing better and easier than making a cesspool in a private house. This ancient structure works perfectly even in modern realities, if its volume is correctly determined, a suitable place is chosen and all installation work is correctly performed.

For the improvement of a private house, cottages and any other residential buildings, the equipment of drainage and sewage systems is considered the main thing. An integral element of waste disposal is precisely the drain pit, the construction of which can be done independently.

For the improvement of a private house, cottages and any other residential buildings, the equipment of drainage and sewage systems is considered the main thing. An integral element of waste disposal is precisely the drain pit, the construction of which can be done independently. In this article, we will talk in detail about the features of building drain pits, determine the main criteria for choosing a place for their creation, and also get acquainted with the basic requirements for this structure on the site.

How to choose the right place for building a drain pit with your own hands
Do-it-yourself construction of a drain pit begins with the choice of a place for the future structure. In order for waste disposal to be as convenient, safe and of high quality as possible, it is necessary to take into account the following nuances:

• landscape type;
• placement of groundwater;
• location of wells nearby drinking water;
• remoteness from surrounding buildings at least 6 meters;
• from the drain pit to the fence must be at least 2 meters, etc.

Before the beginning construction works, it is very important to get acquainted with the nature of the soil on the ground, as well as accurately determine the occurrence of groundwater, since the distance from the bottom of the pit to them should be more than 1 meter. When determining the territory for the drain pit, it is very important to take into account all sanitary standards so that harmful, toxic fumes do not harm either the homeowners or others.

Determination of the main parameters of the drain pit. Depth and Diameter
After choosing a suitable place for a cesspool, you should determine its main parameters. The volume, depth and diameter of the structure for this purpose is guided by the following criteria:

• the main material used in the work;
• the number of residents in the house;
• construction type.

Often the choice of consumers stops at a septic tank made of plastic cups. This means that the volume of the drain pit is affected by the number of containers used. The septic tank installation technique requires free space on the sides of the structure (approximately 25-30 cm), which should be covered with earth or clay. In this case, you should pay attention to the condition of the earthen cushion on which plastic vessels will be installed. It is very important that one of the tanks is located above the other, due to which the drains will move freely in the right direction.

For example, for drain pits with concrete rings inside, experts recommend preparing an ellipse-type pit, with a diameter of 1.5 - 1.7 m.

For drain pits made of brick or concrete, in the process of determining its main parameters, the volume occupied by the material must be taken into account.

The second criterion by which the dimensions of the drain pit are calculated is the number of people living in the house. The indicators of the volume of water that one person uses per day on average are taken into account. Given these indicators, it is still worth taking all the numbers with a margin. So, the formula for calculating the volume of the drain pit: the indicators of depth, width and length are multiplied by each other. As for the depth of such a structure, it should not be less than 180 cm.

The dimensions of the drain pits directly depend on the type of construction chosen. The table highlights the main ones.

Types of drain pits by design features

Absorbing pits without a bottom	Suitable for use in places with a daily waste volume of not more than 1 cubic meter. More suitable for summer use. Differs in installation economy.
Sealed containers	The safest type for the environment. The installation of such drain pits requires easy access to the construction of sewage equipment.
Storage septic tanks	We have already mentioned this type above. Differs in comfort and manufacturability in use on any private sites. There are single-chamber and multi-chamber. They require regular use of biological products to combat sewage.

Features of the drain pit for summer use
The presence of a sewerage system is simply necessary to drain waste from a sauna, bath, shower, toilet, kitchen, etc. Drainage pits are classified not only relatively design features, as well as seasonal characteristics. In addition, there is also a third criterion - this is the type of material used for construction. So, according to seasonal characteristics, drain pits are distinguished mainly for summer use and all-weather structures. Summer-type structures are built from improvised materials, such as:

• wooden planks;
• old car tires;
• plastic and metal barrels etc.

Do-it-yourself drain pit made of wooden tires
For the equipment of a string pit for seasonal use, such material as wood is perfect. For beginners in construction work, the process of mounting and installing from boards will not be as difficult as with other materials. So, for the construction of a summer cesspool, the following materials and tools should be prepared:

• digging shovel;
• wooden boards and nails;
• tape measure, building level;
• wooden supports (pillars);
• metal pipes (as stiffeners);
• crushed stone;
• moisture resistant polymeric materials;
• a hammer;
• grinder, etc.

It should be borne in mind that wood absorbs moisture well, even when processing the material with moisture-resistant agents, this type of drain structure will not last more than 10 years.

Step 1 We prepare the pit using a shovel.

Step 2. We create formwork from boards according to the intended dimensions (height is about 1.5 m);

Step 3. Install the supports ( wooden bars) and connect them with downed wooden shields;

Step 4. We strengthen the structure with spacers;

Step 5 metal pipes provide stiffener designs.

Step 6. Cover the hole.

As a polymeric material, as an additional protection against moisture, professionals recommend the use of polyurethane foam.

Features of a do-it-yourself drain pit for all-weather use
To create drain pits for all-weather use with their own hands, materials such as brick, concrete rings, etc. are used. Such structures differ from temporary ones in depth, shelf life, wastewater absorption volume, etc. All-weather cesspools suggest the presence of an inspection hatch. Next, we will consider the processes of building a brick drain pit and creating a structure from concrete rings, we will analyze in more detail the advantages and disadvantages of each of the options.

Do-it-yourself features of a drain pit made of concrete rings
Drainage pits made of concrete rings are a reliable structure that, when correct installation can last over a century. The process of working on such a design requires the master to work with welding machine. A number of advantages of cesspools made of concrete rings include:

• poison resistance, chemical attack stock substances;
• long service life;
• water resistance of concrete material;
• placement of groundwater, for a concrete structure, practically does not matter.

The disadvantages of this type of cesspools include the fact that working with the structure requires the use of special equipment. This series can be supplemented by the fact that this work process is labor intensive and has an increased level of pollution.

Drainage pits made of concrete rings are divided into two types. The first are structures with a bottom, the second are pits without a bottom. An all-weather, and actually harmless option, is considered to be a design with a bottom, since in this case there is no unpleasant smell, no danger to the environment, and as a result, other characteristic functional shortcomings.

According to the above criteria for choosing a place for construction, we determine the territory, after which we can proceed to the choice of the main material - concrete rings. It is best to use ready-made rings, which can be ordered from specialized suppliers. At this stage, it is worth immediately taking care of the equipment (crane), with the help of which the concrete rings will be placed in the pit of the stock structure.

As a rule, construction work begins with the preparation of the bottom of the pit. At this stage, a concrete solution is used. To prepare the filling mass, we use 1 part of cement and 6 parts of crushed stone. The following installation procedures should be continued after the complete drying of this layer (not earlier than after 7 days).

After the bottom has completely dried, it is possible to install concrete rings, the seams of which must be treated with liquid glass, thus ensuring complete insulation of the structure.

It is worth paying attention to the type of concrete rings, as they come with and without a lock. The second type during the installation process is usually strengthened with metal brackets. A special overlap is installed on the last ring, which has a special place under the cover of the drain pit, a hatch.

Features of a do-it-yourself brick drain pit
Drainage pits made of bricks, as well as from concrete rings, can be either with or without a bottom. It's best to take care of it anyway. Brick structures of this type are distinguished by the following number of pros and cons:

• environmental Safety;
• ease of installation and operation;
• does not depend on the level of groundwater and the type of land cover;
• the presence of an unpleasant odor;
• not a long service life;
• frequency of effluent pumping, etc.

Work on this type of drain pit requires considerable time and physical costs, and consists of the following steps.

• Choosing a building site.
• Calculation of the dimensions of the pit.
• Preparation of tools and materials.
• Pit dig.
• Bottom preparation.
• Walling.
• Interior decoration pits.
• Cover installation.

To work with brick material and prepare a site for a cesspool, you will need: bayonet and shovel shovels; a container for mixing mortar, buckets, trowels, construction measuring tools, pegs and a rope for fencing the territory.

After the foundation pit is dug to the desired depth and the planned dimensions, you need to take care of the walls (level them and eliminate collapses). Next, you can do the bottom, it should be poured under a slope. After the base has dried, formwork is prepared for the construction of walls, then we can proceed to brickwork. Experts repeatedly remind about an additional layer of waterproofing for bricks. Bitumen of different types (modified, or bituminous mastic) is used as protective layers.

Creating a cesspool with your own hands requires a reliable, durable floor. For this purpose, apply reinforced concrete structures because they are able to withstand heavy loads. according to safety rules, hatches should cover the drain holes on the sides by more than 30 cm. It is worth taking care of the hole in the hatch for convenient pumping of wastewater.

How to make a drain hole on your site
The presence of a cesspool facility on the farm is undoubtedly an important, necessary and, moreover, very important moment. In order to answer the question of how to make a drain pit on your site, you should read some tips from experienced professionals.

Tip 1. Before starting construction work, read the sanitary standards in detail and choose the right place, any violations can lead to administrative penalties and fines.

Tip 2. Use only quality materials to neutralize the formation of harmful, poisonous fumes and odors.

Tip 3. Consult with specialists on the issue of pumping wastewater, choose one of the methods (pump, sewage equipment, etc.), which will be the most convenient and efficient in your area.

Tip 4. In progress installation work do not forget about sealing and insulating joints and seams.

Tip 5. For durability, environmental friendliness and reliability of drain pits, install ready-made, sealed septic tanks that will simplify even the process of neutralizing wastewater.

For additional information on the topic, watch the video:

Do you have a private house or a cottage outside the city? Do you have to take out a full bucket of water from under the sink every time? Stop suffering! Do-it-yourself water drain in the house! It is quite real and quite simple.

Features of the sewerage system in a private house

To do this, you will need to be patient and the following materials: pencil, tape measure, hacksaw, reinforced concrete rings, sewer pipe, rubber pads, concrete slabs, cement, sand, gravel, planks, shovel and gloves.

sewerage scheme

Preparatory work

And so let's get started.

First, you need to determine where the wastewater will be collected. This place is usually where is going natural slope of the area. And yet, if you have drinking water on the site in a well or in a well, you must prevent the ingress of sewage there. Secondly, it is necessary to draw a draft sewerage scheme (your private house must have a draft, use it), measure and compile a list of necessary materials and components for work.

Measure with maximum accuracy, taking into account every detail, so that you do not have to run to the store many times.

Are the materials ready? We start installation work.

Internal sewerage

First, we lay the pipes inside the room. It is better to take PVC material, because it is easier to work with. It is compatible with other building materials, it is lightweight, bends well, holds cement and joins quickly.

Laying sewer pipes

Saw it with a hacksaw for metal at an angle of 90 degrees.

We connect the short parts of the structure at each joint, inserting rubber gaskets that will ensure tightness. Now we connect all the elements. We take toilet pipes. They should be large in diameter (one hundred millimeters).

This is necessary in order not to burden the drain. The remaining pipes should have a diameter of approximately 50-75 mm, water will flow through them quickly enough.

Cesspool

We install pipes with a slope of 2-5 mm per meter of pipe to simplify the drainage of water.

We take the pipe out of the house at a depth of about one to two meters, depending on how deep the earth freezes, and then, with a slope of 5 mm per linear meter, we introduce it into the sewer well.

Now check if the water flows well through them.

External sewerage

Here we come to the cesspool. It can be of several types and classifications, with or without a bottom, respectively ecological or polluting the environment.

You can use a pit without a bottom only if the flow volume is small (within 1 cubic meter per day) and if drinking water points are no closer than 50 meters from it.

But if you want to protect yourself from fines and criminal liability, then it is better to make an airtight cesspool.

It is good because it eliminates problems, because they are pumped out with the help of professionals and special equipment. But this "pleasure" costs money.

Overflow sewerage in a private house

You can also build a sewer to a private house with your own hands by processing wastewater, that is, a septic tank. In order to make a three-chamber septic tank, you must follow a few rules:

A place for a septic tank is chosen lower than drinking water, at a distance of at least 50 m from the well.

Single chamber septic tank

• The fence must be at least two meters away.
• There must be a place for the entry of sewage equipment.
• Dig a hole with a volume greater than 3 norms of drains per day.
• Fill the bottom with a concrete pad 15-20 cm so that water does not seep into the ground.
• For walls, you can use reinforced concrete rings, ready-made plastic structures, or lay them yourself out of bricks.
• At the end of the laying of the walls, carefully seal all the seams.
• Twice finish the inside of the walls of the well with bitumen.
• By the same principle, make a second chamber, connecting them together.
• The third chamber will be the same, only without the bottom.

  About 50 cm of sand and gravel are sprinkled at the bottom of the well to filter the water.

Ready. Now draining water is not a problem for you.

Your private home can have any of the three forms of sewerage offered by us. You only need to choose the most suitable option for your home and do it yourself.

How to properly dig a septic tank

1. Choosing a pit site for a cesspool
2. Determination of the volume of the septic tank to calculate the depth
3. How to dig a septic tank: sequence
4. Advantages and disadvantages of septic tanks

Visiting the breath or living in it does not mean that family members have to give up minimal comfort.

Outside the city limits, you can also use cold and hot water and a bathroom if you dig on site.

The most popular solution to the problem of removing wastewater and impurities in suburban area is the excavation of septic tanks and their further placement. This setting is simple, so every home user can easily help this work with professionals.

Choosing a place for a cesspool

First you need to choose the right place to create a vacuum cleaner, and you need to consider several shades:

• distance from residential building;
• distance from good or good;
• local terrain characteristics and soil type;
• availability of opportunities for access to wastewater treatment.

Sanitary standards and building codes regulate how and where to properly dig a septic tank on the site and the minimum distance from it to objects of various values, including residential buildings and sources of drinking water (for more information, "cartographers - sanitary standards for distance from home, wells and holes")).

The reason for the need to comply with these requirements is that even with high-quality waterproofing of a septic tank, it is difficult to ensure absolute tightness. treatment plant and the possibility of penetration into the sewer system.

Therefore, groundwater pollution can occur and if drinking water (well) is in place, there will be a serious public health hazard.
According to regulations, the pit must be located at least 30 meters from the well, provided that the clay floors are in place and if the sand floor is at least 50 meters in length.

We can understand the desire of holiday home owners to remove the septic tank from the residence, since the presence of a settler is the cause of an unpleasant smell in the territory.

Determination of the volume of a septic tank to calculate the depth

When calculating the volume of a septic tank, it should be assumed that the toilet container must be spacious. Therefore, it can be cleaned much less often. Prior to this, the norm is 0.5 cubic meters per person living in the house.

However, with the advent dishwashers, washing machines and other household appliances associated with sewerage, this amount of wastewater is clearly not enough.

Thus, before calculating the volume of a septic tank, it is necessary to determine the number of family members or guests who regularly visit or stay in the house.

When calculating the volume of a septic tank for a private house, it is necessary to know how many cubic meters of waste are taken per van call, since the payment is made according to the number of pedestrians.

How to dig a septic tank: sequence

After calculating the cesspool, the procedure for distributing treatment facilities begins.

It consists of several stages:

• excavated cave;
• Sealing the bottom with the subsequent application of a specific solution;
• cave wall decoration;
• molding and assembly of panels;
• dumping of elements of the sewer system.

First stage- digging a trench under the pit.

The chosen place is cleared of vegetation and fenced. If you are using hooks or other similar items, think about the size of the septic tank and proceed with the dump.

The top layer of soil is stored near the location of the settlement. Until the planned depth of the septic tank is reached.

Second phase This involves compacting the bottom of the cave for subsequent overflow with a specific solution.

If the floor is sandblasted, pour a layer of crushed stone on the bottom and compact it several times. For a solution, use crushed stone, cement and sand in a ratio of 6: 1: 4.
Add water until the mixture reaches the desired density.

The prepared solution is poured on the bottom of the dish, then leveled and allowed to dry for approximately one week. When performing work when heated, the concrete must be wet with water, otherwise the top layer will dry out prematurely and crack.

The bottom of the excavation is made with a slope in the direction to which the waste will approach.

The depth of the septic tank should not exceed 3 meters, otherwise high-quality cleaning of the tank will be impossible.
Sanitary regulations are prohibited for the supply of a cleaning plant without concrete floors, unless the daily volume of wastewater in the house does not exceed one cubic meter.

The fact is that with such a small amount of impurities, the bacteria living in the soil can naturally clean up the drains before they penetrate the groundwater table.

Third stage- construction of the walls of the pit.

This work begins at the end of the bottom.

How to make a drainage pit: design requirements and do-it-yourself installation example

You can buy plastic containers or ready-made concrete rings designed to accommodate septic tanks or brick walls with brick.

When choosing the option of constructing concrete ring rings, well, as in the figure, lifting equipment must be attached, since the weight of one concrete reaches 400 kilograms.

With the help of a crane, the rings are placed one above the other so that the walls of the repository are formed. In this case round form the cave is the most optimal, since it is much more difficult to pump dirt from the corners of a square tank.

Fourth phase- casting and assembly of plates. When changing a septic tank, forced ventilation is required, for which a plastic tube is used. This must be done outside the city.

The top of the tank is covered with a plate, for which it is made visible and covered with a concrete lid. It provides a valve for sewage.

Like a stainless mold floor covering, it is convenient to use corrugated boards - the end cover will provide the necessary strength and rigidity.

Fifth phase- Pipes for transporting pipes from home.

As a rule, in the construction of such a pipeline, we use PVC pipes. They are located in pre-excavated ditches at a certain angle so that the runoff moves with weight.

Outside the concrete rings of the store are well covered with a layer of greasy clay and spill over the cave, and the soil remains after bathing.

Advantages and disadvantages of septic tanks

Before starting the drive system, it is necessary not only to learn how to do this, but also to determine the depth of the septic tank and to what extent.

It also does not contain information about the advantages and disadvantages of this option for wastewater and wastewater disposal.

Among the positive aspects of the device storage device is the ease of installation and low construction cost.

Among the shortcomings can be noted:

• risk of contamination of soil and water in neighboring sources;
• the presence of an unpleasant odor in the area;
• expenses for Maintenance as it will be necessary to apply for waste disposal.